Working with Delrin and other plastics

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grouchyturtle

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Are there any special considerations that need to be taken as far as which tools to use?

For example, I've heard that with Acrylic you shouldn't use a high speed saw, because it will actually melt the plastic. Would this also be true for polycarbonate?

Are there specific types of drill bits and taps that should be used when working with Delrin and Polycarbonate?

Also can you use a wood lathe to work with Delrin rods?
 
Just don't turn it to fast, it will melt also.
Make sure your cutting tool is very sharp and you may want to keep a small radius on the cutting tip if you're turning it to reduce the amount of finishing work you'll have to do.
Keep in mind that Delrin will flex, so don't take too big of a cut at one time.

High speed steel and carbide cutting tools will work just fine.
 
I've done a fair bit of work with acrylic. The plastic *will* melt at the cutting site with any significant heat input, whether from a drill bit or a circular saw. The key is not to stop cutting until the tool is free of the plastic.. in other words, don't give the plastic a time to melt and harden around the tool. I ruined a small acrylic aquarium this way drilling a hole.. stopped drilling for a couple of seconds to let it cool down. Darn thing grabbed the drill bit and never let go :wink:
 
grunzster:
Are there any special considerations that need to be taken as far as which tools to use?

For example, I've heard that with Acrylic you shouldn't use a high speed saw, because it will actually melt the plastic. Would this also be true for polycarbonate?

Are there specific types of drill bits and taps that should be used when working with Delrin and Polycarbonate?

Also can you use a wood lathe to work with Delrin rods?

I second what the Kracken said.

Sharp tools don't just mean new or recently sharpened, what is more important is rake angle. Go with lots of positive rake.

Drill specifically used for thermoplastics will be ground with a small included angle at the point, i.e more like a pencil point than most common drills.

It's not uncommon for tapped holes in plastic to be tight, or undersized. Depending on what you are try achieve this may be a benefit, if not and you need a free running thread, you can order taps that are oversized (greater H-Limit). A "poormans" solution is to first tap the hole, then wedge a piece of toothpick etc into one of the flutes of the tap and take a second pass. This will make the tap cut oversize. (practice on scrap first.)

If your needs are infrequent I would stick to tools designed for either wood or aluminum, as these will typically have sufficent rake.

Almost all thermoplastics are good insulators. This presents a problem when machining as the heat from cutting will rise locally.

Go slower than you would with wood, and let the material cool between cuts. For example when drilling, "peck" and wait, peck and wait.

Can't say I'd use a wood lathe, delrin can be grabby.


Good Luck,




Tobin George
 
Like Tob, said . . .

DO NOT try to turn it like wood !!!!
You need a fixed cutting tool.
If you're going to do some threading you can always go slightly oversized on your tap drill to reduce the amount of threaded surface you get.
 
I made some delrin plugs on my lathe but used brand new (read that as sharp as hell!) cutting tool bits and also sprayed water soluable oil on it as it was cutting to keep it cool, taking small cuts and not letting friction build up, (it cause thermal expansion and then the finished dimension isn't quite what you wanted.)
Never did much acrylic but used sheetmetal bits to cut what I did mess up, err...work with.
db
 
grunzster:
Are there any special considerations that need to be taken as far as which tools to use?

I've been told that care must be taken cutting Delrin because it is polymerized (?)
FORMALDEHYDE it will create noxious gas if cut too fast. I do not know if that is in fact true but I do know I'd not want to find out.
 
Green_Manelishi:
I've been told that care must be taken cutting Delrin because it is polymerized (?)
FORMALDEHYDE it will create noxious gas if cut too fast. I do not know if that is in fact true but I do know I'd not want to find out.

Hey Mister Green,

If you heat acetal (Delrin is a Dupont brand of acetal) you will release acetic acid vapors.
Vinegar is acetic acid. It's not pleasant, eyes water, nose burns, but good ventilation is the cure.

When we mold acetal, or machine it at high speed, we just use some BIG fans.


Other plastics will generate really nasty vapors. PVC comes to mind. Too hot gets you chlorine gas, very bad very corrosive.

It's possible that high temps might produce formalines, but I've never managed to working with most routinely machined polymers.

Regards,


Tobin
 
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
Delrin 150SA, 550SA, CL500


EMERGENCY TELEPHONE: (856) 227-0500
Issue Date: October 1985
Revised Date: May 26, 2000
TRADE NAME: Delrin/Acetal
CHEMICAL NAME: Homopolymer Polyoxymethylene Formaldehyde
PART NAME: DNR,DNS 150SA, 550SA, CL500

1. Physical Property Data
Melting Point: 172-184C
Solubility In Water: Insoluble
% Volatile: N/A
Color: White
Odor: Slight formaldelhyde

2. Fire and Explosion Data
Flash Point: N/A

Flash Ignition Temp: 322C

Test Method: ASTM D 1929-62

Fire and Explosion Hazards: Burns with a colorless flame. Delrin dust cloud ignition temperature 440C.

Extinguishing Media: Water, carbon dioxide, foam, dry chemicals.

Special Fire Fighting Instructions: Protection from fumes of formadelhyde.


3. Hazardous Reactivity
Conditions To Avoid: Heating above 230C - forms formaldehyde.

Materials to Avoid: Strong acids and bases (decomposes forming formaldehyde). Strong oxidizing agents.

Hazardous Combustion and Decomposition Products: Formaldehyde is classified as an animal carcinogen by NTP.


4. Health Hazard Information
Acute Effects of Exposure

Ingestion: Not a probable route of exposure.

Inhalation: Formaldehyde is an upper respiratory irritant and animal carinogen. TLV 1ppm.

Eye Contact: Mechanical irritation.

Chronic Effects of Exposure: Formaldehyde released in small quantity during hot processing. Formaldehyde is listed as an animal carcinogen.


5. Emergency and First Aid Procedures
Ingestion: Not a probable route of exposure.

Inhalation: Remove to fresh air. Refer to a physician for treatment.

Skin Contact: If molten polymer contacts skin, cool rapidly with cold water. Do not attempt to peel polymer from skin. Obtain medical attention for thermal burns.

Eye Contact: Flush with water.


6. Disposal Procedures
Aquatic Toxicity: Not toxic. Not water soluble.

Spill, Leak, Or Release: Sweep up to prevent slipping hazards.

Waste Disposal: Incineration or landfill in compliance with federal, state and local regulations


7. Protective Information
Ventilation: Local exhaust at molding machine.

Personal Protective Equipment: Eye: Safety glasses. Gloves: When handling hot polymer. Respirator: If local exhaust does not keep formaldehyde concentration below 1 ppm. Other: Long sleeve cotton shirt and long pants if handling molten material.

Storage Conditions: Dry storage. Keep containers closed to prevent contamination. Open containers only in well-ventilated areas.

This material safety data sheet and the information it contains is offered to you in good faith as accurate. We have reviewed any information contained in this data sheet which we received from sources outside our company. We believe this information to be correct but cannot guarantee its accuracy or completeness. Health and safety precautions in this data sheet may not be adequate for all individuals and/or situations. It is the user's obligation to evaluate and use this product safely and to comply with all applicable laws and regulations. No statement made in this data sheet shall be construed as a permission or recommendation for the use of any product in a manner that might infringe existing patents. No warranty is made, either expressed or implied.
 

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