Info 5406 running well what next?

[mstrty]

I recently aquired a Mako 9400 E1 5406 that appears to run normally. I would love to give this compressor some much needed love with a full pampering day at the spa. Other than changing the oil. What list of things would you recommend i do prior to puting it into service. There are no service records so everything needs to be done and I simply do not know where to start.
1) read the universal manual and get familiar with my equipment.
2) contact XYZ parts house and order parts??
3) help me.

 

[mstrty]

Ok Maybe not perfectly normal. Ran it today for the first time. Oil pressure only up to 800lbs. An oil and filter change along with filter elements are all aged out. The previous owner said he could remember when the last service was done. I will definitely attempt the service myself using the universal manual. Filtertechs will likely get my business. The unit has a moisture/CO brand sticker on the back but I can not locate the housing or its sight glass. Someone likely took it off. I am picking up a 6 cascade tanks with mako mixing panel next week. Super excited to get this high hours (12000) back in service.

 

[mstrty]

Ok so now i just picked up this fill station with cascade tanks. 2 ASME 537 cu ft. 7000psi and 4 SU4221 437CF 4500psi all out of hydro by a couple years. I also got no hoses so i am going to need to buy hoses. I will need to come up with a plan on which tanks to combine together to be the most efficiant.
Step 1) change oil, filters and seperator cartridges.
Step 2) change out SBCA connectors/fittings CGA347 to DIN
Setep3) plan hose routing and buy hyd hoses. (Any recomendation on source for hoses?)
Step 4) hydro DOT tanks
Step5) Add moisture/CO monitor to output. Unsure best place to install

What else? Any help is appriciated.

 

[iain/hsm]

1. Worst tube bending I've seen in 40 years. You can bet the guy who did it never worked offshore. Probably an ex garage mechanic or a Harley lead hand.

2. They got one thing right although a tad old school for todays grease monkeys in that they used 1/8 tube for the gauge lines. Proper old school and the right way to do it. Reduces adiabatic shock load on the gauge movement as they are not safety pattern or with blow off back or a flow reducing frit or safety glass. Nicely pointing at your face is comforting.

3. Shame they used steel nut end fittings on those gauge connections by the look of rust in the photo just hope they used stainless ferrules on the tube ends or you may be shortening the tube runs to stop the leaks when you break them open after all these years.

4. Those wire end switches look like crap. Make sure it's low voltage 12 or 24 volts. If not rip it out and safe your life by not emiting sparks when you touch a live metal panel. At best earth the thing and consider an ELCB

5. The Regulator is Aqua Environment. Invest in a spares kit

415 Reducing Regulators On Aqua Environment Co., Inc.

Browse 415 Reducing Regulators in the Aqua Environment Co., Inc. catalog including Item #,Special Features,Maximum Rated Pressure,Inlet Port Size,Outlet Port Size,Flow Coefficient (Cv),List Price

valvesandregulators.aquaenvironment.com

6. The Line valves are Sherwood YDA Series line valves ditto as above for a spares lit

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sherwoodvalve.com

7. That stainless quick connect looks like a Hansen Connector we used to use them on the umbilical for hot water suits out the bell. They were OK (for water) Good luck when that thing goes off. Maybe some consideration where it's pointing.

Danfoss Hansen® quick disconnect couplings

Featuring the latest design innovations, Danfoss Hansen quick disconnect couplings maximize ease of use and system uptime in key hydraulic, pneumatic and thermal management applications. Offered in carbon, stainless steel and brass, Danfoss Hansen quick-disconnect couplings meets or exceeds...

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8. Strip that insipid Baby Blue colour off and powder coat it anything else The way it looks at the moment is the sort of colour mums would use for a Gender Reveal Party.

9. Conclusion: The gauge glass will take your face off and that Hanson quick connection your stones.
Take your choice. Consider its position on the wall.

10. May I suggest also you google Cricket Box Protection. Its a British thing more on that later.

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cricketdirect.co.uk

Iain

 

[Pressurehead]

9. Conclusion: The gauge glass will take your face off and that Hanson quick connection your stones.
Take your choice. Consider its position on the wall.

10. May I suggest also you google Cricket Box Protection. Its a British thing more on that later

Funny, you made my day.

