Self Servicing Your Regulators

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I have been considering this issue because I am not convinced of the quality of my LDS's repair center. I have sent in 3 reg sets for service. So far, two of them have needed to be sent back because they started free flowing after an hour or so. The regs worked fine before they were serviced but now they are spending more time in the shop than in the water.

I would ALWAYS prefer to use the regulator I used yesterday than the one I got back from the shop today.

Richard
 
I have torque wrenches but those are for race engine building. If you are a "mechanic" you develop a good feel for what is tight enough and what is too tight. About the only place on a regulator that a torque wrench is of some value is the retaining bolt on first stages with a swivel turret. You don't want to over stress it because if it breaks you are SOL.
People should also know their mechanical limitations, a regulator is a relative simple device but if you can't replace an O ring and seat in a water faucet maybe regulator service is not your calling.

I agree, I rarely use one. I was just commenting on DIYers not having them. Mine range from a honken 1/2 drive to a screwdriver type of low in/lb torque ranges.
 
So, I have read about people self servicing their own regulators. What's involved? How do you go about getting that kind of information on how to do it?

Just curious, as it wouldn't be something you want to screw up.

The real problem is getting parts. Many of the service manuals can be found in whole or part on the web. Frankly, regulators are such simple devices I don't need a manual. As to IP, that as well can be determined to a satisfactory degree during the process. A few special tools are often required and generally I just make do or build a tool and as well sometimes make some of the more simple parts myself. I have been taking things apart since I was a child, first thing I did with anything to this very day, be it my new Dell laptop or an aircraft engine, I take it apart to see what makes it go. For me it is easy, for others it may not be, cannot speak for others.

N
 
I agree, I rarely use one. I was just commenting on DIYers not having them. Mine range from a honken 1/2 drive to a screwdriver type of low in/lb torque ranges.

I always use a torque wrench on my Scubapro BP yoke nut or din retainer. Scubapro calls for a relatively high torque spec on these compared to other manufacturers. If over torqued you could produce problems like led to the recall of the Mk20. If under torqued, it should seal OK initially but it is possible to twist the reg when it is firmly attached to a pressurized tank and loosen the connection. It is so easy to torque it properly that I have never considered not doing it.

I also alway torque the swivel retainers (turret nuts). Some of my Mk5/10s still have the older brass retainers and they can be real touchy.

I have even gone so far as to torque port plugs to spec just to see how much further they had to be turned beyond finger tight to get to spec. I know these are just not that sensitive as long as they are tight enough not to come loose, but again, it just not that hard to do it about right. I have seen port plug and hose connections that had to be at least 2 times the specification for torque.
 
So, I have read about people self servicing their own regulators. What's involved? How do you go about getting that kind of information on how to do it?

Just curious, as it wouldn't be something you want to screw up.

Hello H2OBubbles,

Lots of good info in this thread-disregard the naysayers. If you want to get an idea what it's all about, start by going to the link below and see for yourself. There are other manuals at the same site and if that ain't enough we can give you more links.

Enjoy yourself and welcome to the money saving-DIY-I know it's life support equipment-club.

I look forward to your update.

couv

DiveRite Scuba diving Manuals - DiveRite Service Manuals
 
I bought a Dive Rite Hurricane for my son-in-law based not only on recommendations but also on the availability of parts and repair information. Will he ever service his own regulator? I doubt it. But still, Dive Rite doesn't think they need to keep things a secret so the customer won't find out how crappy the internals are.
 
Recently, I used a torque wrench to tighten a burst plug to get a feel for the "right" amount of force. Problem is that the torque wrench has a different handle and different feel than a regular wrench. So, I wrenched a plug tight and removed it with a torque wrench to get an idea of how much torque I had used with the wrench.. It was close enough. First time ever I used a torque wrench on any SCUBA and it was kind of interesting. Mainly, I use torque wrenches for compressors and boat engines.

A year ago, I bought a MK25/G250HP from Leisurepro. Yesterday, I pulled it out of the box to ready it up for the dive bag. It seemed that the second stage could be tuned a little bit better so I hooked up the pneumatic tool and the balance chamber tool. After fooling with that for a half hour I gave up and checked the IP. The gauge read out 175 psi. Darn! A brand new first stage was loopy. Thanks gawd that the IP on that piston wonder is adjustable. Back to the bench and everything tuned up nicely. Now, it is convenient that I had the tools and the book for that reg. None of that was expensive and a heck of a lot less hassle than a 120 mile round trip to and from the shop, and hassle of getting somebody else to do it (drive, park, wait in line, call, drive, pay up, go home, call again). Yeah, I had a "card" but I let that slide unless there is something really wrong, and in that case I would just make arrangements with Leisurepro to repair/replace.
 
OK, all you torque wrench advocates: when was the last time you had your torque wrench calibrated?

I spent 36 years in the USAF, 12 of which was in the shop that was responsible for calibrating the torque wrenches for the whole base. I wish I had a nickel for every torque wrench I've calibrated--from 1/4" 5-15 in-lb teenies to 3/4" 2000+ ft-lb monsters. They all vary widely in their accuracy. Some are spot on; some are not even in the same ballpark as the standard.

In calibrating so many torque wrenches, I developed a "calibrated elbow" and now have the ability to tighten regs to specs without using a torque wrench. Which is better? Using an uncalibrated wrench or the calibrated elbow? For the liability argument: can you show proof that your torque wrench was recently calibrated by a means traceable to the national standard?

For those who use torque wrenches--do you account for the length of the spanner wrench adapter you're using on certain first stages when you torque the parts? How about the crow's foot? Do you jerk torque the item or do you apply torque smoothly? Which way are you supposed to do it?

Go to Costco someday and watch their tire changers "torquing" the lug nuts on the cars they're servicing. They set the wrench to one torque (it's the breakaway type), keep it there forever (a serious no-no), slam the wrench on the lug nut and bounce on the wrench with their body weight (jerk-torquing) until it clicks, then throw the wrench on the floor when they're done (another serious no-no). Can you honestly tell me that that technique is better than careful non-torque wrench tightening??

Lotsa questions, lotsa answers. Bottom line: a good mechanic who knows the difference between under- and over-torquing fastners can do as good a job torquing without a wrench as an average mechanic who has a torque wrench.

I'm not arguing against using torque wrenches. I'm merely stating that regulators can be safely rebuilt by a good technician who knows torque limits even if he has no torque wrench at his disposal.
 
tfsails= PMEL :)

couv
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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