What type of boat to buy??

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If you buy used your main concern will be with engine condition. Most boat hulls from reputable mfgs (Mako, Everglades, Proline, Grady White, Wellcraft, the list goes on) make a hull that will last FOREVER if it's in the hands of a good owner. Even a layman can look at a boat hull and tell if it's in good shape or not. If you're inexperienced with boats then take someone with you that knows what they're looking at.

Find a good, honest marine mechanic and have him check the boat out for your. Most will do a full head to toe inspection on the hull and engine. Have them do a full diagnostic workup on the engine. Check the plugs, compression, etc. Have them pull the hours of the engine. BOATS and ESPECIALLY MARINE ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE. Don't assume you're going to sign a note for $15K and never spend another dime on it. Before you buy, get the model/numbers off the engine and do your homework on the brand/model year. Yamaha and Mercury both have had good and bad production years. You don't need a 4-stroke - so dont let them sell you on fuel economy - there is not THAT big a difference. If you buy 2-stroke try to shoot for fuel injection (EFI/DFI). I have a Mercury 150 EFI Saltwater and it does fine on gas.

Above all else, if buying used, make sure it's an engine that's been run regularly and not something that's been sitting on their lot for a few months. It costs more to own a boat and NOT use it than it does to take it out every week. Those engines have to be run. If it's a used engine the first thing you're going to want to do (unless it's already been done by the dealer/seller - which is rare) is put new fuel lines, new filters, change out the lower unit oil. Make sure they haven't had the same gas sitting in the tank for a few months as this will need to be drained because the ethanol problem in marine engines (theres something else you can read up on).

The list goes on and on - definitely try to buy new if you can. But just remember when it comes to a used boat the biggest focus should be on the engine. Depending on size/type these things go for up to $20K-$30K.
 
Congrats on the boat cdoyal!

Just to echo SkimFisher's comments - Boats take a beating and "things break" - Not having the capability to fix things yourself means paying a premium for repairs and long times you are unable to use the boat.

My buddy has a 1997 Bayliner 26 which we use for diving and over the last year repairs on this boat include:

Outdrive seal replacement (maintenance).
Belt replacement (maintenance)
Oil (maintenance)
Anode (maintenance)
Fuel filter replacement (maintenance)
Oil Pan leak due to rust.
Outdrive bearing replacement
Distributer cap and plug lead replacement due to shorting.
Bad Ground.
Hydraulic pump replacement due to bad bearing.
Water pump replacement due to bad bearing.
Nav light replaced due to corrosion
Railing replaced due to corrosion.
Fiberglass deck repair due to dive tank or anchor.

Independent of all the "hassle", we have had a fabulous time with this boat - More than 50 dives in about 40 trips. A new boat will likely not suffer from big initial repairs but will require ongoing maintenance.

My boat is new and is built for the Ocean - Cruising, diving and weekends camping board.

IMG_2143.jpg


Regards Dwayne
 
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That's a ton of stuff on your buddy's Bayliner.

In the last year, my 1997ish 17' Boston Whaler with Evinrude two-stroke 90:

Sparkplugs (annual maintenence)
Fuel filter and O-rings (annual maintenance)
Steersman O-ring (annual maintenance)
Lower unit lube (annual maintenance) (I think you missed that on the BL).
Grease (quarterly maintenance)
Cotter pin (annual maintenace include pull the prop and regrease the splines).
Gel coat chip patches.
A significant gelcoat repair ($500) from getting bounced off something.

My boat gets in saltwater about 70 days a year (130 dives).
 
Congrats on the boat cdoyal!

Just to echo SkimFisher's comments - Boats take a beating and "things break" - Not having the capability to fix things yourself means paying a premium for repairs and long times you are unable to use the boat.

My buddy has a 1997 Bayliner 26 which we use for diving and over the last year repairs on this boat include:

Outdrive seal replacement (maintenance).
Belt replacement (maintenance)
Oil (maintenance)
Anode (maintenance)
Fuel filter replacement (maintenance)
Oil Pan leak due to rust.
Outdrive bearing replacement
Distributer cap and plug lead replacement due to shorting.
Bad Ground.
Hydraulic pump replacement due to bad bearing.
Water pump replacement due to bad bearing.
Nav light replaced due to corrosion
Railing replaced due to corrosion.
Fiberglass deck repair due to dive tank or anchor.

Independent of all the "hassle", we have had a fabulous time with this boat - More than 50 dives in about 40 trips. A new boat will likely not suffer from big initial repairs but will require ongoing maintenance.

My boat is new and is built for the Ocean - Cruising, diving and weekends camping board.

IMG_2143.jpg


Regards Dwayne


...hey thats nice

lol, we are just in Seal Beach, wink, wink

Do you clip your gear off on a line?

We had a Glacier Bay 9power cat) in Hawaii...great dive boat, a swim step like platform between the outboards, very capable in big seas interisland


We only replaced an impellor and the steering cables in three years.
 
:rofl3:the most important thing to remeber with any boat is that B.O.A.T. is an Acronym for Bust Out Another Thousand!:rofl3::rofl3:
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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