What Have I Got?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Thanks, Do It Easy. Again, I haven't a clue. That's why I need to ask you fine folks.

You guys are great!
 
The ScubaPro (Faber) LP95s that I dove had original hydro dates in 1996 and 1997 so there's a possibility that yours could be from then as well (not sure the dates that ScubaPro distributed Faber tanks).

Personally I'd toss that valve, get a new one, and have the tank hydro'd and VIPd (and tumbled) if necessary. For $10, you certainly got a steal!!
 
You've got yourself either a Faber 95 (or they may call them 98) or a Faber 104 (or they may call them 108). Regardless, you got a great deal (so long as it passes hydro, otherwise, you've got yourself a very large door stop...). The valve is a bit funky. I've never seen a valve like that. For a single tank, I'm not a huge fan of them (in my opinion the tank is kind of fat), though they obviously work. For doubles they work great. - Kirk
 
do it easy:
The 122 is part of the serial number, not the size.

You're best bet would be to go by the size to figure out what tank you have.

If there is a plus after the original hydro stamp, then the "trade" volume will be calculated with a 2640 fill pressure, although it has to qualify for the plus rating at all subsequent hydro's. For example, 95 cft at 2640 psi, but only 86 cft at 2400 psi.

The picture looks like a LP95 and it appears to have been hydro tested at least once. Are you measuring the height with the boot on?


Yes, I did measure with the boot on (I have no idea how, even, to take it off).
 
SparticleBrane:
Personally I'd toss that valve, get a new one, and have the tank hydro'd and VIPd (and tumbled) if necessary. For $10, you certainly got a steal!!
nah, keep the valve- if the tank passes hydro and VIP, you might need it to plug the hole so that you can strip it and paint it later on.

Yes, I did measure with the boot on (I have no idea how, even, to take it off).
I just lay mine on their side and wiggle the boot off. You can also use a piece of wood and a mallet to drive it off, just work your way around slowly.
 
Well, folks, it's off to the ol' LDS tomorrow. Let you know the verdict.

Thanks!
 
The valve is a Scubapro ball valve. The idea being it was really quick to open, just a quarter turn of the lever. Another gorgeously-executed Scubapro solution to a non-existant need. Unfortunately, it came out at about the same time nitrox started to catch on, and an instant-opening valve is just what you DON'T want with high FO2s.

Trade you it for a real valve, if you don't like it...
 
Well, according to the very fine folks at Hollywood Divers, it's a LP95 with the world's funkiest valve. It's about to be hydro'd and get a new combo valve. Then, after I scrape off the peeling Scubapro decal, it'll be my new dive tank!

I'm one very excited dawggy!

And, Oxyhacker, I'll happily take you up on that trade if you'd have need of a valve like that.

Thanks all!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom