You're going to hate me but: What is the best regulator for me to get for 2015?

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I'll have to say that once you lose faith in the life support equipment you're using, no matter what the cause you need to replace it. By continuing to use it you will always dive with a "mental black cloud". It may be merely psychological but it's enough to kill the pleasure of any dives you do. I'll echo what manni said....Ford Vs. Chevy here.

With that in mind, what features would you like in your next regulator set?

I completely agree. My GF is my primary dive buddy and we joke quite a bit about the regulator being out to kill me (we both have a morbid sense of humor, thank God). So I've love pretty much all trust in this regulator. I think moving forward now that I have a lot more experience with diving in different conditions (I was probably at dive 50 when I got the Zeagle reg), I'd say I'd prefer to have something that is low profile. Its a pretty big regulator and thats saying a lot since I have a giant, spherical head. So, top of the list is probably size. After that, I'm totally open to suggestions!
 
I had someone I dive with suggest the apeks as well and that is what I'm leaning towards. The only thing that turned me off is that he had heard or read someplace that Zeagle was making the parts for the Apeks line, or vice versa?

Absolutely incorrect. Zeagle sold rebadged Apeks regs until about the year 2000, when they began manufacturing their own reg which, with a few changes, was taken from the Apeks design. The Apeks regs are made in the UK and are excellent.

---------- Post added December 26th, 2014 at 09:09 PM ----------

 
I would suggest a reg you can service yourself once you are properly trained to do that type of work. I use old Scubapro regs because I have decades of experience working on them and they are very solid chrome plated brass. HOG has regs they will train you to service so that seems like the easiest way for you to go or you get a Kirby Morgan Superflow that is also an all metal reg that is easy to service but they do not offer training. You are ultimately responsible for your own safety and in my opinion that should include doing your own service.

http://www.kirbymorgan.com/products/regulators/helmet-mask-regulators/superflow-350-regulator
 
I had someone I dive with suggest the apeks as well and that is what I'm leaning towards. The only thing that turned me off is that he had heard or read someplace that Zeagle was making the parts for the Apeks line, or vice versa?

Absolutely incorrect. Zeagle sold rebadged Apeks regs until about the year 2000, when they began manufacturing their own reg which, with a few changes, was taken from the Apeks design. The Apeks regs are made in the UK and are excellent.

---------- Post added December 26th, 2014 at 09:09 PM ----------




I've read that post-Apeks Zeagle regulators could be considered improved Apeks regulators.



book_reg_repair.jpg
 
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I have a dozen HOG regs personally. D1's and D2's. Classic and Zenith second stages. Before I started selling them I started using them and the biggest draw was not having to let anyone else service them. Now I realize that is not for everybody. So do the customers from Colorado, Florida, Maryland, California, Hawaii, and Okinawa that send me their regs to service.
I am (or was since they will not sell me parts directly since I no longer work for that shop) an Oceanic and Sherwood tech and have serviced ScubaPro, Tusa, and Mares regs. For ease of service I have to agree that the Sherwood's (not including the SR1) are perhaps the easiest. Next is HOG/Edge followed by the others in no particular order since some of the various models are quite easy and others, though not really hard, are just a pain in the ass.

I have looked at a few Zeagles and am curious as to the model the OP has and a clearer explanation of exactly what cracked would be interesting. Unless I am mistaken it sounds like an environmental seal cap cracked? If so this is could be a service issue. Looking at the current line all I can see that is plastic is the cap or the saddle on the yoke. It would make sense if that cap cracked after 20 dives. IF it was over torqued when replaced. Over torque it and the stress builds up and a small bump could crack it. Or just the stress on the plastic.
 
I own Apeks, ScubaPro, Hollis and Hog regs, and they're all good. Right now Apeks service kits are hard to come by, due to a longshoreman strike. ScubaPro service kits are unavailable if your intention is to service your own regs ... unless you happen to be an authorized ScubaPro dealer. My Hog regs have been bulletproof and reliable. Too early to tell on the Hollis, but I love the way they breathe.

Zeagle has always had a pretty good reputation for reliable regs ... perhaps your issue isn't the regs, but the person who's been working on them ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
My regs are scubapro and I like them. If I had to do it over again I might go with Atomic. They have a nice swivel from the factory that is somehow supposed to be less risky than an aftermarket swivel.


