Yoke vs DIN

[Hoosier]

If you plan to have your own tanks, go with DIN and get the adaptor for the vacation trip. It is much maintenance free, even with the high pressure.

 

[The Horn]

I had the misfortune of not going DIN from day one. It is easy to fit a yoke adapter for trips bbut no so the other way around. Most regs sold in Eruope will be DIN style. It has to do with same imperial/metric thing.

Yoke valves are cheap in the US because of mass production, less robust and easyier to manufacture. I just bought a stage bottle and had them fit a yoke/DIN valve so I'm covered for both. It just sucks that now I have to outfit two regs and two tanks if I want to go all DIN.

The Din style is a much better valve interface.

 

[Diversauras]

There is a do-nut fitting that can be screwed into a DIN valve, using an allen key, so that a yoke can be attached. This is commonly done when filling DIN tanks from whips that only have a yoke fitting. I suspect that you could dive with it, I've never tried and I'm not sure that it would be recommended that you do so. You would lose the benefit of having a single o-ring embedded deep in the connection and would have something theoretically more prone to failure than a yoke fitting alone. That is also the case using a yoke adapter on a DIN reg. That said, I used the latter configuration for about a year and never had an o-ring blow but many did deform. Don't get lazy about removing the adapter and whatever you do, don't get the Scubapro ultralight and leave it on there. It will fuse to the reg (different metals in saltwater etc.) and be hell to get off!

FYI there are two types of DIN fitting. If you do buy a DIN reg, try to get the longer one. It will work on both valves, the shorter one won't!

Not all DIN valves can accept the insert to convert it to yoke. I have some Genesis valves that don't and I expct they are the rule rather than the exception. The ones that can convert are the "shorter" one, 200 Bar I think, and the "Longer" ones are 300 Bar fittings and the reach becomes too great for the yoke.

The reason DIN came into being is because the 'o' ring can get extruded from it's channel at higher pressures in a yoke configuration and DIN is a captive 'o' ring fitting that prevents this.

 

[Woland]

The reason DIN came into being is because the 'o' ring can get extruded from it's channel at higher pressures in a yoke configuration and DIN is a captive 'o' ring fitting that prevents this.

Yeah, this is the only real benefit of DIN vs. Yoke of which I've previously heard. What are the other benefits that the other posters speak of?

Thanks.

 

[PerroneFord]

You ever notice when you swim horizontally, the large fasterner assembly on a yoke regulator sticks striaight up. It makes a WONDERFUL entanglement point in a place that is VERY hard to cut yourself free from.

You notice how the yoke connector has an open frame? Well it's quite possible to hook that on something if you dive overheads and you may NOT be able to extricate yourself from it.

You notice how the yoke A-Frame is bent metal? Well over time that can develop stress cracks and fractures. Not so you think? Current issue with ScubaPro Mk20 first stages as they develop cracks in that area.

You might notice that with doubles, its easy to take a DIN regulator and lay it flat on it's side to minimize any hose or anything else sticking up behind the diver. The yoke fitting allows no flexibility in the orientation of the first stage.

These are the ones I can think of.. I am sure there are more.

Yeah, this is the only real benefit of DIN vs. Yoke of which I've previously heard. What are the other benefits that the other posters speak of?

Thanks.

 

[Scuba]

Yeah, this is the only real benefit of DIN vs. Yoke of which I've previously heard. What are the other benefits that the other posters speak of?

Thanks.

If not properly attached, or even then some claim, a hard enough knock on a solid surface could dislodge it. Primarely an overhead consideration.

 

[Woland]

You ever notice when you swim horizontally, the large fasterner assembly on a yoke regulator sticks striaight up. It makes a WONDERFUL entanglement point in a place that is VERY hard to cut yourself free from.

You notice how the yoke connector has an open frame? Well it's quite possible to hook that on something if you dive overheads and you may NOT be able to extricate yourself from it.

You notice how the yoke A-Frame is bent metal? Well over time that can develop stress cracks and fractures. Not so you think? Current issue with ScubaPro Mk20 first stages as they develop cracks in that area.

You might notice that with doubles, its easy to take a DIN regulator and lay it flat on it's side to minimize any hose or anything else sticking up behind the diver. The yoke fitting allows no flexibility in the orientation of the first stage.

These are the ones I can think of.. I am sure there are more.

If not properly attached, or even then some claim, a hard enough knock on a solid surface could dislodge it. Primarely an overhead consideration.

Cool, thanks for the info. I've still got a yoke reg, but I hope I don't run into any of these issues.

As you can tell by my logged dives, I'm still a newbie, so I appreciate the heads-up.

Woland

 

[Scuba]

Overall, the Yoke system has proven its reliability for recreational use. Maintain it, change tank valve o-ring on every annual inspection or sooner if damaged. (Dried out, chipped, torn, protrudes upon pressurization). Inspect the tank valve orifice and O-ring for wear, damage, or debris, as well as the regulator screen and connection area. Slightly and quickly open and close the tank valve before connecting regulator to blow out any debris in orifice. Some people place a finger partially over o-ring to keep it from blowing out. Not necessary in my opinion if you have a good o ring, visually verify its proper placement and don't blast the air out. Object is to blow out not blast off. Properly and carefully place regulator on tank valve, tighten yoke to a firm snug fit. Don't over tighten. Carefully unscrew yoke after dive and quickly dry regulator orifice and dust cap with a lint free cloth before capping. Some prefer to blow out water from dust cap, but be careful it doesn't blow into regulator orifice, specially with salt water. Avoid touching regulator filter screen. Be aware of the space the tank and regulator with yoke on your back occupy while diving. This will greatly reduce the chance of encountering any problems.

Eliminate poor maintenace and careless use, and you greatly stack the odds on your side.

 

[dlegros]

Having just got back from two weeks in Egypt and watching up to three failed o-rings per day - I was very glad to have had DIN regs.

You get a more compact assembly overall, a couple of divers that saw my regs were talking about converting to DIN when getting home.

As for the adapter that fits into a DIN valve to convert to A-Clamp...
Almost all cylinders sold in the UK use these, virtually none come with non-convertible valves.

As has been stated these are only deep enough to fit 232bar cylinders, this is deliberate so that you cannot connect an A-Clamp rated for 232bar to a 300bar cylinder.

Blowing to clean A-clamp covers? Easy, do it while the reg is still connected and pressurised, no need to use tank air for the job, or get a better cover.
Apeks (not sue about US manufacturers) make one which is a solid ball and so does not trap water like the conical ones.

Dom

 

[Don Burke]

If yoke was the hazard some claim it is, the insurance companies would have forced the conversion years ago.

I have equipment of both types.