What din valve for Faber lp 95

[mrabdiver111]

Hey all, I just grabbed this Faber lp 95 steel tank w/ a 10% overfill on it, and I want to change the valve to accomodate my din style reg. My other two tanks are Worthington 100hp's (why I have din reg). So my question is, what valve should I get to put on the Faber tank thats din?

Any advice would help.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[JBRES1]

I use both Blue steel and Thermo Din/Pro valves on my LP95's.
The threads are the same as your HP100's. I think its 3/4-14 threads.
The burst disc should be rated at 4000 psi.
You can buy these valves on e-bay for about $30.00 ea. , but in
most cases they will either a 5000 psi or 5250 burst disc in them.
I have the 5,000 psi burst discs in mine.

Jim Breslin

 

[SparticleBrane]

If you can find a Thermo pro valve (does both DIN + yoke) for relatively cheap, get that.

 

[mrabdiver111]

A friend of mine suggested to me that I get a converter to put on my reg so that I can use the Faber LP with the yoke fitting and that way I can be capable of using din and yoke if I need to borrow a tank from somebody that ONLY has yoke valves. Makes sense considering the Faber is LP. No din really required.

Thanks guys.

Rob

 

[JBRES1]

Are your regs Din or Yoke ?
If you are looking for a valve to put on your tank , a pro valve is a good way to go. The pro valve can be used as a din or a yoke valve. You just unscrew the insert if you want to use it as a din valve.

A din to yoke converter is a nice thing to have if your 1st stage reg is a din style reg and the tank you want to use is only a yoke type valve.

Jim Breslin

 

[Deniz Doner]

Hey all, I just grabbed this Faber lp 95 steel tank w/ a 10% overfill on it, and I want to change the valve to accomodate my din style reg. My other two tanks are Worthington 100hp's (why I have din reg). So my question is, what valve should I get to put on the Faber tank thats din?

Any advice would help.

Thanks,
Rob

Hi mrabdiver111,

First of all if you are not qualified to removing/installing SCUBA tank valves please leave the job to a competent person. So many valve ejection accidents occurs all around the world because of removing the valve when the tank is full or installing wrong valve!

To determine what valve you need, please read the standardization written on tank body. TC (Transport Canada) or DOT (US Department Of Transportation) abbreviation on the tank means you need 3/4''-14NPSM tank valve. To the best of my knowledge tanks/valves other than TC & DOT standardization can not be used in USA. ( It still doesn't mean that your tank/valve within standardization!)

Please be aware that G3/4'' BSP has very similiar threads but it must NOT be used with TC & DOT tanks. (3/4''-14NPSM thread angle:60 degree, G3/4'' BSP thread angle:55 degree).

Better you take your tank to your LDS to make sure you are buying the correct valve for your tank. Anyway they will need to inspect threads & last hydrostatic test date etc. in order to install your new valve.

Another 2 way you can follow instead of buying a new valve;
1. You can buy ''INT to DIN'' adapter but to be honest it's safer to dive without
adapters.
2. You can ask to authorized dealer/service technician to convert your DIN first stage to
INT, this is possible with most of the first stages.

By the way if your DIN regulator to tank valve connector has 5 threads don't go for 300 BAR ( 4350 PSI ) valve, since these valves needs 7 threads your first stage sealing o-ring can not do the job.

Things explained here are my thoughts. For your/others safety please apply to user manuals, authorized dealers & service technicians.

Dive Safe, regards.

Deniz Doner

 

[NorthWoodsDiver]

scubatoys has thermo pro valves for $45 each and cave adventurers has dive rite modular valves for $45 also in either 200 (pro) or 300 bar din.

T

 

[SparticleBrane]

First of all if you are not qualified to removing/installing SCUBA tank valves please leave the job to a competent person. So many valve ejection accidents occurs all around the world because of removing the valve when the tank is full or installing wrong valve!

Perhaps where you are from, but not here. Nobody here sells M25 threaded valves, because only 3/4" NPSM valves are sold here in the US (aside from 50-year old steel 72s). It could just be me, but your post came across as "You are incompetent, so go have someone else do it for you." Come'on...



To the OP -- go to scubatoys.com and buy yourself a Thermo Pro/DIN valve for $45.

 

[halocline]

First of all if you are not qualified to removing/installing SCUBA tank valves please leave the job to a competent person. So many valve ejection accidents occurs all around the world because of removing the valve when the tank is full or installing wrong valve!
(snip)
1. You can buy ''INT to DIN'' adapter but to be honest it's safer to dive without
adapters.

How many "valve ejection accidents" have you experienced, out of curiosity?

What proof do you have that it is actually safer to dive without DIN adapters? Can you document a single incident of injury or death that was caused by a DIN adapter?

 

[Deniz Doner]

Perhaps where you are from, but not here. Nobody here sells M25 threaded valves, because only 3/4" NPSM valves are sold here in the US (aside from 50-year old steel 72s). It could just be me, but your post came across as "You are incompetent, so go have someone else do it for you." Come'on...

Dear SparticleBrane,

Thank you for your confirmation about the tank valves which are sold/used in the USA. Would be great to have same standardization all around the world.

It's not my business to determine who is competent or not. I guess I couldn't express myself properly because of my poor English language level, sorry for that.

Dive Safe, regards.

Deniz Doner