Just a piece of information on your regulator service then mysterious failure; Just because the shop is a large shop does not mean they are infallible. In fact, a larger shop may be more prone to make mistakes because of the volume of work they do. I once had my scubapro dealer break a part inside my s600 when they installed a DIN kit and colored purge cover. Didn't notice it until i was on a dive at 80' and the regulator sounded funny. You're not going to find a brand of regulator that eliminates the possibility of human error during service.

If you go with scubapro you can generally save a bunch of money by going with "last year's" model. They come out with new cosmetics every year and deeply discount the previous years regulators.


Whatever you go with, make sure it's a brand you can get serviced locally. It will make things easier for you down the road.

When you replace your regs, get them serviced then sell them on scubaboard :). There's probably really nothing wrong with them that can't be fixed and used regs can often sell for a good 50% of what they cost new.

RE: din vs yoke. Pretty sure almost every regulator can be converted either way. I think it's supposed to be simple enough on most regs that you could easily DIY. Personally, I went DIN and carry adapters in case I need to use a yoke tank.
 
The fact that a shop is reputable and employs a manufacturer-certified repairman does not automatically mean that it would be clever to let them touch your regulators. At least not both of them the same month. It is a known fact that some technicians are more "oxygen-compatible" than others (or tech-compatible, or cold-compatible, pick your term). This becomes more of an issue when temperatures or depth or distance to air become extreme. Or if you use oxygen.

Try finding another diveshop and compare the results.

If you want a better regulator set, then do remember that Poseidon Cyklon was introduced half a century ago, and while it has received some technological upgrades in the decades past, it is a great tool favored by many (and hated by some). Apeks DS4 (or the DST with its turret and its extra o-ring) and the ATX/XTX second stage aren't exactly new technology either. Still, they are used in extreme cold and for deep trimix dives and for demanding cave dives. Some Italian regulators have fancy new features aimed at reducing the chance of a freeflow in the extreme cold. I don't need that though, as my cylinders have rotatable rubber knobs that conveniently control air flow :wink: Reliable and well maintained basic technology is all that is needed. You don't need a 2015 model. The good technology has existed for long. You just need to pick the correct technology, and a good implementation of it, and forget the marketing speeches, and find a truly carefull serviceman.

For cold water you would pick a diaphragm first stage,

such as Apeks DS4 or DST or similar (many other good brands exist; pick one that is easy to service locally). Or you could get a Poseidon Xstream that is great for cold water (approved for use under ice down to -1,6 °C / 29.12 °F without the cold water kit), but possibly hard to get serviced. The HOG is a cheaper copy of Apeks. It is not quite as well manufactured (hence, partially, the price). I have met people complaining about the quality of their HOG: The turret is not quite as stable as the one in Apeks. You get what you pay for, and for some environments good enough is... well... good enough.

The easy answer: Apeks DS4 or DST and XTX50 will not let you down.

DST may have better hose routing with that rotating turret. TEK3 is optimized for doubles. Otherwise they are almost the same product. DIN attachment is sturdy and good.
 
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I'll have to say that once you lose faith in the life support equipment you're using, no matter what the cause you need to replace it. By continuing to use it you will always dive with a "mental black cloud". It may be merely psychological but it's enough to kill the pleasure of any dives you do. I'll echo what manni said....Ford Vs. Chevy here.

With that in mind, what features would you like in your next regulator set?

That, or you have to get smarter about the equipment you have. Once you understand how and why your regulators work, you can make an informed decision as to whether you should expect continued unusual reliability problems.
 
The only thing that turned me off is that he had heard or read someplace that Zeagle was making the parts for the Apeks line, or vice versa?

The answer was presented to you in a previous knowledgeable post... but one more thing: Seriously, do you really believe that those generic rubber o-rings are manufactured by a regulator manufacturer? Or that Apeks, Zeagle, or Scubapro would manufacture metal springs for their regulators? And how many LCD manufturers are there in the world? Well, less than TV brands. It's all a matter of tolerances and specifications. Some companies use better parts than others, and the manufacturer supplies what is requested.

---------- Post added December 27th, 2014 at 06:12 PM ----------

I'd say I'd prefer to have something that is low profile. Its a pretty big regulator and thats saying a lot since I have a giant, spherical head.

Did you tilt the first stages 45 degrees? This tends to leave more space in the middle.

You could get a pair of small and robust Apeks DS4 first stages. The hose routing isn't as beautiful as with some larger first stages, but I know people that are happy.
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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