Yoke to DIN conversion

[Hoosier]

As someone already mentioned, it is totally depending on your own tank availability.

If you have your own tanks having DIN valves, it is much better to have DIN kit and attach a yoke adaptor whenever you need it, for example a vacation trip, etc. SP DIN kit on any models is easy to find and get

 

[chasanova]

If you use higher pressure tanks and have a Mk 15, MK 16, Mk 17, Mk 18, Mk 20 or Mk 25, there is no benefit at all to getting a new first stage as all of them will work fine at service pressures up to 4350 psi.
<snip>
All of the above regulators use the same universal 300 bar DIN kit. You need part number 10-045-030 and the dealer cost is about $35.00-$40.00.
<snip>
Once you convert to DIN, you can get a DIN to yoke adapter. Scubapro sells one that comes with a new yoke, but since you already have a leftover yoke, you can also get the adapter without the yoke for about $25.00 less.
<snip>

Since you can quote the PN I am going to assume that you have the expertise to answer this question:
I have two DIN MK20's. The adapters bang the head when diving on yokes (vacation). I have read anecdoatally elsewhere that the swap from DIN to Yoke on the SP gear is pretty simple, a 6MM hex and not much else needed.
This would seem to be an ideal solution, Simply retro the MK20 for the intended usage, maybe 2x per year.
Is this true?
If so do you know the PN of the part that is swapped out to provide the yoke seat instead of the DIN fitting?
TIA

Chas

 

[SCU5]

I know this is an old thread but I had an add-on question.

DA Aquamaster, will the Yoke to Din conversion kit you mentioned works for MK25 and MK17 also work for the the MK11? I assume it will as it's essentially the same reg as the MK17. Also, other than the cooling fins, any other difference between MK11 and MK17 and any recommendations for lowest temperature water for the MK11? I got the MK11 for travel weight reasons.

Thank you!

 

[SCU5]

Also, one other question. Last time I used my reg, the MK11, I accidentally left the masking tape on the tank o-ring when I set it up. I didn't notice the tank taped (indicating it was full) as most places have the plastic o-ring cover, rather than tape to indicate the tank is full.
It breathed fine in the pool where I used it, but was curious if this can damage the first stage or if there is anything I should do?

 

[CompuDude]

Also, one other question. Last time I used my reg, the MK11, I accidentally left the masking tape on the tank o-ring when I set it up. I didn't notice the tank taped (indicating it was full) as most places have the plastic o-ring cover, rather than tape to indicate the tank is full.
It breathed fine in the pool where I used it, but was curious if this can damage the first stage or if there is anything I should do?

If it didn't leak, and you lived (obviously), you're probably ok.

You should be inspecting the o-ring every time you hook up your gear, however, so that brief pre-inspection would have made that tape obvious. You'll want to add that to your pre-dive checklist.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Yes, Scubapro uses one universal DIN fitting/conversion kit for all of their first stages except the Mk 5. It is bi-sexual in the sense that it is designed to seat with the o-ring either at the base, as in the Mk 25, Mk 17, etc, or around the fitting as in the Mk 2.

I am assuming you left the tape over the tank inlet and hooked the reg up. In that case I am amazed it did not leak, but any pieces of tape, etc should have been caught by the filter. I'd inspect the filter for any debris that could be stuck in it and if you see anything, or suspect anything may have gotten stuck down inside the conical filter, have the filter replaced.