A.B. Biller help SP 48 Paudak

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Central Fla

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Hi all,

I am trying to setup my SP 48 Biller and it did not come with instructions and I can not find instruction downloads at their website.

Most of it is straight forward except how to loop the cord around the gun.. (place the shaft in the channel and lock into trigger mech (band grooves up), shaft ring and eye past the tip of the gun, pull bands back underwater and place metal hooks in shaft cuts) Now it is obvious that below the trigger mechanism is the hook/release the cord gets wrapped around and it's obvious that a coiled wire around the shaft with an eye is one of the cords attachment point. What is not obvious is how to wrap the cord, is the small hole under the tip of the gun the tie point for the other end of the cord, What knot to use, does it matter what side of the gun the shaft eye is on ? Hand placement during shooting, my guess is that your hand has to be between the cord and the gun, it just appears that the line is well below any skin to hang or cause a problem. I use right hand on trigger. If I were to play with this I may be able to figure it out, but in asking you folks I might be able to make the first hunt a little smoother.

If someone has the time could you please put up some photos or description of how you rig your speargun.

Thanks
Central Fla
 
Central Fla:
Hi all,
What is not obvious is how to wrap the cord, is the small hole under the tip of the gun the tie point for the other end of the cord,

Yep, that's the hole! The rubber bungie goes on the end closest to the wood gun tip. You don't want the spear to drag the extra weight of the bungie through the water resulting in additional drag

DSC01534.jpg


Central Fla:
What knot to use,

Bolan knots are nice, but anything will do. Here's the picture of the spear end set up.

DSC01536.jpg



Central Fla:
does it matter what side of the gun the shaft eye is on ?

Not really, the line will lay which ever side you re-string the line up on. I like the right side, but again, doesn't really matter.

So the re-load sequence goes like this. Line is loose and hanging down free. Load and lock the shaft into the gun. Grab the line attached at the shaft ring and also the line attached at the gun muzzle together in the same hand. Slide your hand down the lines and loop it around the "hook release" on the trigger handle. Still holding the lines in your one hand come back up to the hook that is located under the muzzle. It should be too short to hook it on. Use your other hand and grab the line bungie and stretch it so you can now have enough length to hook it. When hooked, on the muzzle and tight the bungie should be stretched about 1/2" -3/4" from it normal relaxed length. Too tight might put additional tension on the trigger. The stretched bungie is to just easily hold the line in place so it doesn't slip off and unhook.

Central Fla:
Hand placement during shooting, my guess is that your hand has to be between the cord and the gun, it just appears that the line is well below any skin to hang or cause a problem. I use right hand on trigger.

Remember that underwater, the gun will be just slightly negative when loaded and bouyant when the spear is out so it's not heavy like holding it on land. Chad is a much better teacher for hunter spearing techniques than I am, so I'm hoping he will post up with some good advice for you. Just my own hand placement is, right hand on the trigger, left hand is on the gun butt.

Hope this helps.

P.S. By the way, you'll be cutting the line off your gun anyways after the 80th time that you have shot it, and then be freeshafting from then on.
 
CF,

Bowlines are the knots to use. http://www.iland.net/~jbritton/bowline.htm It will not slip but can always be untied.

Tie the short end of the line nearest the shock cord to the hole in the bottom of the muzzle. http://www.abbiller.com/tubingcord.html.

Now wrap the line down around the line drop retainer, (under the trigger), back up around the muzzle... and repeat the second wrap.

Now you are up to the slide ring and slide spring, which is the tricky part. You don't just tie it to the spring, or the line will be loose and fall off the line drop retainer. So you have to estimate the point about an inch to 1.5 inches down the line that you want to tie to the spring. Pinch and hold that point on the line. Now pull the trigger to release the line, without losing your pinched point on the line. Tie that point to the spring with another bowline knot.

Do not cut the excess line.

Now insert the spear again, making sure it's latched and the line drop retainer is locked.

Now wrap the line from the slide ring first. Make two wraps and if you have tied it right the line will come up about an inch short. Stretch the shock cord down onto the line drop retainer. If it's to tight start all over and back the knot up a little bit, making the cord a bit longer. Or make it a bit tighter if it's still a bit loose.

You don't want it too tight because the line drop retainer can bind your trigger.

Once you are sure the tension is right, go ahead and cut off the excess line. If it's nylon (black) burn the ends. If Kevlar it wont burn, so tie a short half hitch.

The rigging should have been done by the store where you bought it, along with the quick pointers on loading and firing.

