PLBs Can Save Your Life

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

We really ought to close this thread as a newcomer couldn't digest the nearly 600 posts. Then open two new threads...

(1) Which PLB are you getting or now have, and how much? We should see clearance pricing on the PLB1, ACR 2881, and the non-floating ACR 2880, and they are good models - well the PLB1 and ACR 2881, as long as you know the manufacture dates is in the last year. There are also other makes & models that will suffice.

(2) Different thread on which canister are you getting or now have, how much, and what do you need to know. Additional discussion on new creations, altho I am skeptical. It's not likely new creations can have a tested depth rating, and I'd hate to see anyone put off getting one while they wait.
 
Are you going to make the lid out of a different material than the body to avoid thread binding?

Just got an update from the machine shop. He’ll use polyethylene.

Another improvement is to make the 3/16” o-ring a little snug so the lid wouldn’t get easily loosened by a bump. With the clear wall you can really see the sealing face by the width of the flat part of the o-ring. That’s the reason I pick thick o-ring (3/16”).

Also there is an option to add 2nd sealing surface, if needed. That is the 2.5” ID x 3” OD x 1/16” thick gasket underneath the lid flange face, as shown in the drawing. That gasket can also act as another restriction for the lid from getting twisted open by accident. To prevent such situation to occur, basically you have to twist the lid hard enough to open it.

My prototype PLB case would cost $125 (1 hour labor of $90/hr + $35 of the material). As you see in my earlier post that just the 2.5” ID x 3.0” OD acrylic tube cost $65/ft. It will get cheaper if we make more.

It’ll be finished in 2 weeks. Then I’ll test it later in June when I go diving in Flower Garden Banks. So, stay tune! :D
 
Interestingly enough, the price on acrylic doesn't necessarily go down if you order longer pieces. He's charging you a couple bucks over the cost/ft for a 5 foot length from McMaster. He's probably only going to buy a foot of it, and it wouldn't surprise me if delivery from his supplier eats up the $4 difference in price. The lathe operations are pretty simple, and he's probably already got the polyethylene around. He's probably making $15-$20 on the part at most I would imagine.

This isn't to make you think you're getting ripped off because he's charging you more on material. Everyone's gotta make money. It's just to illustrate that it isn't like anyone is getting rich making these things.
 
Just get an update from the machine shop. He’ll use polyethylene.

Another improvement is to make the 3/16” o-ring a little snug so the lid wouldn’t get easily loosened by a bump. With the clear wall you can really see the sealing face by the width of the flat part of the o-ring. That’s the reason I pick thick o-ring (3/16”).

Also there is an option to add 2nd sealing surface, if needed. That is the 2.5” ID x 3” OD x 1/16” thick gasket underneath the lid flange face, as shown in the drawing. That gasket can also act as another restriction for the lid from getting twisted open by accident. To prevent such situation to occur, basically you have to twist the lid hard enough to open it.

My prototype PLB case would cost $125 (1 hour labor of $90/hr + $35 of the material). As you see in my earlier post that just the 2.5” ID x 3.0” OD acrylic tube cost $65/ft. It will get cheaper if we make more.

It’ll be finished in 2 weeks. Then I’ll test it later in June when I go diving in Flower Garden Banks. So, stay tune! :D
Sounds great - thanks for the update!
 
Earlier in the thread I suggested I might add a solar blanket to my CustomDiver's canister that holds my ResQLink+ PLB. Today I received a solar poncho I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMSZW1W/
81hIARvD6kL._SL1500_.jpg


Now, it's much too large to fit in the canister, but I don't want the whole thing anyway since my head is what I'd be needing to protect. So, I cut the hood off, folded it up and it fits. Not only would this keep my head from getting fried from the sun, but I'm guessing it would be quite the reflective signal for aerial SAR.
 
Today I received a solar ponch I ordered.
I carry an foil emergency blanket in my canister, keep a couple in the car, carry one on hikes, use one on chilly boat rides - but that does look nice for boat rides and hikes, easier to control in the wind.

I keep watching for sale prices on the ACR 2921 now that it's out, as well as clearance prices on the ACR 2881 and PLB1. Nothing impressive yet.
 
IMG_3020.jpeg IMG_3021.jpeg
I finally solved this problem thanks to the help from fellow folks here.
Canister ordered on eBay from a gentleman in Australia. Took a week to get.

And yes it came with a solar blanket.
Thanks @DandyDon for his guidance.
 
Thank you @Akimbo. Do you use the pouch that it came with it? Seller suggest not to use it but it looks very sturdy to me.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom