Just got this compressor, now what?

[pescador775]

I assume you are saying that the PLUG and the receptacle are dryer type, three prong. Until recently, all dryer plugs were three wire so I see no problem with running the motor on 220 single phase. Install a 20 amp breaker.

 

[cool_hardware52]

I assume you are saying that the PLUG and the receptacle are dryer type, three prong. Until recently, all dryer plugs were three wire so I see no problem with running the motor on 220 single phase. Install a 20 amp breaker.

As long as the motor is "220". If it's wired 120 be prepared for a bad smell.:11:

Tobin

 

[pescador775]

Tobin, unless there is somebody besides you that might hard wire a dryer plug into a 120V system, there is no problem.
Pesky

 

[Dexloy]

Ok guys heres what we know now, and I think its all good!
The oil in it looks like Delvac, dark brown, no water.
The motor is wired 220v, and runs great,
The compressor started up and built pressuer at a steady rate untill it reached 3100-3200 psi @ 1 1/2 min, it then stoped, as the triplex vented air, when the psi droped to some level (not sure where) the compresser started again. I am guessing right around 1 min.
We then let it run with one of the fill hoses open so the psi stayed around 2000, ran for over 20 min but the auto cond never opened, we then shut it down and drained the pressuer vessle of water, the 2 other knobs never let any water out, when they open shouldnt they also vent?

Allen

 

[cool_hardware52]

Tobin, unless there is somebody besides you that might hard wire a dryer plug into a 120V system, there is no problem.
Pesky

Lets see here.

We have a SB member who very likely did the original build on this very compressor who is expressing concern that it might not be 220 volt.

Whoa! 3 prong plug? Me thinks it might be wired for 120V. We did have a few, rare 3HP motors specially produced that were 120V. If that is the case (we need to open the control box and get me a pic of the contactor), you'll need a special service of 120V, 30 amp to run it.

Craig

We have another member here, the current owner of the compressor, who is seeking help. I make no assumptions about his technical expertise, he might have long experience with motors and controls, or not.

Is it not wise to first verify exactly what voltage / current motor is on this machine before connecting it to any power source?

Are you suggesting that I don't know the difference between 120 volt single phase and 220 volts single phase, and cannot read a motor name plate, or "wring out" the motor leads? I own a machine shop. I live surrounded by motors. Probably about a hundred. From small DC servo motors to 100 hp 480 volt 3 phase.

Why not err on the side of safety?

Tobin

 

[ScallopDiver]

Craig:

I do believe Allen and I can get this thing filling tanks. I have a couple of questions on the auto-drain system:

Does the blue timer energise the solenoid valve or de-energise it when the 907 is supposed to open? When we disconnected the motor and energised the system, that solenoid valved buzzed like it was energised. We could never seem to get the 907 to vent though.

Is the solenoid valve normally open or closed?

I assume that valve 1 and valve 2 in the attached picture are to alow the 907 to simultainiously drain all the collectors. If not, what would be their purpose? Should they be open when running?

Is the only manual drain on the filter?

Thanks for the help.

 

[cool_hardware52]

Does the blue timer energise the solenoid valve or de-energise it when the 907 is supposed to open? When we disconnected the motor and energised the system, that solenoid valved buzzed like it was energised. We could never seem to get the 907 to vent though.

Is the solenoid valve normally open or closed?

Here's the manufacturer's info on the 907

http://www.aquaenvironment.com/om/0908_OM_907_021105R.pdf

The 907 is normally open, and closes with application of pressure on the control port. I would expect the electrical solenoid to be a three way valve that vents the control port of the 907 when it is not energized and provides interstage pressure to the control port when the coil is energized. That way in the absence of power the unloader will still unload the pump.

If the solenoid is buzzing you probably have a stuck core.

BTW I've had good service from aquaenvironment. They most likely have a service kit for the 907.

Tobin

 

[Dexloy]

I assume that valve 1 and valve 2 in the attached picture are to alow the 907 to simultainiously drain all the collectors. If not, what would be their purpose? Should they be open when running?

Is the only manual drain on the filter?

The 2 valves are hard to turn and I did see water come from the joints around valve 2.

 

[CraigAClark]

First, if it is wired for 220V, then who ever added the cable and plug has created a dangerous electrical situation by using ground for neutral. With the 220v units, unless there was a transformer in the system, required 2-hot leads, 1-ground and 1-neutral. That can be corrected and you should to make it safe.

The two valves are manual over rides for the auto-drain and during normal operation should be in the "open" position. The system is set up to dump when the solenoid is de-energized and close when energized, so it is "normally open", meaning that the vent port is open to atmosphere when the solenoid is de-energized. The timer controls the frequency of the drain interval and the duration of that interval, usually every 15 minutes for 8-10 seconds. I would make note of the component positions and disassemble and clean the drain plumbing, test the check valve (replace the o-ring as well, it is an A-010) and replace the 907. if it sat for a long time, the control line may be blocked, both from the 2nd stage head to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the SS-400-8-4 fitting on the 907.

Since you were able to run the machine to pressure, I would now seek oil that will work for your application. I can offer you either 751 or 800, but not any that Pesky mentioned.

Craig

 

[Dexloy]

First, if it is wired for 220V, then who ever added the cable and plug has created a dangerous electrical situation by using ground for neutral. With the 220v units, unless there was a transformer in the system, required 2-hot leads, 1-ground and 1-neutral. That can be corrected and you should to make it safe.

The two valves are manual over rides for the auto-drain and during normal operation should be in the "open" position. The system is set up to dump when the solenoid is de-energized and close when energized, so it is "normally open", meaning that the vent port is open to atmosphere when the solenoid is de-energized. The timer controls the frequency of the drain interval and the duration of that interval, usually every 15 minutes for 8-10 seconds. I would make note of the component positions and disassemble and clean the drain plumbing, test the check valve (replace the o-ring as well, it is an A-010) and replace the 907. if it sat for a long time, the control line may be blocked, both from the 2nd stage head to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the SS-400-8-4 fitting on the 907.

Since you were able to run the machine to pressure, I would now seek oil that will work for your application. I can offer you either 751 or 800, but not any that Pesky mentioned.

Craig

I think we are right on track. I am leaving for the Bahamas in 7hr for a week’s stay with the family so I would like to order what we need today so I can do the work next weekend.
I can re-wire the unit to a 4 wire but I do not understand why it needs it if there is no GFI on that circuit but I trust you know more than I do about that so we will do it. I think there may be a transformer on the large switch in the control box.
I need synthetic oil as I plan to CB in the future but have no preference, if the 751 or 800 are synthetic then great. I also need a new filter cartridge and co2/moisture eye inserts as well as a new 907.
Can anyone think of anything else that we might need?
Can I order all this form one place or do I need to piece it together from several places?