What's the best hand held light available - need opinions.

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Here's a photo of a Heser Backup disassembled:

HeserBackup.JPG


I've never seen another light with that kind of solid-state LED head unit. It is a totally sealed unit, then sealed again inside of the light.

The "tube" on the top is a massive heat sink that surrounds the batteries inside of the milled delrin body.

I've never seen a light a Home Depot like this, and there's a tremendous performance AND longevity difference between my Hesers and any light I've ever purchased from Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, Walgreens, or whatever.

I know I sound argumentative, but it's simply not fair to say that this light is the same.
 
Here's a photo of a Heser Backup disassembled:

I've never seen another light with that kind of solid-state LED head unit. It is a totally sealed unit, then sealed again inside of the light.

The "tube" on the top is a massive heat sink that surrounds the batteries inside of the milled delrin body.

I've never seen a light a Home Depot like this, and there's a tremendous performance AND longevity difference between my Hesers and any light I've ever purchased from Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, Walgreens, or whatever.

I know I sound argumentative, but it's simply not fair to say that this light is the same.

It looks like a well built light as I said. A battery tube is necessary on any Delrin light to complete the electronic circuit between the - and + poles of the battery. In an aluminum light this isn't necessary since the sides of the light would do this. All led's are more or less waterproof. I can't tell from the heatsink/pill in the picture if they have done anything more than is normal but as I said it's a well built light.

There is nothing they have done (or could do) to make that light using 3 C alkaline batteries with a specific led last any longer than any other light using the same led and 3 alkaline batteries.

The light output itself and the run time will be more or less the same no matter who puts it together. I don't even think they claim otherwise on their website. They hype up the metal tube a bit by saying it "warms up the batteries" making them better producers.

That's a bit disingenuous (and not necessary as it is a good product) because what's really happening is that alkaline batteries don't produce full power if they get really cold...leave one of your regular flashlights in the car overnight in 20 degree weather and turn it on the next morning...it will not be as bright as it will a couple of days later when the weather is back to normal. They could use lithium batteries and they wouldn't have that problem but it is a problem with alkalines if you are in really cold weather. It's a bigger problem on land because it gets colder on land. I dive in 46 degree F water and that's not really cold enough for that to be much of an issue.

So, since they have to have a tube anyway for electrical conductivity as I mentioned and since they would like to transfer heat from the heat sink that the led is attached and since they can't transfer it to the body since the body is Delrin they make it sound like the tube has some magical properties.

They have to use a tube since they have chosen to not use an aluminum body and since they are using a Delrin body which is an insulator rather than an aluminum body which is a conductor they are touting this tube as something special. They probably have made the tube so that it is a better heat sink than just having an aluminum tube just for electrical conductivity reasons but it's really turning a sows ear into a silk purse to describe it that way.

I know I sound argumentative as well but it's a public forum and I think it's fair to address misinformation even if it's not intended to be misinformation. Again, the light can stand on it's own merits as a well built backup light without the other claims that just aren't true. It would not be hard to find or to make a light that had a beam that was just as white and that had a runtime just as long for $30. Get that led for $10, get a host body with reflector, through in 3 C cells and it's the same performance wise as far as runtime and whiteness of light.

That's not why people are paying that price. It's its build quality as an underwater light. It's the materials in the body, a good reflector and lens, tight spec for underwater use. Why would connecting a Cree XR-E R2 to 3 C cells last any longer in a Heser and output light any whiter than if it was sitting in any other housing?
 
If price is no object, have a look at the Light Monkey 9w handheld. I have the Salvo equivalent. It's bright enough to be used as a primary for cave diving. Rechargeable floodproof battery compartment. It's size is great for travelling when you don't want to bring a cannister along.

...unfortunately, there are many reports that the rigid Goodman Handle on this light sucks....the light body is prone to just pop out of the handle !
 
I'm just wondering what is the latest and greatest hand held light available these days in a small package. I'm not looking for a pistol grip style, I want a smaller back up style for bug diving and one that is bright enough to work as a primary. There has been some vast improvements in LED technology I know, so where is the level now.

