Yoke valves on a PST HP120?

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As above, SOL. But instead of selling the cylinders why convert your reg to DIN? What regs do you have? A conversion kit to DIN is typically in the $50-$60 range.
 
I converted both my reg sets to DIN when I found a great deal on 4 hp 100's. Since DIN is actually a better system in the end and you can still use yoke with an adapter it seems like the best way to go. If I was going on a trip and was renting tanks I would just put the yoke parts back on. (takes about 5 minutes)
BTW, I'll give you $100.00 for each 120 if you really don't want them. :wink:
 
BTW, I'll give you $100.00 for each 120 if you really don't want them. :wink:
Oooh, oooh, I'll go $125 each. Seriously, these are good tanks (my dive buddy and I each have a set of double 120s, and I would love to add a second set). Convert your regs - it is relatively inexpensive, and easy, and ultimately a better solution.
 
technically it is possible to put a convertible valve on a true HP tank. DiveRite made a very limited number of 232 Bar convertible valves with a 7/8" - 14 UNF inlet, but they are very hard to find. Everyone that has one wont sell it.

I wouldn't recommend using a yoke reg with a HP fill though.
 
The reason that PST went from 3,500 psi cylinders to 3,442 psi cylinders is to change the pressure so that K valves or PRO type valves (international outlet) can be used. The line of demarcation for a K valve is 230 Bar and 3,500 psi is above that. While it may seem like a small jump from 230 Bar to 3,500 psi, the line was drawn a long time ago.

Hope this helps.
 
In 1999, a dealer lost one of my tanks and replaced it with a new HP 100. I mulled over what to do with this tank with the unusual neck thread and funny valve. I decided to start using the new tank but I needed two more to match. Since I normally carry three matching tanks on a weekend trip and since I had an existing investment in equipment with yoke clamps including tanks, regulators, compressors, etc, I decided to stay with the yoke format while trading up to the new type tanks; and that meant I needed to swap out tanks and get yoke valves for the new ones. I traded some cylinders, bought two more HP's and then had a buddy machine three Sherwood yoke valves to the 7/8 thread. The mods were described on the net which seemed to surprise some people and there was some "stroke" talk about weak yokes, etc. However, I have not had any problems with this arrangement. Since then, I have tried to explain to the SB people about the actual potential of the yoke clamp and the valves and O rings which characterize the modern yoke valve but I doubt that it has stuck. Some yoke clamps are functional up to 4000 psi with a safe margin. I know this from "stretch" tests which I performed. There is no black magic about the actual mod. The valve has to be stripped and shimmed into a lathe, then turned. Clean the modified valve in O2 safe solvent, reassemble including the correct disk, and install the O ring, then insert in tank to about 30-40 lb-ft torque.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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