What glove system?

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Will this work glueless on a cf200x? Too small for what? Suit or hands?


The Bayonet system is glueless and goes over your existing wrist/suit seal. All there is to it is to squeeze the existing sea; between the bayonet and an inner ring. It is force fit and once set-up works great. It installs the same as the SiTech system with the exception of SiTech being orientation free and the Viking should be installed at a specific orientation so the tabs line up.

Size......my hands are big enough that even with the skimpy, cheap white cotton liners that come with the system, my hand scraped coming out. It was a real annoyance and rather painful after several dives. I had the largest size and the SiTech was about a 1/16" or so bigger on the ID and works great. So the size was only an issue because I apparently have bear paws for hands.
 
Si Tech makes 2 different dry glove systems. For very large hands you use the QCP system. It is designed for larger hands. Look on SI Tech's website to see the differance. They work great.
 
Thanks everyone.

I had the chance to look at some of the systems over the weekend -- while freezing my rear end off in a wetsuit.

Here is a summary of the systems I saw:

Dive Concepts
Don/Doff: Pop-on, pop-off
Glove connection: Glove goes over coupling ring and is held by O-ring. (Tricky to replace glove in the field since the outside surface of the glove goes against the coupling ring and the O-ring sits insde of the folded-over glove).
Suit connection: Suit ring is inside of suit sleeve (no independent wrist seal). Suit is held to ring with 2 O-rings and secured with neoprene band.

Viking bayonet (made by Si-Tech for the Viking brand)
Don/Doff: Rotate rings against each other with thumb tabs to lock and unlock.
Glove connection: Glove goes inside of coupling ring and is held by inner ring. Set of inner rings with different diameters accomodates for material thickness.
Suit connection: Suit ring is outside of sleeve (wrist seal can be left intact). Inner ring presses suit against outer ring. Set of inner rings with different diameter accomodates for material thickness.

Si-Tech QCP
Don/Doff: Rotate large(!) diameter captive ring to lock and unlock. (Can be problematic if stuck badly since glove and suit provide nothing solid to rotate against).
Glove connection: Glove goes inside of coupling ring and is held by inner ring. Set of inner rings with different diameters accomodates for material thickness.
Suit connection: Suit ring is outside of sleeve (wrist seal can be left intact). Inner ring presses suit against outer ring. Set of inner rings with different diameter accomodates for material thickness.

The way I see it, the big difference is whether you want to retain the wrists seals as a backup (or to use with wetgloves). If that is the case, DC is out.
For stuck Vikings you may need your teeth or a hard edge to push against. For badly stuck QCPs, another set of hands may be necessary.

Please correct and add info as necessary.

If you guys send me some Glove Porn I will assemble everything and we can make sticky out of it. This topic comes up often and even more experienced divers seem to scratch their heads over the useless manuals and descriptons on the companies' websites.
 
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I'll go with another vote forthe SI-tech system. I have the quick lock gloves and like them. They are simple to use and if you have bigger hands they give you enough room to get in and out of the suit.
 
When I get home from work, I'll try to remember to do some photographs of the Viking system. I think your summary is spot on, although using one's teeth to remove the rings isn't a big deal.
 
The simplest & best inexpensive dryglove solution is the DUI Dry 5 Glove System (or you can make your own by gluing on some wrist seals over a pair of Atlas Gloves). They are harder initially to d'on & d'off than the more convenient and expensive ring systems described above.

This is how you would rig them & put 'em on:
DIR-diver.com - Dryglove rigging
(I also emplace small plastic straws under the wrist seals to help equalize the glove & prevent painful hand squeeze and loss of dexterity at depths greater than 18m).
 
Anything that would work with neoprene wrist seals?
 
The simplest & best inexpensive dryglove solution is the DUI Dry 5 Glove System (or you can make your own by gluing on some wrist seals over a pair of Atlas Gloves). They are harder initially to d'on & d'off than the more convenient and expensive ring systems described above.

This is how you would rig them & put 'em on:
DIR-diver.com - Dryglove rigging
(I also emplace small plastic straws under the wrist seals to help equalize the glove & prevent painful hand squeeze and loss of dexterity at depths greater than 18m).

The advantage seems to be price, seal redundancy, and having no rings in the way when you want to get into the gear straps, get a lobster, etc.

If you make them yourself would you use a bottle or cone shaped seal on the glove?
 
Anything that would work with neoprene wrist seals?
The Diving Concepts Snap-OnTM Dryglove kit can be attached to existing latex or neoprene wrist seals. Dry Glove and Wrist System

The advantage seems to be price, seal redundancy, and having no rings in the way when you want to get into the gear straps, get a lobster, etc.

If you make them yourself would you use a bottle or cone shaped seal on the glove?
The Dry 5 Gloves I have use medium cone shaped seals; I have cone shaped wrist seals on one drysuit and bottle shaped on another; the gloves work fine with both, but again it's initially difficult to get a flush seal-to-seal contact without help from a dive buddy. Takes some time, practice & patience before you can d'on them yourself.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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