What's a good tank size?

[neevo]

I'm getting myself fully kitted up for local diving and the last items to add are tanks. Keen to get some opinions on what to get as the choice is quite large.

1. Material - steel or aluminium? I think I'd like steel as the boyancy characteristics seem more favourable and I'd like to take weight off the belt, especially as I'll be diving with a drysuit
2. What size? Obviously a 7l is out of the equation as it would only be good for very shallow dives and I'd prefer to buy tanks that are a bit more versatile. I'm very good on my air even vs most other divers with 500+ dives. I'm not planning on any extreme diving (40m+) as I'm not Tek qualified. Seen a few 10l around but not sure if I should hike out for 12l instead. Pretty sure I don't need 15l. I'm also 6ft so don't need anything specifically short in height.

Faber seems to be a great brand and also see a few Cressi tanks about too. Anything else I need to bear in mind other than general condition and whether they are in test?

Thanks in advance.

 

[elmo]

If you're diving in a dry suit, I'd go steel, whatever the size. If your SAC is good, it doesn't sound like you'll need a 15l cylinder for the dives you have planned. So really, your choice is either a 10l or 12l steel (in Aus, they're actually 10.5l and 12.2l), and it will be a Faber, which is a good thing.
You may or may not need the capacity of a 12l cylinder, but most divers find they trim out better. 10l steel cylinders are very top heavy because they're shorter, whereas the 12l distributes the weight better for most people, especially if you're wearing a drysuit, where your legs are more likely to be "floaty". Ideally, try both and make up your mind. It shouldn't be hard to hire either from a dive shop. But at a guess, you'll be happier diving a 12l cylinder. The cost is pretty similar, the cost to fill is usually the same, the cost to hydro each year is the same.

 

[bowlofpetunias]

We have Seahornet super steels. We have two 10.5 liters and two 8 liters. We use the small tanks for shore dives to minimize the awkwardness of climbing up and down rock ledges or long hikes to the entry. We normally only keep the 2 small ones in test unless we plan to do a lot of diving or have dive company coming. The smaller tanks also fit better on hubby's back and he is a bit on the short side.

The need for and the cost of Hydros can be prohibitive unless you have your own compressor.

Since you know your air consumption already, I assume you also have a good idea of the normal length and depth of your dives. It is just a matter of working out what you need and how much reserve you need. Going for bigger is not always better.... just ask goldylocks

We also have a couple faber's but don't use them as much. No issues with either.

 

[bowlofpetunias]

I see you are in Sydney so just wondering if you do much shore diving?

 

[neevo]

@elmo I was leaning towards 12.2l Fabers personally and it's great to hear the trim aspects too. I might hold out for a couple of those then as they sound perfect.

@bowlofpetunias i haven't actually dived in Sydney yet, only just joined St George Scuba Club. Plan on doing a few shore dives to get used to the Drysuit, then will dive shore or other if I can get access

 

[bowlofpetunias]

Oh there are heaps of shore dives here. Most involve long walks.

Shelly Beach is great for equipment tests but a fairly long walk. Get there early for parking.

Clifton Gardens is great for seahorses and anglers but you gotta have good bouyancy or it silts bad and a lot of fishing line on and between the pilons. Parking is better there. You enter from the platform at the end of the pier The fishermen can get a bit cranky so it is best to stay under the pier. Shallow dive but make sure you feed the meters or the rangers will catch you.

Bare Island is awesome and parking is free. Lots of different options for entry but all involve a long walk and some you have to climb down the rock ledge. On good days parking is a premium. We normally try to get there for 8 or 8:30 entry depending on time of year.

I wouldn't suggest Shiprock unless you have a local guide. It is VERY tide dependent. They put in stairs now so you don't have to hang onto the rope to climb down the rock ledge.

Kurnel is the best spot to see weedies. Soem people say it is tide dependent but we've never had a significant roblem with the tides.. Just determines the entry point go in further out and let the tide do the work or swim into the current and let it bring you back.. Key is to know when it will turn.

We tend to do primarily shore dives here and save the $ for dive trip boat dives

Pop me a Pm if you want more info.

 

[neevo]

Awesome info, thanks @bowlofpetunias

 

[84CJ7]

I was going to recommend the Faber LP85's I have, but a quick check at the tanks you were looking at shows me that Australia gets a totally different set of Faber tanks than the USA, something I didn't know before.

Looking at the specs on those 12.2's (standard, not compact version) which is apparently a variety of what we would consider HP100's they are skinny and reasonably light (similar to mine actually). So I would also recommend a matched pair of that tank, but with the added reason that they would make a nice set of doubles down the road if you get into more technical diving and want to attach them together.
The only drawback I can see is being HP steel they cost a small fortune. I picked mine up as a used doubles set for a steal and they guy even threw in a pair of single tank valves that came with them originally which is how I use them.

UNRELATED EDIT: Didn't want to hijack the thread so I'll just tuck my response to JamesBon (next post) here:
I am shocked someone recognized such an old obscure game. I have had it since my 286 computer and still can play it perfectly with Dosbox (windows doesn't think its an executable anymore). I had to make the avatar from scratch in a paint program by copying a zoomed in view of the game but its 100% accurate in both pixel count and color.
Apprarently other people still remember it as well: http://www.sopwith.org/ I will have to check out that new version of it.

 

[JamesBon92007]

I was going to recommend the Faber LP85's I have, but a quick check at the tanks you were looking at shows me that Australia gets a totally different set of Faber tanks than the USA, something I didn't know before.

Looking at the specs on those 12.2's (standard, not compact version) which is apparently a variety of what we would consider HP100's they are skinny and reasonably light (similar to mine actually). So I would also recommend a matched pair of that tank, but with the added reason that they would make a nice set of doubles down the road if you get into more technical diving and want to attach them together.
The only drawback I can see is being HP steel they cost a small fortune. I picked mine up as a used doubles set for a steal and they guy even threw in a pair of single tank valves that came with them originally which is how I use them.

Hey, I have that game on my 286 computer! Can't remember the name of it though. Sopwith, perhaps? (I'm referring to your avatar, not the thread )

Oh, and (to OP) I think you are making the right choice with steel.

 

[bowlofpetunias]

You guys in the States are lucky we have to Hydro every year if we want to get fills from dive Ops. Here in Sydney we blow $55 per tank for hydros. When I was in Fl and saw the price tanks go for there I nearly cried! The price of gear here is crazy!

Getting matching tanks makes it easier to set up your gear and not have to change camband adjustments every time We got a couple tanks from a guy selling second hand ones. Still trying to find more of the 8 Liter tanks, nobody who has them is willing to part with them so far.