Here's a link that might help some.
http://www.sptimes.com/2006/webspecials06/gb-spearfishing/
Click the links under the photo for the graphics and videos. Also provided is a link to FL spearfishing regulations and another spearfishing tips article from a few years back.

Happy hunting!

Chad
 
Johnoly was too quick for me!

I agree with all his explanations, except that monster knot!!
That's a lot of drag on the traveling end of the spear. Tie a nice tight bowline, like he pictured on the muzzle end of the gun, to keep it as streamlined as possible.
Biller also has a compact slide ring available and a faster line shaft called the Floridian spear.

Freeshafts are the fastest and most accurate of all, and can even be easy to learn with if you practice shooting underwater targets and easy fish like hogfish. If you try freeshafting always shoot down at the bottom. Also your gun will float if not weighted so practice diving your arm through the band after firing to keep it down with you.

Here's a good link to spearing regulations and fish ID. The Times link is dead.

Chad
 
pssst Chad fill him in on the quick load. If he's new it may help him for a quicker wrap underwater if he feels he needs to. For some reason I just cant seem to pull the trigger on a free shaft in my mind I picture it just swimming away with a $100.00 shaft and tip. I guess I'm not confident enough with my Aim.

I'm happy to see you here on this board to it would make it easier for one on one to ask you questions
 
Johnoly, Tom and Chad, Thank you, awesome!!! it explained everything. (Johnoly, thanks for taking the time for the pictures, I owe you one)

If you don't mind another question, what do you folks do for a quick shaft change underwater, I would think it might be prudent to just use fre-shaft in that situation unless some type of strong, low drag snap is available??


Again, thanks people, Lunch is on me!!

Excellent video Chad, I have much to learn still but that video was terrific. Do you have an instructional video/DVD for sale??


PS. Bowline = rabbit comes outa the hole, around the tree, and back in the hole, half hitch safety knot.
 
A lot of us has a shaft mounted to our gun, This shaft is usually a free shaft, there are several different types of holders on the market or you can make your own very easy. I just used a couple of ground lugs that you would find in a home breaker box the cost was about a couple of bucks. All you do is slide the shaft in and tighten it down with a small wing nut. My second shaft also serves as a kill spike if needed, Most of the gun makers has these holders
 
CF,

I have a lot of articles in the St Pete Times and Spearfishing Magazine that I use for reference in my spearfishing training, but no videos other than that Ocean Hunters link. I may pursue that with a lot of the footage I have now, and continue to tape.

Quiver shaft & light holders can be seen here. http://www.mobilescuba.com/Quiver.htm
Most of the big fish on my website were freeshafted. The Quiver does not have a screw down locking mechanism so it's blazing fast to reload. Your gun can carry 2 or 3 shafts and a light to help for retrieval or the initial shot.

Tom, if you have bottom and visibility there's no reason you can't freeshaft grouper & snapper. Give it a try, but not with your line shaft! Freeshafts are much less expensive simpler and faster.
I hate shooting line guns on scuba, unless on bottomless rigs or for pelagic fish.

Finally here's that regulations link. http://myfwc.com/marine/regulation.htm

Chad
 
Chad Carney:
CF,

I have a lot of articles in the St Pete Times and Spearfishing Magazine that I use for reference in my spearfishing training, but no videos other than that Ocean Hunters link. I may pursue that with a lot of the footage I have now, and continue to tape.

Quiver shaft & light holders can be seen here. http://www.mobilescuba.com/Quiver.htm
Most of the big fish on my website were freeshafted. The Quiver does not have a screw down locking mechanism so it's blazing fast to reload. Your gun can carry 2 or 3 shafts and a light to help for retrieval or the initial shot.

Tom, if you have bottom and visibility there's no reason you can't freeshaft grouper & snapper. Give it a try, but not with your line shaft! Freeshafts are much less expensive simpler and faster.
I hate shooting line guns on scuba, unless on bottomless rigs or for pelagic fish.

Finally here's that regulations link. http://myfwc.com/marine/regulation.htm

Chad

Chad, do you know if any dealers carry the light holder for Riffe in the Pensacola area? If not, I would like to order it from you if it fits a Riffe C2X.
 
Florabama:
Chad, do you know if any dealers carry the light holder for Riffe in the Pensacola area? If not, I would like to order it from you if it fits a Riffe C2X.

FLAL,

Quivers work on Riffe guns, most use the flat bottom barrel model and just file it a little.

Sorry, I have not showm them in the Panhandle, but you can order direct from me.

See http://myfwc.com/marine/fish/crevallej.jpg for photos and info.

Chad

call or e-mail chadcarney@verizon.net
 

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