What should i look for in a dry suit

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I am getting ready to buy a drysuit and was set on Diving Concepts based on knowledgable user references until I tried on both DC and Bare 2mm Neoprene. I seemed to get a much better fit on the Bare XCD2 in an LT (I am 6'2", 205 lbs, standard sizes).

Any comments on the Bare vs. DC quality, longevity, etc, and on shoulder vs. self-entry suits would be appreciated!
 
George1098 - Your profile doesn't say where you are from...but coming up at Lake Rawlings in Virginia is a big dive bash where companies will have dry suits to look at and try out. It's around the 17th of October. They probably talk about it on the Lake rawlings web site.
 
Of the four divers in our group with front entry trilams from DCS three hate them. The one guy who has a back entry (me) loves it. Main complaint seems to be freedom of movement. For me I didn't feel comfortable putting on the front entry. At DEMA they talk to the DCS folks about it, and before they got very far with talking about their issues, he stops them and says "Front Entry right?".

Down side of back entry, its much easier to get zipped up if a friend (you trust) zips you up.

On the positive side the quality on the DCS suits has been good, granted trialam and not crushed. Only complaint is the boots wear out quick and have thin soles. I think they may have changed boots since I got mine.
 
Lots of ideas have been tossed around, but I haven't seen the way I did it mentioned.

This won't work for everyone, but what I did was sit back, watch the classifieds on this and a number of other boards (as well as CraigsList, eBay, etc.), and keep a look out for a CHEAP (but ready to use) used drysuit, of ANY sort. I ended up finding one for about $400. It didn't fit perfectly, but it had new seals and didn't leak. It was a cheap, bare bones back entry trilam from USIA with ZERO extra features... the inflator valve didn't swivel, no pockets, no suspenders, no zip seals... and it was a little big on me.

But it got me started. And while I used it, I got a good feel for drysuit diving, and was able to start a mental checklist of the things that really annoyed me that I would take care of in my next suit. And it let me dive dry while slowly saving up for my next suit... I kept an eye for the right deal on the right suit with the features that I now knew first hand that I really wanted, and when the time was right I pounced. I now have a DUI CLX450 which I adore, which fits me marvelously, and which has all the extra features I wanted. AND I have a spare suit that I can loan out, or use as a backup should I ever have an incident and need to send my main suit in for repairs... OR I can simply sell off my starter suit for pretty much what I paid for it, should I decide I want/need the money more than a backup.

This method won't work for everyone (you need patience, some luck, and to be willing to drop $400 you may or may not get back), but it worked well for me. I was able to dive dry with a VERY low price of admission, and find out first hand what was really important to ME in a drysuit, all without feeling any time pressure about needing a drysuit "NOW", since it had been "too long".
 
Hey George,

I am from your area so to speak being over here on the Rock and I bet our diving is very similar. Most of my diving is in sub 50F water. I have a Bare CD 4 Pro Dry suit which is 4mm neoprene crushed back entry. I picked it up for $650 in Ontario , DiveAqua - Learn to Dive Today! (Powered by CubeCart) and aslo added the wrist cuffs and dry gloves. I find it nice and warm with one set of woolies or two sets of poly underwear.

I have also used a 7mm full neoprene Oceanic dry suit but found it very warm and at depth it changes to much like a wetsuit and my buoyancy is harder to control. Alot of my friends have trilam but end up wearing alot of wollies and that drives up the cost as the suit is more $$$ and they have to wear so many thick layers to stay warm.

I am happy with the 4mm crushed so its something for you to consider depending on how much $$$ you have. Also Abyss in Halifax makes a nice suit for around $1100 so check them out at Welcome to Torpedo Rays in your area.

Good luck

P.S Get a neoprene neck seal instead of latex, it will keep your neck way warmer and will last much longer.
 
I have been using a dry suit for a while now and the one thing I would suggest is taking a dry suit specialty course when you get your suit. I wound up taking the course and it really helped me once I got in the water here in NJ.
 
Aside from the higher cost of a dry suit you are likely to spend more maintaining a dry suit, by fixing leaks replacing seals and possibly the zip in a couple of years diving than you will on buying a wet-suit.

