A.B. Biller help SP 48 Paudak

[phoneman]

I just received my first gun a 54" biller and this is some real good info. I was wondering where would you put a line release? I have seen pics with large snap swivels either at the shaft or right after the bungee. Also can you make a speedloader setup like the spearfing specialties has. It looks simple enough but I'm sure there is more to it than what I've seen in the pictures of them on the web site.

 

[tom wicker]

I would guess this question would be a personal choice on how you plan to use your gun. On my guns I have a large heavy duty barrel swivel at the shaft end. This helps to compensate on the line from tangling on a fish that may spend some on me and also on helping with line twist while loading my line back on my gun, not to mention taking a fish off. On my shock line end I have a small brass snap like a dog chain snap just incase a problem should arrive where I would need to let go and still keep my gun.

As far as the quick load goes it works great for me I can reload and never take my eye off another fish. But I’m still trying to work my courage up to just freeshaft

 

[Johnoly]

I was wondering where would you put a line release? I have seen pics with large snap swivels either at the shaft or right after the bungee.

You do not want a snap swivel at the shaft. This will add extra weight and when the spear exits the gun, it will be heavy and arc downward greatly reducing your accuracy. Put the snap release by the bungie where is attached to the muzzle.

Also can you make a speedloader setup like the spearfing specialties has. It looks simple enough but I'm sure there is more to it than what I've seen in the pictures of them on the web site.

Yes you can but you'll need to cut a new custom length of mono line. You can contact Kevin at SS who will give you instructions for sending in your gun to be modified. Or with 400lb mono line, crimps, circle bunge and clips and do it yourself, but it would be cheaper just to send it in unless you already own the materials since you will be buying way more than you woud ever need.

 

[sawfish]

You can buy the speedloader kit from SS which includes the line and all hardware, including the line crimping sleeves. Cut to fit, and crimp the line on one end. Complete instructions are included with the kit. About $16, which is a fair price considering the quality of the hardware.

 

[Mr. Seahunt]

This is some great advice. I'm glad I found this thread!

I just received an SP 48 Biller for Christmas and have a question regarding band care. The booklet that came with the gun suggests that you store the bands in the fridge, sealed in a plastic bag.

Do any of you seasoned spearfishing veterans actually do this or even recommend it? If not, do you have other advice?

I keep my gun in a nice dry, dark closet. Shouldn't it be good enough that the bands are out of direct sunlight?

My wife hardly tolerates my scuba addiction, I can just imagine the day she finds a freezer bag with two spear gun bands in the fridge, next to the butter...

Also, beside rinsing the gun off, should I treat the wood with boiled lintseed oil between dives?

Thanks.

 

[Sam Miller III]

freeze the bands...during winter... remove and thaw in spring

generally treat stock with teak oil --that is if your gun is teak..

SDM

 

[Chad Carney]

Mr Seahunt,

I'm not that finatical about band storage either. I leave them on the gun and expect to replace them after a season of shooting. New extra bands can be kept in a zip lock bag and they will be fine, as long as they are kept away from heat. Down here in FL it's worst case, but I still don't bother to ever strip my gun. The enemy is sunlight, ozone exposure, and even flourescent lights.

Another note... bands weaken even if they are not rotten yet, so if you're not getting the pop you want get some new ones. Most stock Billers come with 9/16 diameter bands, and I would recommend getting 5/8 instead. Also move to the next shorter size if you have the arms for them... ie 22" x 5/8" on a 54" gun will really make it rip!

Cocking a hip loading gun is much easier if you know how. Place the butt on your leg at the point where it meets your hip. Reach up and grab the band with your palms up, at the wish bone rings. (Wear gloves!) As you pull the band back... you must also move the muzzle of the gun down, about 90 degrees, or from almost straight up, to almost the floor, in a sweeping motion. If you leave the muzzle up... it will be real hard to cock! You can practice this without actually latching the band. BTW the inside band goes in the front notch, and the outside band goes past it to the last notch. Or if there are three notches, you can choose which 2. Most Biller guns do best with just 2 good bands, not 3.

Chad

 

[Mr. Seahunt]

Thanks for the great advice! I can hardly wait put this thing in the water...

 

[Spearo]

I just don't have the time to take them off (there are way too many other things to wash and take care off after the hunt/dive or season that are much more expensive to replace than a 5 or $8.00 slig) but will I'll replace them or have replacements ready after the 3rd. year of use.

 

[pescador775]

Mr Seahunt, you will be able to hip load a 22 X 5/8 band on a Biller 48 but not a 54. However, it might be possible to chest load it if you have a loading pad sewed to your suit. Otherwise, forget it. If you are shooting long distance and need more traction, stay with 3, 9/16 bands, about 21-22 inch length on a 48. However, don't use Biller rubber; move onward to a hi modulus rubber such as sold by spearitco, Neptonics or Mori. If you are committed to two, 5/8 bands it will be necessary to reduce drag by as much as possible. This means eliminating the slide ring. Obtain shafts which have been drilled in the position where the ring stop normally is, or drill the shafts yourself (hi speed drill steel). Tie the shooting line to the shaft with a bowline knot. Run the string through the muzzle on top of the shaft. To make this arrangement rational as possible use a 3/16 rod which has been heated to make one or two notches high up on the face of the muzzle. Thus, with two notches the string can be routed over and around or with one notch the line can be routed through. (The Biller muzzle does not require a string to hold the spear in place so one notch is fine). Beyond that, a Tahitian shaft tip will reduce drag. This is a simple barb riveted to a shaft. Biller sells Tahitian shafts which have been drilled. Get the 48 shaft. It is tempting to buy the longer shaft but this will increase weight and reduce speed.
I edited this because I mistakenly assumed we were talking Biller 54, not 48. Good luck.
Pesky