Sorry to bring back the thread, just read something recently about regulator check. Part of it can be done by users and others by dive shop. The article (from the Dxxx Magazine UK) suggested that a good reg check in dive shop should at least take 3 days to do. Just wondered if the experts here can tell if this is also a typical standard here...
Then to begin with, let me quote some related info from another article:
"Call for better regulator servicing"
Britain's Diving industry has to response to the recent Health & Safty Executive (HSE) report. HSE evaluated equipment related to the fatal dive accidents between 2000 to 2003 in UK. 28 out of 60 regulators, after the accidents, have failed the European test, due to corrosion, incorrect setup and lack of correct servicing.
Is the list below a standard procedure?
The checking list from the article:
1. Hoses checking
Inspect for cuts, holes or splits, esp on the ends. If the hose protect is there pull them back a bit and check the hose beneath where the hose connects to the ferrule. The way to pull back the hose protect: twist clockwise while pulling on it, such that the host would not be unscrewed during the process.
If the host is very tight, running a little warm water with soap inside the protector may help.
If it won't budge, let it soak (make sure the 1st stage does not get wet inside), do not try to pull the protector out too hard it may hurt the hose.
Change the hose if any cracks or holes are observed.
2. Overall Fasten checking
Waggles around at the 2nd stage and check if anything is loosely fastened. The exhaust deflector, diagphragm cover at the front of the 2nd stage.
3. Mouthpiece checking
Esp important after the regulator is checked after maintanence.
Is the cable-tie secured the mouth piece. If it is an old mouthpiece, check
if it is beginning to split. If this is a new replaced one, is that the correct size for the regulator.
4. Exhaust Mushroom checking
Exhaust Mushroom is the rubber flap mushroom shaped valve, typically just below the mouthpiece, hidden by the deflector.
Overtime, the valve could get deformed, e.g. curl at the edges.
Leaving the 1st stage sealed with the dust cap or a finger over the hole, gently suck through the mouthpiece. If any air gets in, it could be a exhaust valve leakage.
No need to suck hard, in case of leakage, it would show up.
5. Sintered filter checking
The filter should look clean with you look into the DIN or Yoke connect hole, where the filter is. Observe for dirt or corrosion.
A cloggin happened at the filter would cause undesired breathing resistance.
6. Second stage cracking resistance checking
Attach the regulator to the tank. Breath of it and check.
The setting for the resistance is checked by putting the 2nd stage into water e.g. kitchen sink, in pool, or a bucket of water.
Dip the 2nd stage into water with the mouthpiece in uppermost position and the diaphram lowest. Slowly immerse without getting water in.
With a few cm depth, the pressure will build up across the diaphragm, enough for it to push in and let out a faint hiss of air.
This hiss should occur just before the water laps over the mouthpiece, and brings the test to a halt.
If it doesn't crack and gently hiss, the breathing is too tight. If it just splurges out in a freeflow, the breathing resistance is too loose.
Most of the followings need tools:
7. First stage intermediate pressure (IP) checking
8. IP recovery checking
9. First stage creep checking
10. Overnight tests checking
11. High Pressure Guage checking
12. Overall wet checking (do not need tools).
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