What 2nd has beat the G250?

[LEO1982]

Thanks. The current G260 has a carbon fiber shell. The carbon fiber G250 are hydro dip and then finished with 2K (SprayMax) urethane clear. The finish is tough and resistant to solvents but anything can be scratched if one works at it hard enough.

I was dipping some motorcycle parts and did a couple of my G250 fleet to see how it would turn out. I like them. I also found on Thinguniverse G250 bump covers and had an online printer make me four from the file.

I used a red metallic and blue metallic base coat (OHW products) intended to adhere dip films. It is what I had bought for the motorcycle project .

Great, time to give the G250 a new look! Does it need to be sanded before spraying the primer?

Greetings from afar
LEO

 

[Nemrod]

Great, time to give the G250 a new look! Does it need to be sanded before spraying the primer?

Greetings from afar
LEO

I degreased only. It would not hurt to use a 600 or 1000 grit paper to very lightly scuff and then degrease a second time. The OHW product I used does not require adhesion promoters etc. You will need to follow the recommendations of the materials you use. IMO, and my experience, the polyamide material that the G250 case is made from does not require flaming prior to coating.

Truthfully, I have had good success on gun stocks using Krylon as a base. But Krylon and similar do not remain reactive with the hydrodip film but for about a day whereas some hydrodip specific products remain open for several weeks.

There are new 1K topcoats available but I have never used anything but a 2K clear. The problem with 2K is it is a bottle in a bottle and once mixed it has a pot life of maybe a few days. The 2K chemicals also produce isocyanate gas so you really need to use forced air source (scuba?) for breathing or, hmmm, for a small project, wearing appropriate eye protection, I practice my free dive breath holding skills, . You, know, I am the author of "safety is way over rated" so -----. One exposure is not going to hurt or kill you but we do want to limit our life exposure to such things for our long term health, you know, so we can keep scuba diving.

Selfie, night dive in Red Sea, G250s on a Mark 2 Evo:



Edit to add, just for general information, why do I take these weird selfies, I always take an initial shot with my camera, a selfie, on descent, to set my camera and strobe settings to ball park for the dive conditions. Or sometimes I will just roll over and take a shot something like this for settings check:

 

[LEO1982]

Cool photos
Thanks again for the tutorial! This information is very useful!

 

[TMurrr]

I can't help but taking a (biased) look at which regs the guy who designed the G250 (Dean Garraffa) designed next after the G250, and, more importantly, what he felt needed changing. It shows a nice evolution:

G250: Milestone, gold standard. High performing, balanced 2nd stage made of plastic and with adjustable venturi.

G500: a) smaller, and b) seat saver.

G500 mk2: a) still as small, b) still seat saver, c) microadjuster.

Atomic T1, a) as small as G500, b) simpler seat saver, c) microadjuster, d) elliptic exhaust diaphragm for better WOB while keeping case geometry fault minimal, e) no corrosion thanks to titanium, and f) interchangeable exhaust Ts.

Of course, that evolution might not be worth much to someone who feels the G250 breathes better for them. There are subjective aspects as well.

View attachment 883222

+1 voting for Atomic Ti 2nds. (T1/T2/T3 etc)

The durability (Ti) and parts interchangeability really does it for me. Its a single service kit (apart from the TFX) so its almost impossible to screw up as someone who self-services and tunes my own.

Small style points can be had too like taking a T3 face plate but using a black Z3 cover ring for it (like @Geo7's pic) for a more 'blacked out' and under the radar look. I personally find the T2X 2nds color way far too blingy - but to each their own.

 

[Geo7]

+1 I find the T2X has the best looking design of them all, yet like you I prefer an understated look.

 

[TMurrr]

+1 I find the T2X has the best looking design of them all, yet like you I prefer an understated look.

I can make my full titanium T series 2nds appear like beat up Z series by swapping a couple plastic pieces and using an unstamped (older T1/T2) fully titanium 1st. Only a trained eye that can spot the titanium on the T1 1st stage really distinguish mine from the rest on the dive boat.

Most of my T3's use black cover rings, harvested from Z series color kits as well. I'd make my own custom face plates if I could, something generic, symmetrical, unbranded and understated... maybe a QR code to a save-the-reef donation page.

 

[poseident]

Let the battle begin!

Rob, it was over before it began..... D400. Full stop.