I use the same system as DA except I use double enders on the bungee so I can completely remove them and just let the bungee pull the tank up. I think I have a pic.
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Ok I can't tell if that photo worked. Damn photobucket mobile.
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That's pretty much it, except I run the webbing on top of the larger Nomad wing.
Marci, on the other hand, runs her bungees under the JT wing as it has a solid cover over the top.
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Or just be able to lug them around.
When using the Ring Bungoie type system, it seems like there is a trade off between a hose length that sits comfortably when the tank is at the end of the hard metal connection, and one that sits comfortably when it is on in the water with some typs of regs.
I assume that this is also somewhat true for other connection systems.
Side Note: I have to say the more I play with the setups, the more it just makes sense when the long hose is on the left tank and not the right tank, especially when single tank sidemounting, which I only do with a left side tank. PADI's Tech Sidemount, however requires a long hose on the right tank. I talked to them, and said that was a bad choice to specify the tank that had the long hose, but they were standing firm, they said. Their argument seemed to center around a right hose being able to be carried without any tank bungie/inner tube tie down req'd.
On the other hand, hose A long hose on the left could mean that more length could be deployed for the entry when the tank is hanging low, and that once in the water the hose could be put into the hose wrap bungie/inner tube to eat hose length. It is more of a process to restow the long hose after a drill though.
I guess this is why some people want a long hose on both sides.
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I could get the valve end in a more consistent position that way, but that always causes trim problems for Standard 80s for me because the butt will float. With the Nomad Ring Bungie the valve can float too since there is a longer chain of metal in the Nomad Ring Bungie system to allow it float further back.
Rather than try to fix a tank trim issue by doing something to the harness, I prefer to just fix the tank itself. For travel we often end up with AL 80s, and as such we just use cam bands to secure the lower end of the stage rig. Then we add a 2 pound weight to the tail of the cam strap snugged up just outboard of the buckle and tail to the boltsnap. It holds the tail of the tank down and keeps it rolled in close to the body.
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I'm not looping around my neck anymore as there is no real need with bungees on the tank, left hose regulators and nifty swivels. That being said, it seems to me that the five foot hose just presents a neater, cleaner as well as easier solution for side mount. I only have two 7 footers and want to find a couple of five footers to play with.
We use two 5 footers as well. I normally run the left hand hose around the back of my neck to a bungee necklace. This leaves a short loop of hose under the upper band on the tank. However in tighter areas or in situations where I may be more likely to remove the tank, I'll just route it straight up to the left shoulder D-ring and clip it off - the same as I do on the right hand tank. This leaves a loop on the tank about equal in length to an LP 95 and is very clean. Miflex hoses are too torsionally rigid and won't lie next to the tank so they are, IMHO, a non starter in this application.
Also IMHO, a 7' hose is a bit too much to keep neatly on the tank, while a 5' hose just needs one down and back loop and is quite clean if you ensure it is torsionally happy and lies against the tank.
I take care to route the hose to the inside of the tank so it is between me and the tank as it is easier to re-stow or shorten the hose length feeding off the tank and more importantly, it prevents you from scraping/crushing/abrading the hose between the tank and the cave wall in restrictions.
I have not had any issues with clipping or re-clipping the rear bolt snap through the loop of hose, but that's a produce of both how it's routed and a minor degree of care to ensure you don't clip through the loop and impede the ability to fully extend the hose. I think this is a much greater risk with a 7' hose and the double loop of hose involved.
Having to share gas with another diver, especially another side mount diver is probably a very low probability event, but I like having the ability. And, with a 5' hose that is in essence "adjustable" in terms of length from the tank you the d-ring or mouth, you eliminate all the proper hose length futzing that comes with a fixed length short hose.
My one negative observation is that if you use a 5' hose on shorter tanks and are not careful with the torsion when setting it up, you can create a sharp loop that loops around the base of the tank and over the other side, causing the hose to hang up when you try to extend it full length. It's easy to clear but it takes a few seconds to feed some slack back down the tank and flip the loop over.
Another caution is that you want to test your 5' hose to see it it's really enough to share gas in tandem through a tight restriction. In our case, we've found 5' is just enough, but the trailing diver really has to tuck in tight. For some divers/teams, it might not be enough.
