3D Printed Ziptie Gear Labels

[davehicks]

I like this idea!
I figure the ziptie would do a good job of keeping warping to a minimum. TPU could also be good if you're willing to do the color change by layer manually... (or TPU AMS, but that's basically super PLA impact-wise).

Glad you like these! I have found these very useful and put them in lots of objects. Fin spring straps, tank valves, regulators, etc. You can also back these with 3M double sided foam tape and put the on flat surfaces. I have done that on my camera housing, strobes, dome port shade. I even sewed some to a few dome port neoprene covers.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I print scuba parts with PETG or ABS. Both hold up to the elements well and are easy to print with my P1S. I use TPU as well if i need a soft part like a gasket, bushing, or o-ring. Occasionally ASA. These all work really well in water and have lasted for years. One of my oldest scuba prints are sets of PETG optical fiber connectors which have survived hundreds of dives.

I've read a bit about PA6 but have not bought any yet. I'm not sure if have a problem that needs that solution yet. I bought a couple of Carbon Fiber filaments, but have not used them yet. My understanding is they make more attractive prints but can lower layer adhesion and strength.

I haven't had any parts disintegrate in the elements yet. Probably the most exposed object I have made with PETG is a 4x5 inch sign on my front door. It gets baked by the sun in the afternoon during summer, due to Western exposure. After about a year it is starting to warp. A similar outdoor sign I made with PLA+ is starting to discolor. That one is largely shaded but fully exposed to rain.

My PETG was a goodman handle with a light attached. After about a year or so where the bolts were would crack. It still worked, but was on it's way out. I tried it in PLA 1st and that warped after the 1st time I left it in the car.

I have printed a bunch of stuff in ABS, but haven't had anything long enough (and nothing for scuba yet). I'm sure it'll hold up though. Almost impossible to break.

I really like the PA6, but it is finicky to print and for strength really needs to be annealed after printed. After that it might as well be stone. Has to be printed from a heated box and dried really well... it is nice but also a pain (or at least was a pain to get setup).

 

[davehicks]

My PETG was a goodman handle with a light attached. After about a year or so where the bolts were would crack. It still worked, but was on it's way out. I tried it in PLA 1st and that warped after the 1st time I left it in the car.

I have printed a bunch of stuff in ABS, but haven't had anything long enough (and nothing for scuba yet). I'm sure it'll hold up though. Almost impossible to break.

I really like the PA6, but it is finicky to print and for strength really needs to be annealed after printed. After that it might as well be stone. Has to be printed from a heated box and dried really well... it is nice but also a pain (or at least was a pain to get setup).

That tracks. Petg is not the goto for items that get a lot of stress or forces put on them. That is when I use ASA. I made a YS adapter for a focus light with ASA for example. It is a derivative of ABS but denser and harder. ABS is tough but it is almost like a foaming plastic. (Polystyrene to be exact) ASA prints much like ABS but you have to careful to keep the heat up high and use brims to avoid warping and bed separation.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

That tracks. Petg is not the goto for items that get a lot of stress or forces put on them. That is when I use ASA. I made a YS adapter for a focus light with ASA for example. It is a derivative of ABS but denser and harder. ABS is tough but it is almost like a foaming plastic. (Polystyrene to be exact) ASA prints much like ABS but you have to careful to keep the heat up high and use brims to avoid warping and bed separation.

I haven't messed with ASA yet, but quick google says pretty much print like ABS but is better for using outside. Cool.

I have had to use a brim with ABS and keep the bed hot, my 1st few attempts warped like crazy with the stock settings. Now everything is just about flawless.

 

[davehicks]

I haven't messed with ASA yet, but quick google says pretty much print like ABS but is better for using outside. Cool.

I have had to use a brim with ABS and keep the bed hot, my 1st few attempts warped like crazy with the stock settings. Now everything is just about flawless.

I have a P1s with out a heater so I have insulated the sides and top of the printer with cardboard or bubble wrap packaging, added a door gasket, and printed a recirculating back unit that seals the rear fan and poop chute. ABS prints like a dream with no warping. It's my favorite filament actually.

I haven't printed ASA in a while since doing all these mods, but it works well if you heat the chamber with the bed well before starting the print. Give it a try for some rough and ready parts. Be sure to scale up by about 0.5% as it shrinks a bit.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I have a P1s with out a heater so I have insulated the sides and top of the printer with cardboard or bubble wrap packaging, added a door gasket, and printed a recirculating back unit that seals the rear fan and poop chute. ABS prints like a dream with no warping. It's my favorite filament actually.

I haven't printed ASA in a while since doing all these mods, but it works well if you heat the chamber with the bed well before starting the print. Give it a try for some rough and ready parts. Be sure to scale up by about 0.5% as it shrinks a bit.

The X1C does not have a heater, just a heated bed. With ABS I set it to 100c and add a 5mm brim. Make sure I don't open the door at all during printing. No insulation or gaskets.

I've managed to print full magazines this way (vertical) sadly they flexed too much. Still worked though, but tight.