Congratulations @raftingtigger ! Now that you're retired, you'll be asking yourself when did you find time to go to work.
To the rest of you guys, what the heck are we talking about? I lost track of the items being produced and tested.
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To the rest of you guys, what the heck are we talking about? I lost track of the items being produced and tested.
hotpocketdeath
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Must_dash
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On an aside... A newbie 3Der. I bought an Ender 3v2 and just starting out.
What is the best way to get bed adhesion...
What is the best way to get bed adhesion...
hotpocketdeath
Registered
There's a few ways to do it.
PEI bed - Generally, you can buy a sheet specific to your printer that has PEI layer. Example Textured PEI Sheet
Glue stick - Elmer's washable glue stick is popular Elmer's Glue Stick
Glue paste (My personal favorite) - I buy the liquid and mix 50/50 distilled water. This lets me wipe it onto a heated bed with a sponge. The heat will dry it up leaving a very thin, sticky layer. I get quite a few prints before I need to re-apply and can be washed off periodically. Elmer's liquid Glue
Scotch Tape - Some people use Painters tape. I personally don't care for this method.
Print Bed specific glues - You would have to search for these, but they are more expensive
Kapton Tape - I've heard this stuff works really well, but tricky to apply the first time. You would need to get some big enough to cover the entire bed sheet. Example Kapton Tape But I've seen it come in roles.
And yet another
Hair Spray
It also depends on what you're printing with. I've never had an issue with PLA and the stock bed, I just wash it off with a rag and some alcohol prior to printing (like maybe every 3 prints). Pops right off. PETG sticks really bad (for me) so I'll wipe it down with alcohol and then a layer of elmer's glue. With elmer's it'll pop right off.
Mine is the plain Jane black stock Ender 3 bed.
Or as is repeated ad nauseam - level the bed... Stray wind currents also caused my prints to lift, but in almost every other case if I tweak the level it would stick. PETG is a little harder, there I use glue sticks.
I bought 3 years ago an Ender-3. I removed the plastic bed and added a 3 mm thick glass bed. I use hair spray for adhesion, but I guess, the most important part was the enclosure (my enclosure has a window to look what the printer is doing). Besides, for ABS parts, I use skirt composed of 8 perimeters and 2 layers. this helps a lot. I do not print PLA. I only print PETG, ABS and FLEX (Shore 98).
So I decided to jump on the muffler bandwagon. First attempt at designing similar to what would be used for noise suppression in other applications resulted in some success. I'm working on a new design now though that I hope will be more effective.
Base noise level for venting tank measured around 76dB.
Metal, commercial tank muffler reads ~54dB at ~1/8 turn open (getting louder as it is opened more, that's about the volume I typically open it to when working in my garage)..
Plastic muffler reads ~67dB at ~1/8 turn open (1/4 turn open as tank pressure dropped). An improvement, but I think I can do better by adding bleed holes and reducing the size of the hole at the end of the muffler (I'm going to replace the large opening with multiple small holes at the end).
Base noise level for venting tank measured around 76dB.
Metal, commercial tank muffler reads ~54dB at ~1/8 turn open (getting louder as it is opened more, that's about the volume I typically open it to when working in my garage)..
Plastic muffler reads ~67dB at ~1/8 turn open (1/4 turn open as tank pressure dropped). An improvement, but I think I can do better by adding bleed holes and reducing the size of the hole at the end of the muffler (I'm going to replace the large opening with multiple small holes at the end).
Although not 3D printed my plastic tank muffler attaches to a LP hose. Maybe something along those lines would mitigate the potential problems with high pressure and plastic parts.
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