Yet another A620 housing and strobe

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

CompuDude:
Just looked. Beautiful shots, although he's using an Oly C8080, not a Canon S80. It's encouraging that at least some Ike cases seem to work (based on his July 2005 shots). But each housing is different, as is each camera. :(
.

Too true...and I think(but I'm way beyond tired so could be wrong yet again!) he doesn't use an Ike case but an Oly case. I was making a broad point, not a specific one re Ike's and Canon S series cameras or any other particular model...sorry if I wasn't coherent :wink:
 
alcina:
Too true...and I think(but I'm way beyond tired so could be wrong yet again!) he doesn't use an Ike case but an Oly case. I was making a broad point, not a specific one re Ike's and Canon S series cameras or any other particular model...sorry if I wasn't coherent :wink:
No worries. The OEM cases and the Ike cases are notably different, though. My SD550 in the Canon case worked great with the on-camera flash, and I've talked to people with the S80 and Canon case who are similarly pleased with the strobe results. (There are other issues with the Canon case specifically with the S80, however). Other OEM cases that I've seen have been similarly... streamlined. Less bulky than the Ike case. The Ike case is much more substantial (which is good!)... including the lens tube (which is bad... in this scenario). That's why there is a specific issue. Looks like the flash-block issue gets considerably worse (understandably) if you add on external lenses.

I'll post real shots next week from my trip this weekend, and settle it once and for all. :) And then a month after that, I'll have a strobe of some sort, and the issue will be moot, for me. Such is life...
 
Ryan:
When the lens is set at its wide angle position, it is pulled back toward the body. The large port is required to allow the camera to be zoomed to telephoto, yet not vignette at the wide angle end.

A wide angle lens, even one with a wide diameter like the UWL-100 from Inon, will vignette terribly with this camera. The macros work correctly.
Would those people who have got the Ikelite housing and Inon lens agree with this statement? Not much point spending the extra money for the Ikelite housing if the WA results are NG.... ?
Thanks
 
The problem I had with the wal and the ike housing was the soft focus at the edge of the shot. It gets worse (i think when you zoom in). But, I also admit that I've only used the wal a few times underwater. Here's a sample of the problem I was talking about.

190133394_6df5c08e8f_o.jpg
 
Thanks Midwestdvr, I see your problem. It does make me wonder if its worth spending (a) extra for the Ikelite housing and (b) the money for the Inon, if this is the result... Seems a bunch of extra money for dodgy results!
I wonder if anyone has anyone REALLY played with the wide angle, to full effect...?
 
midwestdvr:
The problem I had with the wal and the ike housing was the soft focus at the edge of the shot. It gets worse (i think when you zoom in). But, I also admit that I've only used the wal a few times underwater. Here's a sample of the problem I was talking about.

190133394_6df5c08e8f_o.jpg

Hi Midwest. Thanks for the picture to compare. I believe that I can see some soft focus on the extreme left side of the picture. Is that what your alluding to? But what is the "shadow" that I think that I'm seeing on the right side, which almost looks like a double exposure? Runs up and down on the right side. Maybe these old eyes are just seeing things?

Regards to all -- Mach
 
mach2plus:
Hi Midwest. Thanks for the picture to compare. I believe that I can see some soft focus on the extreme left side of the picture. Is that what your alluding to? But what is the "shadow" that I think that I'm seeing on the right side, which almost looks like a double exposure? Runs up and down on the right side. Maybe these old eyes are just seeing things?

Regards to all -- Mach
Don't know. Could just be due to strobe positioning.
 
That is some giant hammer coral, beauty of a shot. The blurring along the edges does make me question getting a wide angle lens but will def get a macro in the future, just not sure which inon to go for.

It does give it a kind cool look like zooming towards it though.
 
I´m not an expert but I believe it happens because the camera cannot focus the apparent image created that close. Maybe it will get better on distant subjects and smaller aperture. I use a 6 inch dome with a SLR and got the same problem.
I read somewhere that the best solution is using a larger dome.It creates the apparent image farther.
The problem may get worse when you zoom because the camera may loose the close focus that the WAL usually gives
Hope it helps , there are some threads on this issue refering to larger x smaller domes
regards to all
 
As mentioned, using the strobes to avoid direct flashing can prevent backscatter, but if you''re using natural light or doing macro it would be alright.

Then a lot of people are still considering upgrading the Ikelite + strobe to avoid the shadow. Next time check how the housing is designed and you will have an idea. The shadow is caused by the lens extension part of the housing, if you get a chance look at the duffusers used by different housings, you'll probably realize: if the diffuser is sticking close to the internal flash, shadow will happen. Some of the diffusers are extended all the way, starting in front of the internal flash and go along side by side with the lens extension, the actual diffuser (the white plastic cap) is right next to the end of the lens extension. The light from the internal flash is guided to avoid the shadow. Check this out next time.

So the solution is, if you are good at DIY, hands on stuff, or if you know someone that can do it for you, you can modify the diffuser to avoid the shadow. Form a tube/wave guide to direct the light from the internal flash until the end of the lens extension. That will get you going without a new housing. Trade off is some time and skill.


If you look at some wet lens mount, the light is usually guided towards the end of the new lens, that's where they put the diffuser....
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom