When does it make sense to learn sidemount?

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Solo diving without sidemount requires either doubles (which are just a pain in the butt), or sidemount. Technically a pony fits some minimum, but having seen how long pony bottles actually last when really needed, I would consider most ponies not really redundant, just bothersome.

Huh? I solo dive with an AL40 all the time. How is it not redundant? It's more then enough bailout gas for any recreational dive.

I also don't see how it's bothersome. I sling mine DIR style and it doesn't cause me any problems at all.
 
(Slinging a 40 "DIR Style"? What are that?)

If you think DIR is the way to go, you probably don't think twin tanks BM is a pain, in which case you have a higher threshold for what is a pain in the butt than most people. SO of course you find slinging a pony not a pain.

I hate back mount doubles. They are just a major pain in the butt.Sure plenty of people put up with them, but. Dealing with any pony bottle is a pain on most dive boats. AL80's fit in tank racks like the racks were made for them (because they were).

(OTOH sidemounting AL40's is pretty cool, and a huge effective weight savings over a BM 80. SO those might be worth putting up with hassles to use for some.)
 
The 40 is rigged as a stage and clipped on my left side. I hardly notice it's there and it doesn't impact my trim. The valve and reg is right there and easy to deploy. I have no problem with the 40 on either of the two dive boats I frequent. I store it under the bench and pull it up and clip it on just before standing up.

So... side mounting 40's is "pretty cool" but a 95 for back gas and a 40 for a pony/stage isn't enough?

Your assertion that solo diving requires doubles is not founded in the real world.
 
Class is going pretty well. Only problem is my damn feet! I have size 12 boots so they are really buoyant - i started with my Cressi frog plus which are way to buoyant. Then tried Hogs - too heavy. Jet Fins don´t fit. Dive Rite exps are too light but best so far ( bus when my tanks get low, plus the light fins then my feet go up ). Both too heavy and too light mess up my trim, and I just go up when backfinning with light fins and frog kicks don´t work well with the heavy ones. We´ve tried weight on the butt with light fins and weight at the top with heavy fins but doesn´t really help. Any ideas?

Really difficult to tell without actually seeing what's going on in the water. What is your orientation when you are in the water completely relaxed, meaning not moving and not trying to maintain horizontal trim? If you're trying to maintain trim and stiffening up then it will be impossible to correct your trim.

What course materials are supposed to be part of the IANTD basic nitrox course? Protec gave it to me for "free" as part of my one on one sidemount course. I am unsure of how much this course usually costs and what is included. I asked Protec if all course materials would be provided and they said yes, and now they are saying the manual is $44 if I want it ( not sure if I should pursue this ). I assume I need the book, or can I download it online or buy it used ( don´t care if its filled in )? The book I have is also really old, not sure if there is a newer edition and if it would be any different? Also, are separate waterproof tables for EAN 32 and 36 supposed to be provided with the course, or manual (there are paper tables in the back of the manual ), or bought separately?

IANTD does require the manual and tables for their courses. You can't download it but you may be able to find a used copy somewhere. While there are areas of the tables in the book they do not provide the complete tables there.

Is there any reason I shouldn´t buy the Stealth 2.0 tomorrow ( like trying other rigs )? If I want to buy one then shouldn´t I dive with a new one that I´ll buy tomorrow and have Patrick set it up well so I don´t have to figure it out all on my own later?

You shouldn't have to figure anything out on your own later. Any adjustments made to the rig during your course should be explained to you so you know what is being done and how to trim out any rig you use in the future.

---------- Post added May 22nd, 2013 at 09:12 AM ----------

(I spent some time in the pool today practicing breathing off a bare tank valve in anticipation of underwater regulator swaps--not easy with a sticky valve.)

There's really no reason for this skill. Proper gas management will mean you have enough gas in one cylinder to get to the surface, whether on a decompression dive or in a cave, on one cylinder. If you lose a cylinder because of a regulator failure you should be able to get to the surface using the other.

---------- Post added May 22nd, 2013 at 09:14 AM ----------

Well isn't a computer supposed to be one of my next purchase to come first?

im up for more in depth reading as long as it also covers the basics because I'm sure once I got the book I will have forgotten all of the stuff I just did

So you don't think I need plastic tables as long as I have a computer and understand the theory? What about decompression tables, they are in this book but I don't know how to use them. Would t it be a good idea to have plastic deco tables to take down with you?

