Wings suitable for both double-7s and double-12s
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SparticleBrane
Contributor
I have used an Agir 38 with double Worthington 119s and a SS backplate (hey, it's all I've got...)
It wouldn't float that setup at the surface...I think I need a bigger wing. :11:
edit: The Agir 38 works fantastic for my double Al80s, however.
It wouldn't float that setup at the surface...I think I need a bigger wing. :11:
edit: The Agir 38 works fantastic for my double Al80s, however.
cool_hardware52
Contributor
If you are using 12/35 in your 100's you have about 11 lbs of back gas. 6 lbs of plate and harness, 5 lbs or regulators, 5 lbs of bands and manifolds, 2 x -~2 for the tanks and about -1.5 for your can light. Makes your rig about -~32. A 40 lbs lift wing should float that no problem. Your rig represents about 21 lbs of ballast. If your dry suit is +20 you'd need another 20 + 11 -21 = 10 lbs or so of ballast. That's consistent with your reported 8 lbs weight belt.
With your 130's full of 21/35 you have about 14.5 lbs of back gas. Your rig would be about - 36~37lbs with full tanks. That's very close to the rated lift of your wing.
You should also need another ~4-5 lbs of ballast with the 130's.
Tobin
limeyx
Guest
Definitely going to have to play with it some more.
I generally use same weight belt with 130's as 100's -- most people assume they are far more negative, but I dont think so.
If only I dove the same config enough times, I might get one actually dialed in
cool_hardware52
Contributor
Definitely going to have to play with it some more.
I generally use same weight belt with 130's as 100's -- most people assume they are far more negative, but I dont think so.
If only I dove the same config enough times, I might get one actually dialed in
It's not the weight of the tanks that demand more ballast with the 130's, it's the weight of the gas...
Tobin
limeyx
Guest
Hmmm, I am taking ballast to mean adding a bunch of weight to sink/stabilize something -- do I have the wrong end of the block of lead here ?
I think the 130's empty are very similar to 100's in practice, so I use the same weighting.
I know a lot of people say "wow, 130s -- now I dont need to wear any weight" but I think the empty buoyancy is very similar to the 100s?
And now you have me considering which of my buddies to push overboard before they get their drysuit zipper done up to see how fast they sink!
Failing that, I am going to definitely shove my thinsulate in the bath next year when it's time to wash it and see how it sinks.
cool_hardware52
Contributor
limeyx
Guest
Both the 100's and the E8-130's are about -1 empty. (there are a few different makes of HP 100's with some variation)
Is next year really soon enough?
Tobin
Yah, so why then would I *need* more ballast with the 130s? I understand that I will obviously be more negative (hence I guess "more ballast") with them compared to the 100's with the same gas contents.
And as for whether next year is soon enough, it depends if the P-valve becomes misconnected again
(Sorry -- way too much I)
limeyx
Guest
When you day "demand" more, you mean that I get the ballast from the gas itself, not from needing to add more lead, right ? For practical purposes I consider the 130's and 100's essentially the same buoyancy empty
*Floater*
Contributor
I think the idea is that you'll become more buoyant if you breathe down 2x130 cu.ft. of gas than if you breathe down 2x100 cu.ft. of gas, so you'll need extra lead to offset that added buoyancy.
For example, if you are just neutral at the 10' stop with almost empty double 100's and almost empty wing/suit, then you were maybe about 15# negative at the beginning of the dive due to the gas in the 100's. Now if you begin the dive with double 130's and only 15# negative when wing and suit are almost empty at 10', and then you breathe down the double 130's you'll become about say 20# more buoyant because of the gas loss, but now at your 10' stop you are screwed because your wing is empty, drysuit near empty but you are still about 5# too positive...
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