When to buy tanks?

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Where do you start on what tank to buy? Brands? Etc?
Start with the type of diving you are doing.

Shore or boat based
Average depths
Average dive times
Average SAC rate
Amount of lead you use
Wetsuit (thickness) or drysuit
Budget
Experience level

Take all of that information and post it here, I would guarantee I could recommend a tank that would work well for you.

Or buy an HP100 and it will fit most of the boxes for 90% of the people.
 
For me, I started when I got my first set of gear. I also got a single AL80. Probably didn't really need it at that point, as my dive buddies at the time needed to rent gear anyway.

But, I still have that tank and it's still in service. My daughters use it. Tracy's mention of understanding your consumption rate is a good one. My RMV is decent, but way higher than that of either of my daughters. So, it works out well that they use the 80s and I use larger (currently 130s).

I don't dive with dive ops often, so having my own was pretty important. Not essential, but still important. I mostly dive off of my own boat, it may be less critical especially if they are provided by the op you use. If you do use charters, the standard diameter tanks would probably be best as they are more common.

It's mostly a convenience. If you dive a lot, it may have a financial benefit, but you need to factor in the cost of VIPs annually, and Hydro every 5 years. If that cost/dive is less than the difference between rental and fill, then there may be a financial benefit. Technically, the cost of the cylinder itself should be factored in, but with their long life and the used market, it's a little muddy.

Or buy an HP100 and it will fit most of the boxes for 90% of the people.
Yep. This is a great place to start. Worst case, you might need a bigger cylinder as your diving changes, but then you can either keep this, or sell it.
 
Shore or boat based: Both, but more boat then shore
Average depths: Will be 60-100
Average dive times: 45-60 min
Average SAC rate: Don’t have a number yet, but I know I use significantly more air than my wife on the same dives
Amount of lead you use: Limited feedback, but on my most recent two dives in Monterey on vacation I had on 7mm suit, good, gloves, steel 100, and 28lbs of lead on me
Wetsuit (thickness) or drysuit: Will normally be anywhere from 3-5mm
Budget: As much as it costs
Experience level: Beginner, Learning fast

Will be getting nitrox cert in the next few weeks, not sure how that factors into the equation just yet but if you can school me that’d be great?
 
Amount of lead you use: Limited feedback, but on my most recent two dives in Monterey on vacation I had on 7mm suit, good, gloves, steel 100, and 28lbs of lead on me
Yeah, not really relevant to Florida diving. But I'm impressed at a Floridian doing cold-water diving.

As others have said, you really can't go wrong with HP100s as your go-to tanks.
 
Shore or boat based: Both, but more boat then shore
Average depths: Will be 60-100
Average dive times: 45-60 min
Average SAC rate: Don’t have a number yet, but I know I use significantly more air than my wife on the same dives
Amount of lead you use: Limited feedback, but on my most recent two dives in Monterey on vacation I had on 7mm suit, good, gloves, steel 100, and 28lbs of lead on me
Wetsuit (thickness) or drysuit: Will normally be anywhere from 3-5mm
Budget: As much as it costs
Experience level: Beginner, Learning fast

Will be getting nitrox cert in the next few weeks, not sure how that factors into the equation just yet but if you can school me that’d be great?
Your note about SAC rate is important. Since your wife uses less, it might be a good idea to get a different size for you and for your wife. That way you'll be closer in remaining PSI at the end of the dives. Like 100 for you, 80 for her. Or perhaps 120/100. 80s are readily available, so it would be easy to figure out if that works after getting a 100.

Nitrox doesn't factor into the equation, but it can factor into the dive time. You'll have more available NDL. You can only extend the dive if your gas supply allows, so that may open up the possibility of larger cylinders (120/100) vs 100/80.

Might be worthwhile to pick up a 100 and rent an 80 to see how your air consumption fairs. Probably not a bad idea to wait until you complete the Nitrox class, though. If using Nitrox, you'll need to use either Nitrox clean or O2 clean tanks depending on the shop. If you absolutely must get one now, the cleaning can be done at the same time as the VIP is done.

Oh, and I expect you'll use A LOT less lead for diving in FL. At least most of the time. 7MM is pretty thick and not likely to be required for most of the year.
 
I got tanks for convince mostly. I dont have to travel back and forth or wait for the dive shop to open to go diving.

New cylinder prices have started to go up, heck some sell their used ones the same price as new cylinders. Try and find a good deal.
 
At what point/frequency of diving is buying tanks financially beneficial when considering the maintenance/upkeep of having your own vs just renting?

Where do you start on what tank to buy? Brands? Etc?

I was certified in 1987, and I purchased my first cylinders (two brand-spankin' new Sherwood Genesis HP80's, that had just begun becoming available) in 1988. I was a graduate student at the time here in central MO, and believed that I would be either local diving, or driving a distance to camp and dive, due to limited funds, for the foreseeable future.

I still own these cylinders, and they still satisfy for recreational diving here in the Midwest (in full 0.25" wetsuit, or drysuit).

They (at 20" length) are a bit short for me (6'2"), but I am comfortable with the idea of doffing and donning them at depth, to work a valve, etc., if I have to. (And, BTW, I have had to do this IRL!)

They are a bit too negatively buoyant in fresh water for no- or thin-wetsuit diving, maybe. And, being short, they will put many (most?) wings at risk of being pinched and holed--since many (most?) wings are longer than 20".

If you do decide to purchase a cylinder, my advice is to purchase two of the same--if there is only you diving. If there are two of you (say, you and your S.O.), then purchase three of the same, along with an equalizing whip. Life is easier if you and your buddy are diving the same make and model cylinder, if possible, since each of you is carrying your buddy's emergency gas supply.

Good luck with your decision to purchase (or not).

rx7diver
 
When you have enough gear that picking up a tank to go diving is a hassle, and often worse returning it. To be able to go when you want, where you want, without having to worry about getting the tank returned. Back that up with needing local diving (tanks don't fly very well, but they transport great by car).

One tank will be lonely, which is why they are usually found in pairs. And they start to multiply. Orphans are welcomed and brought in as well. Turns into a sanctuary and pretty soon you are one step away from being a crazy cat lady, but scuba tanks. You collect them faster than you can sell them. When you sell one you are checking credentials to see of the new owner is worthy of caring for the new cylinder. You say you have no favorites, but secretly you do. Friends and friends of friends will bring you orphans to take care of. After a few years you will find some of your lost tanks that you forgot you put in storage (in a closet, under the bed, etc.) One will fail hydro and you will feel sad and go out and get 4 more.
 
At least up here in Norway, I'd say both 12L 232 bar, 15L 232 bar and 10L 300 bar are very popular, so at least a few options😅
 

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