I bought a Raider 1 when they first came out and that seemed like a great little light (still have it). Then the Raider 3 came out so I jumped on that with the idea in mind of how I liked the Raider 1. The R3 turned out to be a disaster (for me anyway).

So along those lines, price being no obstacle (I'm looking for the best) what is the brightest, most reliable, most durable option in a hand held back up these days.

....yeah, a while back bought a Raider I and Raiser III.......while the Light Sock idea is BRILLIANT, the lights themselves suck ! My Raider III flooded on the 1st dive trip I ever used it on (been diving over 8 yrs now and I've never flooded a light before...I've very careful with lights....so it wasn't user error) Raider I still works but the screw-on/off 'action' is unreliable so the light is rather erratic.......the design on paper was fine...attractive pricing.....decent beam strength.....just too unrelaible......a real shame as I so wanted to like these lights.

......so now I'm plan 'B'......2 weeks ago ordered (2) mbsub (Germany) X1-VB(3 C cell) variable focus/magnetic rotating-collar activation lights.....hopefully I'll get them next week as apparently the US distributor (Golem Gear) doesn't actually stock them but orders from Germany as orders come in, hence the delay.

My intention is to try to install the Oxycheq light socks on them, as I really like the 'soft' Goodman handle option that Oxycheq invented. If these lights are of the high quality I expect from a German product (as Germany has always been the world leader in optics....unlike my apparently outsourced-to-China Raider lights), I then plan to buy a pair of mbsub PHOTON2/VB-50 'head' combos, (IF I'm impressed by the quality/performance of the X1-VB's)......PHOTON2/VB-50's run about $ 1200 each.....these have the variable focus LED heads/magnetic rotating switching mechanism/rigid Goodman handles/rechargable......as I'm no longer interested in any lights that require twisting the light head for on/off activation......nor am I interested in the Intova style lights with the 'sliding' magnetic switch design......magmetic switch=Good! but sliding switch=Bad!

I'm OK with non-rechargable back up lights but want my 'primaries' to be rechargable as I insist my 'primaries' be able to be 'topped' off prior to all dives as I don't want to be guessing how much burn time they have left.
 
Scubafanatic, I hope you'll write a review when you get the mbsub lights. From everything I've read and heard they are very well made lights.

If the light that you've just ordered fits the soft sock great. If not it's easy to make a bungee mount similar to this so you should be covered either way.

I made one which is detailed in the DIY section. There is also an improvement you might like for the sock soft as well. I have a the soft sock as well. You may not feel that you need the improvement ...it depends on the weight of the light you're using in it.

The improvement is to cut a section of PVC roughly the size of the top of your hand or rather roughly the size of the underside of the top portion of the soft sock. You drill two holes in the PVC and thread the bungee through it to keep it attached. When you put the soft sock on you will have have a solid PVC platform on the top of your hand to support the soft sock fabric making for a more stable light.

It's much easier to make and attach than to describe.

I like magnetic switching as well. My light has a rotating ring magnetic switch.

Looking forward to hearing about the mbsub lights.
 
It looks like a well built light as I said. A battery tube is necessary on any Delrin light to complete the electronic circuit between the - and + poles of the battery.

I haven't seen another light with this kind of "tube." Usually, they have a single strip of metal running down one side of the light, between the batteries and the delrin body.

There is nothing they have done (or could do) to make that light using 3 C alkaline batteries with a specific led last any longer than any other light using the same led and 3 alkaline batteries.

Agreed, but I haven't seen any other manufacturer use the same LED "heatsink/pill" as you called it. Have you seen an LED light with the same design? Have you seen an LED light with the same design at Home Depot?

The light output itself and the run time will be more or less the same no matter who puts it together. I don't even think they claim otherwise on their website. They hype up the metal tube a bit by saying it "warms up the batteries" making them better producers.

Well, I'm not saying that there's any magic going on... I'm sure that if anyone else used the same materials and the same design, it'd perform exactly the same way. I just haven't seen any other manufacturer use those components.

