Has anyone tried Mako quick weights instead of trim pockets?
Adding weights to the back of backplate setup
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Thise look very interesting, but at just 1.6#, not really helpful (for me)....
Julius SCHMIDT
Contributor
Nah but I've seen standard belt weights rigged with heavy bungee for quick fitting
to webbing, felt like they would stay there under stress too
Also seen some standard weights with a diagonal cut from the corner through to each belt loop
to webbing, felt like they would stay there under stress too
Also seen some standard weights with a diagonal cut from the corner through to each belt loop
RobPNW
Contributor
Has anyone used two backplates on their cold water kit? In order to keep from having to reroute the webbing, I'm taking about affixing a 2nd steel plate to the assembled core kit. IOW, the already threaded webbing would basically be sandwiched between the inner and outer plate. If both plates had the same hole structure and both were steel, the cam bands should have enough length to go through both and it would be good for a combined 10lbs of distributed weight. Then, if you go on travel, you could take off the outer plate and go. Any thoughts? This would allow you to get the same weight as one thick plate, but also be able to ditch half of the weight when going on travel.
Doubling up on backplates is a possibility to add ballast but depending on the situation may not be the most cost effective way to do it. There was a recent suggestion by the maker of the freedom plate on a different thread that one can take two thinner steel plates and weld them together to get a heavier plate. There is also the Toddy style sidemount rig where one sandwiches a wing between two plates.
One does not need to thread/unthread the harness to attach 2 plates. Book screws, zipties, or other fasteners can be used to attach the extra plate to the back of the primary plate with the harness.
It should be noted that Mares and Subgravity (possibly others too) both market a thicker steel plate (6mm/10lbs) as an option for to build a heavier rig. It may be more versatile to buy a thicker steel plate as one's primary system and then build out an aluminum plate for travel.
-Z
One does not need to thread/unthread the harness to attach 2 plates. Book screws, zipties, or other fasteners can be used to attach the extra plate to the back of the primary plate with the harness.
It should be noted that Mares and Subgravity (possibly others too) both market a thicker steel plate (6mm/10lbs) as an option for to build a heavier rig. It may be more versatile to buy a thicker steel plate as one's primary system and then build out an aluminum plate for travel.
-Z
RobPNW
Contributor
If you look at my post, I wouldn't be unthreading and threading the the plates. The front plate would be threaded and set up. The back plate would be attached to the threaded front plate using a method of choice. The cam bands would be threaded through both. Then if I go on travel, I ditch the back plate and rethread the cam bands. Maybe that would put too much stress on the webbing? I;m not super worried about going on travel with a SS plate. It should only add about 2-3lbs over an aluminum plate. I haven't done any of this. Just thinking out loud here and listening to peoples' opinions...
LanceRiley
Contributor
Deflate it a bit
I forget if I already posted this link upthread or not: XS Scuba V Weight Pouch -- on a regular plate it'll fit in the groove and it should give you about as much weight, or more, as a 2nd steel plate. If your plate has holes around the perimeter, you may be able to place 2 more of those along the sides. Three of them plus a bag of lead shot will probably still be cheaper than another steel plate.
Personally I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with having all that weight non-dumpable, and I can swim holding two 10lb diving bricks (for a little while anyway).
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