While a computer is nice to have it isn't necessary. You should be planning your dives and diving your plan, even when you get to the level of doing decompression dives.
 
Really difficult to tell without actually seeing what's going on in the water. What is your orientation when you are in the water completely relaxed, meaning not moving and not trying to maintain horizontal trim? If you're trying to maintain trim and stiffening up then it will be impossible to correct your trim.


Not sure exactly what you mean - I'm trying to be tight but Patrick kept saying I had to keep tighter ( back arched more, head up more)


You shouldn't have to figure anything out on your own later. Any adjustments made to the rig during your course should be explained to you so you know what is being done and how to trim out any rig you use in the future.


Well that's too bad, almost no explanation was given as to what adjustments would do what. And I am actually trying to figure out how to set up my rig right now, trying to remember how the one i was using for the course was..
 
Unfortunately the arched back is one of the most misunderstood concepts when it comes to diving trim. People are told to arch their back and they wind up having their knees too bent and creating more drag in the water. Something that may help is to think of it more like being a ballerina. You want to arch your entire body to create a curve that has your head up and looking forward instead of down, a comfortable arch in your back that puts your belly as the lowest part in the water (even with your chest) and a slight arch or curve to you legs with your toes pointed. Keep your knees close together which will put your feet wider apart. This will have your fins flat in the water with the tips up. When you have an over head the top of your head and your fin tips should touch at the same time. When lowering down on to a flat rock or platform your chest and stomach should touch first before your knees, cylinders, etc. The difficult part is getting everything in your rig balanced so you can do this while completely motionless in the water. If you are truly trimmed then you should be able to change horizontal trim by breathing with the top or lower part of your lungs. Breathing with the top part of your lungs should make you go more head up and breathing with your lower lungs should make you go more head down. It takes a good bit of time, setup, and practice to get this down. A 90 degree bend in your legs is too much even for BM and way too much for SM.

A good SM class will explain the why of how everything is set up. If it does not then you will be lost moving forward and will have a lot of difficulty adjusting your rig or getting back when you make a bad adjustment. That is the biggest reason that I have so much respect for Edd's SM class at Cave Adventurers. He explains how he does things, how others do it, and why he does what he does. Everything comes with a why so the student gains actual understanding. Just being told to do something because that is how it is does not provide teaching IMO.

Again I am not trying to discredit where you took your course I only mean to relay helpful information.
 
Dr Bill, are you diving sidemount now? I remember reading you were curious about it but if you are diving it now, what rig and how do you like it?

Robert

I can only speak for myself. I do not do caves or wreck penetrations. Sidemount for me is a way to carry sufficient gas and redundancy to undertake longer deep dives without having to carry doubles on my aging back. After all, I'm an old geezer!
 
If you do not have a SM system yet, look at the Hollis SMS 100, dual bladder. Great it you will be moving on to Tech. You can set the SMS100 up to have a single tank on your back as well use for SM, like having 2 BC's in one.
 
Really difficult to tell without actually seeing what's going on in the water. What is your orientation when you are in the water completely relaxed, meaning not moving and not trying to maintain horizontal trim? If you're trying to maintain trim and stiffening up then it will be impossible to correct your trim.


Not sure exactly what you mean - I'm trying to be tight but Patrick kept saying I had to keep tighter ( back arched more, head up more)

You should be perfectly horizontal when you are completely relaxed. You shouldn't have to keep tight at all. What I have my students do when they get in the water is get into a modified frog kick position and then relax. No finning, no sculling, no stiffening to try to stay in position. I then watch to see what happens. If they don't stay perfectly horizontal then they usually go foot heavy or head heavy. Adjustments are made based on what happens until they remain perfectly horizontal when relaxed. You shouldn't have to get tight and fight to stay in position. You should be the most relaxed you can be when you're diving sidemount.


You shouldn't have to figure anything out on your own later. Any adjustments made to the rig during your course should be explained to you so you know what is being done and how to trim out any rig you use in the future.


Well that's too bad, almost no explanation was given as to what adjustments would do what. And I am actually trying to figure out how to set up my rig right now, trying to remember how the one i was using for the course was..

That's unfortunate.
 
Hey I have been thinking about the same course. Have you got your own gear yet? I just bought a Hollis sms 100 bcd which was designed for side mount but will still take a single back mount(which I've been using), and apparently a back mount double as well. The day I heard about side mount I knew I'd be doing it. I'd say if you're thinking about it, just go do it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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