 

[iain/hsm]

I recently aquired a Mako 9400 E1 5406

The 5406 tells you its a British made Compair Revell block reference 5406

5400 Range Three/Four Stage | High Pressure Piston Compressor |

The compact design and high efficiency operation make the 5400 series ideal fo many applications; including laser cutting, component testing, and many more.

www.reavell.com

The crap packaging was done by MAKO in the USA
The wiring was done by who the heck knows. Just hope he's now jobless.
I would look behind the compressor panel more wires lurking I fear.

 

[iain/hsm]

Note the replacement middle gauge on the compressor panel. Can't miss it it's the odd one out with the odd chrome front flange and that three hole screw fixing. Now who would do a crap job like that apart from the sparky and his electrical mate I guess. Now I hope you reduced the price you paid after seeing that monstrosity.

I bet it's a cheap one. Just look at the white dial if its screwed to the movement its OK however if its attached by two Chinese made brass rivets its crap. I rest my case. And I would definitely avoid looking down the barrel of that thing when running that's for sure. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

The black filter tower is good its an ASME design with a 4:1 safety factor and hard anodised.
The idiot however who used those steel pipe clamps should be shot. Remove them and hope they never used that compressor outside on a deck. Also check if it has a rubber or plastic padding behind that rusting steel clamp. Electrolysis can be hard on your wallet.
The back pressure regulator also maybe needs a new seal kit and check the back pressure setting should be around 1500 psi. Fit a non return valve on the outlet of the BPR then also a visual indicator. Make sure the visual indicator see's full bank pressure at all times.
Check that the fittings into the base of the filter are stainless and not rusting steel hydraulic fittings.

The gold coloured separator to the left of it is however something else.
Apart from looking like something you'd see with oversize tyres on the streets of downtown Dubai on a Saturday night. And for you Yanks that don't travel around much Dubai is a bit like Miami only without the drive by shootings, the rap music and real estate based on white powder products.

This separator has by the look of things a good quality Nupro or Swagelok Relief Valve
A great shame they jammed it into the soft aluminium but not as bad as using steel fittings for the inlet and outlets rust again is its downfall. Those steel bands are also a cause for concern

Now make and model is the kicker here if its an upside down separator and the base solid drilled out
and has a sintered bronze element its a good one or a shell and tube with wetted screw threads on the base its not so good. I can't see clearly in the photo. But I suspect it's a good one. Iain

 

[Wookie]

Mako gauges are stupid expensive. They are made by Class One. As soon as I discovered I could get drip in Class One gauges and told my buddies, Class one went through the roof as well.

I have to agree with Iain about the wiring. Nothing fails like the wiring on a Mako. The reavell pumps are bulletproof, unless you don’t change the plunger/liner every ~ 3000 hours, then you trash both the first stage piston and the 4th stage plunger. I’ve sold 1st stage pistons for $8-10,000, even after begging the owner to buy a new pump. A brand new 5407 pump is light years ahead of the old 5406, parts are supported, and often costs less than the maintenance of a 5406. I have a ton of 5406 carcasses if you need stuff.

 

[Wookie]

The black filter tower is good its an ASME design with a 4:1 safety factor and hard anodised.
The idiot however who used those steel pipe clamps should be shot. Remove them and hope they never used that compressor outside on a deck. Also check if it has a rubber or plastic padding behind that rusting steel clamp. Electrolysis can be hard on your wallet.
The back pressure regulator also maybe needs a new seal kit and check the back pressure setting should be around 1500 psi. Fit a non return valve on the outlet of the BPR then also a visual indicator. Make sure the visual indicator see's full bank pressure at all times.
Check that the fittings into the base of the filter are stainless and not rusting steel hydraulic fittings.

The gold coloured separator to the left of it is however something else.
Apart from looking like something you'd see with oversize tyres on the streets of downtown Dubai on a Saturday night. And for you Yanks that don't travel around much Dubai is a bit like Miami only without the drive by shootings, the rap music and real estate based on white powder products.

This separator has by the look of things a good quality Nupro or Swagelok Relief Valve
A great shame they jammed it into the soft aluminium but not as bad as using steel fittings for the inlet and outlets rust again is its downfall. Those steel bands are also a cause for concern

Now make and model is the kicker here if its an upside down separator and the base solid drilled out
and has a sintered bronze element its a good one or a shell and tube with wetted screw threads on the base its not so good. I can't see clearly in the photo. But I suspect it's a good one. Iain

View attachment 861419

That is the good separator. The top of the bad one doesn’t show the seam.