Honestly, I haven't looked at EVERY light on the market - only a couple dozen of them, plus what I've seen in retail stores and "Home Depots." :) Perhaps there is another manufacturer using the same components - I'm just not aware of one.

So, since they have to have a tube anyway for electrical conductivity as I mentioned and since they would like to transfer heat from the heat sink that the led is attached and since they can't transfer it to the body since the body is Delrin they make it sound like the tube has some magical properties.

I can't comment on their marketing plan, but I can tell you that there's no magic... Just a really great design, using high quality, high performance products that I haven't seen anywhere else.

They have to use a tube since they have chosen to not use an aluminum body and since they are using a Delrin body which is an insulator rather than an aluminum body which is a conductor they are touting this tube as something special.

Well, as we argued before, there's advantages in delrin bodies, and there's advantages in aluminum bodies. By using both, this light gives you the advantages of both, with the disadvantage of neither.

I don't think that's "magic," I just think it's a good design. :)

I know I sound argumentative as well but it's a public forum and I think it's fair to address misinformation even if it's not intended to be misinformation.

I agree with you - but you haven't shown any misinformation. There is nothing that is said that is incorrect or "fluff."

Again, the light can stand on it's own merits as a well built backup light without the other claims that just aren't true.

What claims aren't true?

Have you ever used a Heser Backup? Maybe you'd perceive this whole thing a little differently if you'd used one. :)

It would not be hard to find or to make a light that had a beam that was just as white and that had a runtime just as long for $30. Get that led for $10, get a host body with reflector, through in 3 C cells and it's the same performance wise as far as runtime and whiteness of light.

I don't think that the solid state LED is a $10 unit... That's where the difference is between what you're saying and what a Heser Backup is.

In fact, I'm confident that you couldn't find JUST THE LED (what you're calling "heatsink/pill") for $30... Even if you didn't mill the delrin out of a solid rod, manufacture an inner aluminum sleeve (a thing of beauty if you've ever seen one) and a one-piece, solid acrylic light head with molded rubber cover... Which only leaves one seal on the entire light, which is double O-ringed and used as the switch for simplicity and durability.

I'll tell you what... If you can make Heser Backups for $30, I'll pay you $80 each for them and we can all be happy. :)

Has to be the same light, though... None of this "stick an Ikelite LED in a MagLite body" crap. :)

I am amazed at those who are constantly modifying their lights - why not just buy quality from the outset and enjoy it?

By the way... Your "they're nothing special" attitude is something I have heard before... All of the Halogen light manufacturers were saying the same thing about LED lights when they first came out. :) They kept saying, "Batteries... Bulb... They're all the same, and LED lights aren't anything magical. I just wish they weren't making such outlandish claims."

We all know how that went... :)

That's not why people are paying that price. It's its build quality as an underwater light. It's the materials in the body, a good reflector and lens, tight spec for underwater use.

There IS no "reflector and lens" in a Heser. Well... Of course it's there, it's just one, solid, sealed unit, manufactured to work correctly and symbiotically. If a Heser were to flood, the LED would not get wet - the reflector would not get wet. The inside of the glass would not get wet. Basically, you could disassemble the light, rinse everything under tapwater, let air dry and then replace the batteries and reassemble, and everything would work great. I haven't seen any other light use these components.
 
I haven't seen another light with this kind of "tube." Usually, they have a single strip of metal running down one side of the light, between the batteries and the delrin body.

See attached pic.
Agreed, but I haven't seen any other manufacturer use the same LED "heatsink/pill" as you called it. Have you seen an LED light with the same design? Have you seen an LED light with the same design at Home Depot?

The same led's are everywhere. If they have sealed the led/reflector assembly great. It's still the same led. I said the build quality was good. I was questioning your statements regarding a whiter white and a longer run time. Sealing the led doesn't effect any of that.

Well, I'm not saying that there's any magic going on... I'm sure that if anyone else used the same materials and the same design, it'd perform exactly the same way. I just haven't seen any other manufacturer use those components.

Honestly, I haven't looked at EVERY light on the market - only a couple dozen of them, plus what I've seen in retail stores and "Home Depots." :) Perhaps there is another manufacturer using the same components - I'm just not aware of one.

