So, here's an interesting one:
Can rust be transfered via whip/compressor manifold? For my example I've made DIY 6 way manifold.
So recently I turned my old 18L steel twin tanks into singles and by just turning the tanks upside-down roughly 50 grams of rust poured out of each tank. I don't have good picture of the manifold but I got something.
I'm not worried about the tanks containing rust but rather the new tanks.
Also here's the picture of the rust that came out of the tanks.
Another question is which way should I go about cleaning the tanks whip or thumble?
To Clarify:
As for people asking do I clear water from the valves before fills yes I do in 2 steps first without the filling end I always blast the tank valve open for a second or 2 and 2nd before opening the compressor valve I also bleed air from the bleed valve for few seconds.
So as for additional information:
The compressor is MCH 6, and yes, I was filling 8 tanks at a time.
I have PMV set @180 bars.
Never have I exhausted filters all the way to the point where the strip indicates that the molecular sieve is no longer able to absorb the moisture
And most important of all is that these are the only tanks that I've bought 2nd hand and they re 10 years old, was going for hydro test which is why I was doing visual.
As for the comments about me burning thru the filter fast cus it's 8 tanks connected to the compressor check my previous thread which I asked question why I should only run the compressor only max of 1 hour at a time. Which I've been doing. (also I have automatic condensate removal 5 mins - 2 seconds)
On that note about the heat killing the filters I will post an update @ some point in september.
I'm building a system add on system (arduino based) that will:
Monitor the oil temperature + motor temp.
Monitor the hours running since filter swap.
Monitor the motor current/voltage incase of belt failure
Monitor the output pressure + current as current goes up from 180 bar to 330 bar 12.5-15.2A should the pressure sensor fail.
Switch the compressor ON/OFF to allow it to cool between cycles.
Turn off the compressor should anything go wrong.
On top of that I have 400mm ~400w additional fan to cool the compressor during filling + on cool down cycle.
(also controlled by arduino).
+ few more failsafe features.
Based on my logic with additional cooling from the fan during off cycle ~ 20c ambient temp. I should be able to run it 45 min on/15 min off with active cooling.
Also what even fails if I were to fill for several hours? Assuming I replace the filters/oil in time.
In my recent test I attached temp probe to the end of the oil rod which is perfect indicator of the pumps operating temperature with additional fan and control run with built in fan.
Here's the results: 18c ambient temp.
Control run:
With original fan the oil temperature stabilized after just 10 minutes @55c (PMV set to 200 bar for that test for consistency)
2nd run with additional fan added to the mix: oil temp reached max of 48c under 10 minutes and stabilized @ that point.
So if I'm able to keep the temperature down what gives?


Can rust be transfered via whip/compressor manifold? For my example I've made DIY 6 way manifold.
So recently I turned my old 18L steel twin tanks into singles and by just turning the tanks upside-down roughly 50 grams of rust poured out of each tank. I don't have good picture of the manifold but I got something.
I'm not worried about the tanks containing rust but rather the new tanks.
Also here's the picture of the rust that came out of the tanks.
Another question is which way should I go about cleaning the tanks whip or thumble?
To Clarify:
As for people asking do I clear water from the valves before fills yes I do in 2 steps first without the filling end I always blast the tank valve open for a second or 2 and 2nd before opening the compressor valve I also bleed air from the bleed valve for few seconds.
So as for additional information:
The compressor is MCH 6, and yes, I was filling 8 tanks at a time.
I have PMV set @180 bars.
Never have I exhausted filters all the way to the point where the strip indicates that the molecular sieve is no longer able to absorb the moisture
And most important of all is that these are the only tanks that I've bought 2nd hand and they re 10 years old, was going for hydro test which is why I was doing visual.
As for the comments about me burning thru the filter fast cus it's 8 tanks connected to the compressor check my previous thread which I asked question why I should only run the compressor only max of 1 hour at a time. Which I've been doing. (also I have automatic condensate removal 5 mins - 2 seconds)
On that note about the heat killing the filters I will post an update @ some point in september.
I'm building a system add on system (arduino based) that will:
Monitor the oil temperature + motor temp.
Monitor the hours running since filter swap.
Monitor the motor current/voltage incase of belt failure
Monitor the output pressure + current as current goes up from 180 bar to 330 bar 12.5-15.2A should the pressure sensor fail.
Switch the compressor ON/OFF to allow it to cool between cycles.
Turn off the compressor should anything go wrong.
On top of that I have 400mm ~400w additional fan to cool the compressor during filling + on cool down cycle.
(also controlled by arduino).
+ few more failsafe features.
Based on my logic with additional cooling from the fan during off cycle ~ 20c ambient temp. I should be able to run it 45 min on/15 min off with active cooling.
Also what even fails if I were to fill for several hours? Assuming I replace the filters/oil in time.
In my recent test I attached temp probe to the end of the oil rod which is perfect indicator of the pumps operating temperature with additional fan and control run with built in fan.
Here's the results: 18c ambient temp.
Control run:
With original fan the oil temperature stabilized after just 10 minutes @55c (PMV set to 200 bar for that test for consistency)
2nd run with additional fan added to the mix: oil temp reached max of 48c under 10 minutes and stabilized @ that point.
So if I'm able to keep the temperature down what gives?