Although suits are made from a wide variety of materials. Its often a choice between Butyl nylon or cordura tri-laminate, or neoprene.
A medium weight tri-laminate with a shoulder dump is probably the easiest dry suit to start with. Its more of a loose fitting overall. As such, I don't think the average person needs them to be made to measure. They have no insulating factor, and you wear layered inner suit clothing for warmth. Medium weight tri-laminates are normally very puncture resistant and hard wearing. They tend to have a higher drag factor in the water than a close fitting neoprene suit. I see some companies use the term "Compressed neoprene", I'm not sure if that product really exists and its not marketing hype for high density 3 or 4mm neoprene. Neoprene suits are closer fitting, they have an insulating factor that tends to disappear as you go deeper due to compression. This type of a suit will change its buoyancy factor faster than a tri-laminate. The thicker the neoprene, the greater its insulating factor but the thicker it is, the harder it is to control your buoyancy on multi level diving. You can usually fin faster in a neoprene suit, because there is less drag. This handy if your bucking a strong current to get to a shot line, etc. Movment charactersitics, turning, changes in buoyancy, rolls and movement will be a little quicker in a neoprene suit. Neoprene natural insulating qualites mean you need less underclothing. Generally neoprene is not so durable a material for a drysuit as butyl-nylon or Cordura tri-laminates. Latex seals cuff and neck seals are more often than not found on tri-laminate suits. They are better seal but not so durable. Neoprene neck and cuff seals are warmer though they often stretch a little after use and leak a little. Neoprene seals tend to last longer. It used to be a choice of a back zip or diagonal front zip. Though I'm seeing suits with front zips like the whites but I've never tried them. Diagonal zips tend to break more often than back zips, (maybe its just me) replacing drysuit zips is very expensive. Shoulder dumps can sometimes get blocked by the inner suit material with certain combinations its may be necessary to wear an arm band, I have used an off-cut piece of tyre inner tube. I like a 3 or 4mm neoprene suit it doesn't last as long as a tri-laminate but I reckon the reduced drag helps me fin further and if necessary gives me greater ability to fight against a current and also reduces air consumption makes it worth it.
 
Aside from the higher cost of a dry suit you are likely to spend more maintaining a dry suit, by fixing leaks replacing seals and possibly the zip in a couple of years diving than you will on buying a wet-suit.

Although suits are made from a wide variety of materials. Its often a choice between Butyl nylon or cordura tri-laminate, or neoprene.
A medium weight tri-laminate with a shoulder dump is probably the easiest dry suit to start with. Its more of a loose fitting overall. As such, I don't think the average person needs them to be made to measure. They have no insulating factor, and you wear layered inner suit clothing for warmth. Medium weight tri-laminates are normally very puncture resistant and hard wearing. They tend to have a higher drag factor in the water than a close fitting neoprene suit. I see some companies use the term "Compressed neoprene", I'm not sure if that product really exists and its not marketing hype for high density 3 or 4mm neoprene. Neoprene suits are closer fitting, they have an insulating factor that tends to disappear as you go deeper due to compression. This type of a suit will change its buoyancy factor faster than a tri-laminate. The thicker the neoprene, the greater its insulating factor but the thicker it is, the harder it is to control your buoyancy on multi level diving. You can usually fin faster in a neoprene suit, because there is less drag. This handy if your bucking a strong current to get to a shot line, etc. Movment charactersitics, turning, changes in buoyancy, rolls and movement will be a little quicker in a neoprene suit. Neoprene natural insulating qualites mean you need less underclothing. Generally neoprene is not so durable a material for a drysuit as butyl-nylon or Cordura tri-laminates. Latex seals cuff and neck seals are more often than not found on tri-laminate suits. They are better seal but not so durable. Neoprene neck and cuff seals are warmer though they often stretch a little after use and leak a little. Neoprene seals tend to last longer. It used to be a choice of a back zip or diagonal front zip. Though I'm seeing suits with front zips like the whites but I've never tried them. Diagonal zips tend to break more often than back zips, (maybe its just me) replacing drysuit zips is very expensive. Shoulder dumps can sometimes get blocked by the inner suit material with certain combinations its may be necessary to wear an arm band, I have used an off-cut piece of tyre inner tube. I like a 3 or 4mm neoprene suit it doesn't last as long as a tri-laminate but I reckon the reduced drag helps me fin further and if necessary gives me greater ability to fight against a current and also reduces air consumption makes it worth it.

Just get a DPV, and then you won't need to fin at all. :D
 
Of the four divers in our group with front entry trilams from DCS three hate them. The one guy who has a back entry (me) loves it. Main complaint seems to be freedom of movement. For me I didn't feel comfortable putting on the front entry. At DEMA they talk to the DCS folks about it, and before they got very far with talking about their issues, he stops them and says "Front Entry right?".

Down side of back entry, its much easier to get zipped up if a friend (you trust) zips you up.

On the positive side the quality on the DCS suits has been good, granted trialam and not crushed. Only complaint is the boots wear out quick and have thin soles. I think they may have changed boots since I got mine.

What are you trying to do underwater that requires so much freedom of movement, as it were?

I get plenty of freedom of movement with my front-entry tri-lam suit. But then I am not wiggling like a worm everyplace I go either. Just holding onto my DPV handle, and zipping around!
 
As I observed before:
Which is best? I don't really know. I've had Unisuits, Jetsuits, Vikings, DUIs, Gates, O’Neil’s and a Polaris (Rubatex suit from a small Santa Cruz custom house) over the years. I currently have the Polaris which I prefer for shore diving, a Viking for polluted water (nothing else can really be disinfected) and a DUI that is a joy for boat diving. I use an old set of Unisuit woolies under the Polaris and a ripstop/holowfill/synthetic pile (the blue and gray, kinda baggy ski-suit like stuff) set of Viking underwear under the Viking and the DUI.

I've yet to find the single use that the tilam excels at, it is light, packing away small for travel, and dries quickly, perhaps it’s advantage is being second best at everything … no small feat.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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