This is similar, it just uses smaller batteries and the led/reflector/lens aren't sealed as one.

See attached pic. (by the way these aren't my pics although I do have this light as my backup).
I agree with you - but you haven't shown any misinformation. There is nothing that is said that is incorrect or "fluff."

I was referring to claims that this light was whiter than others and with exceptionally long run time as compared to others with the same configuration.
What claims aren't true?

Have you ever used a Heser Backup? Maybe you'd perceive this whole thing a little differently if you'd used one. :)

I addressed the claims issue above. I don't need to use one because I already said it's well built. Maybe if you used my backup you'd have a different impression as well.

I don't think that the solid state LED is a $10 unit... That's where the difference is between what you're saying and what a Heser Backup is.

The phrase "solid state" has no meaning here. Solid state in electronics refers to the time when products were moving from using vacuum tubes to solid state electronics.
In fact, I'm confident that you couldn't find JUST THE LED (what you're calling "heatsink/pill") for $30... Even if you didn't mill the delrin out of a solid rod, manufacture an inner aluminum sleeve (a thing of beauty if you've ever seen one) and a one-piece, solid acrylic light head with molded rubber cover... Which only leaves one seal on the entire light, which is double O-ringed and used as the switch for simplicity and durability.

Here's one supplier, prices are in Euros...
LedRise - High Power LEDs
I'll tell you what... If you can make Heser Backups for $30, I'll pay you $80 each for them and we can all be happy. :)

Has to be the same light, though... None of this "stick an Ikelite LED in a MagLite body" crap. :)

This is a false argument. Who said I could build a Heser for $30. I said you could find a light with the same led and if it had 3 C cells it would have the same runtime all for $30. I said the reason for the higher price and the reason people buy them is because of the build quality and the fact that it's for underwater use.

I am amazed at those who are constantly modifying their lights - why not just buy quality from the outset and enjoy it?
I believe you when you say that you're amazed.

By the way... Your "they're nothing special" attitude is something I have heard before... All of the Halogen light manufacturers were saying the same thing about LED lights when they first came out. :) They kept saying, "Batteries... Bulb... They're all the same, and LED lights aren't anything magical. I just wish they weren't making such outlandish claims."

We all know how that went... :)

This is just not an argument that has anything to do with anything that I have said.
I could argue when talking about Heser that a great quality product is how they described the Edsel and we know how that went. It's just a nonsense argument.
There IS no "reflector and lens" in a Heser. Well... Of course it's there, it's just one, solid, sealed unit, manufactured to work correctly and symbiotically. If a Heser were to flood, the LED would not get wet - the reflector would not get wet. The inside of the glass would not get wet. Basically, you could disassemble the light, rinse everything under tapwater, let air dry and then replace the batteries and reassemble, and everything would work great. I haven't seen any other light use these components.

That's great but no one is arguing otherwise. This still has nothing to do with run time or with the whiteness of the light and everything to do with build quality which I have said many times and in many ways is good.
 

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See attached pic.


The same led's are everywhere. If they have sealed the led/reflector assembly great. It's still the same led. I said the build quality was good. I was questioning your statements regarding a whiter white and a longer run time. Sealing the led doesn't effect any of that.

No, but the sealed "head" of the Hesers is clearly manufactured that way... It's not like it's simply glued together somewhere by someone.

...Which, of course, says absolutely nothing about what brand/model LED is inside of the thing.

Is it a different LED than what's available elsewhere on the market? I have no idea... All I know is that it performs exceptionally well, and I haven't seen any one, single LED that comes close in terms of (visual) light output.

That said, I've seen a few lights that house multiple LEDs within the head... Those appear to be similar in terms of light output, but much less focused and consequently very difficult to signal with.

The fact is that we could argue all day long about this, but until the two of us compare a Heser "solid state" (and by that I meant, "sealed, one-piece, solid unit") LED light "head" with whatever you want to compare it to, we're both just arguing to argue. :)

This is similar, it just uses smaller batteries and the led/reflector/lens aren't sealed as one.

