Weighting options for single tank BP/W

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Isn't your wing already inflated when you jump in? I don't hear much about negative entries except in cases of getting down in ridiculous current (in which I simply wouldn't dive).

I've done a few negative entries in the St. Lawrence. It's a breathtaking way to dive a wreck: Into the water, then down and onto the wreck with the current like paratroopers. But getting back to the topic...

the rig in question is considered balanced by GUE standards. It's neutral at 10ft with 300psi, and in the worst case is swimmable to the surface with a full tank and either drysuit or wing total failure.

If it's balanced, then everything sounds great to me. My rig is also balanced so for the moment I don't use any ditchable weight either.
 
They won't work with single tanks. They don't even work well with double tanks.

Tom

The capacity of the DSS tail weight pouch depends on the diameter of the cylinders used and the geometry of the back plate.

With a flatter plate, DSS plates for example and smaller diameter tanks like 7.25" diameter al 80's, 5 lbs can be used without "pushing" on the backplate.

With 8 inch tanks and or steeply bend plates with deep center channels there is less room. FredT plates have very deep center channels.

Of course based on the past exchanges I've had with you I'm sure you already knew this but found it more fun to complain than explain.

Tobin
 
The tail pocket pushes the BP away from the tanks. Instead of the tanks riding on the BP, it's now riding on the tail weight. I've not been able to get more than 2lbs into a tail weight without it making the BP bulge out (and wobble). I use a Fred T BP which has a fairly significant bend to it. If you're using a shallow bend BP like the OMS, you will probably have more room to play with.

Tom

Got it. They seem to work ok w/ my rig. Thanks
 
With 8 inch tanks and or steeply bend plates with deep center channels there is less room. FredT plates have very deep center channels.

Of course based on the past exchanges I've had with you I'm sure you already knew this but found it more fun to complain than explain.

It wasn't meant to be a complaint. I thought I explained myself pretty fully in my second post. If there's a grudge I don't know about, can we drop it?

Tom
 
It wasn't meant to be a complaint. I thought I explained myself pretty fully in my second post. If there's a grudge I don't know about, can we drop it?

Tom

They won't work with single tanks. They don't even work well with double tanks.

Tom

Your application is not typical, and you knew that when you made the blanket statement above.

How is that helpful to anyone?

Your subsequent post did clarify, but only after others challenged your first post.

Tobin
 
I think you should be a little more pleasant to your customers.
 
That is one reason I like the Hammerhead plate, and STA, close to 12 lbs right there. You could make a channel weight, and attache that to the plate. That would knock 10lbs out. You say your rig is STA'less and that sounds like DSS. They sell weight plates. You could also make your own weight plates.

I put an ankle weight on the top of my tank. That is only a couple of pounds. There are a lot of ways to put weight on a BC, but keep in mind that it can impact trim.

The DUI weight harness is likely your best option simply because it is about the best weight belt out there. IMO, a combination of things maybe a better solution vs. just one option.
 
Another question: How do I determine (given these variables)how much weight should be ditchable? If I'm close to neutral with an empty tank at my safety stop is the ditchable portion the weight of the gas (about 5-6lb's).

I'm not sure this is the DIR answer, so pardon if it is not. Ditchable weight is not the issue, but rather the ability to swim up a rig in the event of bladder or drysuit failure. If one can swim up the rig fully weighted, than zero ditchable weight is required.

This maybe a hot button, not sure, but that is how I view things even if I do wear a weight belt that can be dumped.
 
I'm not sure this is the DIR answer, so pardon if it is not. Ditchable weight is not the issue, but rather the ability to swim up a rig in the event of bladder or drysuit failure. If one can swim up the rig fully weighted, than zero ditchable weight is required.

Swimming up the rig is important, but.....

For cold water wetsuit diving I want enough ditchable weight to ensure the diver can get positive at the surface with a failed BC. That can be as little as 4 lbs if the diver is properly weighted.

In warm water a properly weighted diver usually needs so little ballast that they have to ditch their rig, as the rig is their ballast.

Tobin
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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