What tank: AL80 or steel?
- Thread starter eelnoraa
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Scared Silly
Contributor
If I were to look for a nice all round cylinder it would be a HP100. About the same size and weight as an AL80 but more gas when you get a full fill. But even when the filler gives you 3000 psi ya still got 85 cubes. It will knock 4-5 lbs off your belt while weighing the same as an AL80. You can find good deals on them for about $250 new.
As for floating at the surface, if your nose is out of the water you can pretty much breath. All you need is about 12 pounds of positive buoyancy to get your head above the water (less buoyancy for all you air heads out there). If conditions warrant bring a snorkel.
As for floating at the surface, if your nose is out of the water you can pretty much breath. All you need is about 12 pounds of positive buoyancy to get your head above the water (less buoyancy for all you air heads out there). If conditions warrant bring a snorkel.
klauricella
Contributor
Also remember at depth your 7mm wetsuit loses its buoyancy so what maybe enough ditchable weight at the surface may not be deeper. With aluminum you will become more buoyant as you run low on air which could be handy if your bc fails, with a drysuit you have a secondary buoyancy system.
Just my thoughts.
Just my thoughts.
SteveC
Contributor
I tend to vote for the Alum 80 as they are the tanks you will get on most any dive trips. Also there is alot of missunderstanding about the bouyancy. ALL 80' tanks will be 5lbs more buoyant at the end of the dive. The tank material has no effect on the weight of the air that is used.
I've used both sorts. Either can work, but whatever you buy make sure it has current hydro and visual tests from somewhere you have heard of and trust. If you have any doubts and you're buying privately insist on whatever the next due test is being performed before you commit yourself. otherwise walk away.
In fresh water both should last a long time, virtually indefinitely if they're filled and used properly. In salt water steel is far more prone to corrosion. Aluminum tanks are far more susceptible to damage if over-filled or filled too fast.
Bearing in mind the cost of testing a tank be sure you really are getting a bargain if you buy used. There are some excellent deals available on new tanks.
In fresh water both should last a long time, virtually indefinitely if they're filled and used properly. In salt water steel is far more prone to corrosion. Aluminum tanks are far more susceptible to damage if over-filled or filled too fast.
Bearing in mind the cost of testing a tank be sure you really are getting a bargain if you buy used. There are some excellent deals available on new tanks.
scubafanatic
Contributor
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......the HP steel 100 is a SWEET tank...you pay more than for an AL 80, but you are getting more ! That being said, if you travel (fly) to dive, you might as well get lots of practice with AL 80's as that will be the tank available the VAST majority of the time......so you can have your bouyancy with AL 80's dialed in....and so you can get a very good feel for how long you air will last across different dive times/depths, so you know what to expect on your dive trips. I use HP 100's/HP 120 for my road trips...but mostly AL 80's on dive trips requiring flights. I've found there really isn't much difference between an AL 80 versus a HP 100 with respect to weighting/bouyancy/trim...but I've been diving 8 yrs now, and so switching back and forth between different tank sizes doesn't 'throw me off' ...as a new diver it may be the case that you need to keep it simple and try to buy a tank size you expect to be using the most frequently and rack up some experience dives before venturing beyond that.
klauricella
Contributor
ALL 80' tanks will be 5lbs more buoyant at the end of the dive. The tank material has no effect on the weight of the air that is used.
This is true but alum become positive and the steel will still be negative.
This is true but alum become positive and the steel will still be negative.
skynscuba
Contributor
SteveC
Contributor
klauricella
Give it a little more thought. The fact that the tank alone will be more bouyant does not matter, as the diver is weighted to compensate for this. The bouyancy shift is the only thing that matters. All divers using an 80' tank will have to be 5lb over weighted if they want to be neutral at the end of the dive regardless of tank material.
Give it a little more thought. The fact that the tank alone will be more bouyant does not matter, as the diver is weighted to compensate for this. The bouyancy shift is the only thing that matters. All divers using an 80' tank will have to be 5lb over weighted if they want to be neutral at the end of the dive regardless of tank material.
klauricella
Contributor
But think that your wetsuit is not offering any buoyancy when your are at depth I am not talking at the surface where your wetsuit provides lift. So what is going to help you up. With an alum you will have positive buoyancy that will provide lift just like adding air to your wing. A steel will offer nothing and you will have to swim it up. Check with the DIR guys they recommend aluminum with wetsuit steel with drysuit for singles so that you always have redundant buoyancy.
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