I think by "similar" you mean that it's got a bolt snap attachment point on the back and that it's black... 'Cause otherwise, the light shares no components with a Heser.

Again, like saying that a Festiva is the same as a Ferrari because they both have two doors and start with an "F."

By the way, the light you showed in the photo is not the same one that I used to have - the one I used to have had a single "strip" of metal running from the rear spring to the "head" of the light. There was no "sleeve" inside of it.

Honestly, that's the first time I've ever seen a sleeve inside of a light, other than the Hesers. I've never had my buddy's Photon Torpedo apart, so I don't know if it's tubular like the Hesers or a "strip" like the Halcyon Scout LEDs.

I was referring to claims that this light was whiter than others and with exceptionally long run time as compared to others with the same configuration.

What I'm hearing you say is, "Yeah, if you put that same LED in another light with the same batteries, then you'll get the same performance (in terms of light color, output, and longevity) that you do out of a Heser." I totally agree, and see no argument.

...So now all we need to do is find another light that uses the same LED, and we'll have a similar-performing light without all the durability and solidity of the Heser.

...Or you could just own a Heser and get the advantages of all of it. :)

Maybe if you used my backup you'd have a different impression as well.

Honestly, I'd like that. I'd love to see that light and how it compares. Could we justify the expense difference? Would there be a significant difference between the two?

Here's one supplier, prices are in Euros...
LedRise - High Power LEDs

I don't see the Heser's sealed unit available there. I know you keep telling me that an LED is an LED, but clearly, I can see a huge performance difference between what came in my Hesers and every other light out there... So I have to assume that it's got something to do with that LED unit.

...Which I don't see available anywhere.

This is a false argument. Who said I could build a Heser for $30. I said you could find a light with the same led and if it had 3 C cells it would have the same runtime all for $30. I said the reason for the higher price and the reason people buy them is because of the build quality and the fact that it's for underwater use.

Oh. I thought you were telling me that you could make a Heser basically for $30. If it's not for underwater use, then the entire concept is moot.

I believe you when you say that you're amazed.

Heh. :) Now, now, "debating" is healthy. Arguing is healthy and educational. Insulting is a loser's way of communicating.

As far as I'm concerned, the first one of us to throw out a personal attack loses. :)

I don't relate with the "constantly modifying your lights" mentality, but that's your call if you want to do it. :)

This is just not an argument that has anything to do with anything that I have said.
I could argue when talking about Heser that a great quality product is how they described the Edsel and we know how that went. It's just a nonsense argument.

Sorry, I'm unclear as to what you were saying... Are you saying that it's a nonsense argument for someone to say that a product is a "great quality product?" If that's not what we're all after here, then what should we be after... A "poor quality product?" for what it's worth, the Edsel is a classic marketing blunder - they made a car with a very apparent phallic reference. People didn't like it because the front of it was said to look like a male reproductive member. Great product or not, the car failed because of it's public image.

...Which has nothing to do with any of these lights, unless you're building one from a dildo... :D

That's great but no one is arguing otherwise. This still has nothing to do with run time or with the whiteness of the light and everything to do with build quality which I have said many times and in many ways is good.

I feel like we're losing focus here... What are we "arguing" about then? :D

No worries, my friend - at some point if we ever meet up in our scuba travels, I'd be really interested in seeing the light that you pictured in your last post - and I'll show you one of my Hesers. :)
 
Every aluminum light I have ever had was great… for a while. Corrosion always changed my mind in a short time. Magnet switches used to be a major priority, but with the availability and cost of current LEDs and rechargeable batteries, I am finding that I just twist the lite on for the whole dive(s) and forget about saving power.

Given this mindset, most of the inexpensive LED twist-on/off plastic lights retrofitted with Costco rechargeable AA batteries aren’t a bad choice for Pacific Coast under-rock hunting. The UK Mini Q40 eLED has been good to me, but there are plenty of 15-$30 lights that work. At these prices you don’t need to be so concerned over selecting “the best”. Ultimately, they are all consumables.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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