What the heck is a H valve?

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Very nice thread but i`m still missing the most important answer.
When you are on a deep 120'+ dive and you come in a OOA you will find that it is
very hard to breath on a single first stage because the flow of the first stage is not high enough to support two divers.when you dive seperat first stages you will not have
this problem.
Therefor I love the H-valve.
 
karstdvr:
Consider a Y or sling shot valve,that would eliminate that problem.

So how does a Y-valve with a valve to tank o-ring eliminate that problem?????????
 
I'll have to try that, it's a point well worth considering. What regulators did you try this with?
 
Matt P:
No - I don't dive special mixes. I don't have plans to do that. I don't even dive Nitrox. I draw a distinction between a pony and a deco bottle. In this case when I say pony I a 19, 30, 40 ft (or whichever size) bottle of air.

In the tec side of diving a pony is usually considered a 13,19,30cf.....a deco bottle is thought of as a 40,50,72,80cf. generally speaking. If you diving a single you might consider a larger tank....say a 120 or a great pick a hp130 if your LDS can handle the 3442psi fill. A great pick for a pony is a 19cf slung,,,,with this combo you have a serious sport diving kit that offers you good flex and safety...top that back tank off with the added protection of an H-valve and you are set for some great diving,,,,practice a basic valve-drill of turning off and on your H-valve valves to ensure you can do this if ever needed. Happy diving.
 
texdiveguy:
In the tec side of diving a pony is usually considered a 13,19,30cf.....a deco bottle is thought of as a 40,50,72,80cf. generally speaking. If you diving a single you might consider a larger tank....say a 120 or a great pick a hp130 if your LDS can handle the 3442psi fill. A great pick for a pony is a 19cf slung,,,,with this combo you have a serious sport diving kit that offers you good flex and safety...top that back tank off with the added protection of an H-valve and you are set for some great diving,,,,practice a basic valve-drill of turning off and on your H-valve valves to ensure you can do this if ever needed. Happy diving.

Hey - now there's an interesting idea. That just may be the sort of configuration that would meet my needs and make me feel comfortable.
 
Matt P:
My feelings on doubles are that I'm not sure I could swim them to the surface if I lost all bouyancy. I know of a guy whose wing burst on him at depth. He had doubles and essentially had to pull himself hand-over-hand up the anchor line. Fortunately, he was near the anchor line when it happened.

You should be able to swim your rig to the surface, even with doubles. For cold water diving with steel doubles, the redundant bouyancy is the drysuit. Double AL80s are popular with warm water divers in wetsuits.
 
Matt P:
Hey - now there's an interesting idea. That just may be the sort of configuration that would meet my needs and make me feel comfortable.

Matt this is an excl. set-up for serious sport dips,,,,I dive it often when not kitted for tec runs. I think you will find a combo that works with you....best always!! :)
 
Thalassamania:
I'll have to try that, it's a point well worth considering. What regulators did you try this with?

When you replyed to my answer

I tryed this with balanced and unbalanced first stages of several brands
Even my atomic Ti1 failed me, and my buddy at 150'. I'm gone try this with the new Oceanic Delta4/FDX10 next sunday they say this reg has an enourmes flow.:huh:
 
TheRedHead:
You should be able to swim your rig to the surface, even with doubles. For cold water diving with steel doubles, the redundant bouyancy is the drysuit. Double AL80s are popular with warm water divers in wetsuits.

You make a great point for the readers....don't over look in warm water doubles diving your redundant bounyancy, partc. important for deep runs,,,a double wing set-up is a good pick if your primary wing is not double bladdered.
 
Thalassamania:
To buy the farm because of said freeflow would require:
Anyone who has HAD a real freeflow at depth (not a simulated one), knows just how unnerving the rush of air around your head can be. It is relentless and uncomfortable. Nah, I would rather turn off the offending valve.

Also, constantly re-configuring your gear for the various types of dives (singles to doubles) is just ASKING for trouble. I have a pair of 130s that I am considering Y valves for.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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