Weighting options for single tank BP/W

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DaleC

Contributor
Messages
4,981
Reaction score
2,333
Location
Leftcoast of Canada
# of dives
500 - 999
I just got my BP/W and am looking for some DIR weighting options.
With my winter undergarments and an Al80 I need 36lb's of ballast. My BP weighs 4-5lb's so that leaves 30 - 32 lb's. My rig doesn't use a standard STA so a STA weight is out and I don't have a can light (yet).
From what I've read DIR suggests putting the weight on a belt but that seems like too much to me (I tried 28 and the belt wants to slide off). Can I split the weight by securing 10-12lb's on the BP and putting 20 on the belt?
Thoughts, options, suggestions?
 
Just load up with weight til your back hurts... then add a little more. That should get you down. :wink: A steel 130 tank should help too.

Get some trim weight pouches to secure to the tank bands 10lbs (XS Scuba)
ditchable weight pouches on HOG harness 10lbs(Northeast scuba supply has sale on Dive Rite)
ankle weights 3lbs (you already have them)
STA with weight 6lbs (anyone will do... XS Scuba makes a nice weight pouch that rides along the STA... just add your own shot weight)
ditchable Weight belt 12lbs (you already have this)

PS I have lots of soft weights lying around...
 
As long as you have enough ditchable weight to stay at the surface given a complete wing or drysuit failure, it's fine to move weight off your belt. For example, you can simulate a weighted STA by using trim weights that attach to the camband straps.
 
Hi Dale:

The first thing I would do, is see how you act in the water with a BP/W and your other garb. Now everyone has their own way of weighting and achieving neutral buoyancy, but try a near empty tank (500 psi) when you are experimenting. Have spare weights handy, and drop or add as needed. I will assume you know what to do. Now as far as dispersal of weights, remember, as long as you can ditch some weight to achieve buoyancy because of some failure as described earlier by Gombessa, you're golden. A steel tank as described earlier is an excellent choice, but avoid the ankle weights. A canister light will help, but I would see about some weight for your backplate. Tobin's DeepSeaSupply has what you need. Until you get a canister light, or even when you do, I would stick with a weight belt and some weight, just so you could ditch something in an emergency.

Kind regards,
Thomas
 
Last edited:
If your belt sliding off is the problem, then consider a weight harness, like the DUI weight & trim. There's nothing "not DIR" about it, and it solves the problem.

Moving some weights to trim pockets on the tank cam straps isn't a bad idea ... but I wouldn't consider moving more than 4 to 6 lbs there, unless it's truly needed to maintain proper trim.

If you purchased a DSS plate, then the weight plates are a nice option.

Whatever you decide, the "DIR" solution is to position your weights for proper trim and to have adequate "ditchable" weight to maintain buoyancy at the surface in the event of a wing failure.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
Just load up with weight til your back hurts... then add a little more. That should get you down. :wink: A steel 130 tank should help too.

Get some trim weight pouches to secure to the tank bands 10lbs (XS Scuba)
ditchable weight pouches on HOG harness 10lbs(Northeast scuba supply has sale on Dive Rite)
ankle weights 3lbs (you already have them)
STA with weight 6lbs (anyone will do... XS Scuba makes a nice weight pouch that rides along the STA... just add your own shot weight)
ditchable Weight belt 12lbs (you already have this)

PS I have lots of soft weights lying around...

I hope this is meant to be humor. If it isn't ... and considering you're new ... please keep in mind what forum you're in and read the rules for posting in this forum.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
Here's another idea: This is a tail weight pouch from DeepSeaSupply. I use it when I'm using twin AL80's w/ a 4# soft weight (and a DS). I'm not sure you whether you can use it on your single tank rig... maybe...

https://www.deepseasupply.com/index.php?product=10

Also, depending upon what type of BP/W rig you have, someone may already manufacture a lead insert for the single tank adapter - sort of like the V weights for doubles. I think Halcyon has one.

I also like the steel tank idea. You can trim off at least 4# and have more gas on your back to boot. A LP85/95 or HP100 may work nicely.

It sounds like you're diving in pretty cold water - what bottom times do you get with an AL80 (I know it varies by depth)? I'm thinking that a 3000PSI (77/80 Cubic Ft) fill on the surface will go south when you get into frigid waters due to our buddy Charles' and his law. Just wondering. I don't do much (really ANY) diving up north. I'm spoiled in S. Fl.

Cheers!!
 
If adding weight plates (like the DSS back plate and extra weight plates) is possible, that's a very good route. Also, if you can go from a positively buoyant Al80 to a negatively buoyant steel tank, that will allow you to remove some extra weight from your belt.

As Gombessa pointed out, you need to make sure that you don't put yourself into a dangerous situation if you have a catastrophic wing failure. If you are so negative that you either can't swim your rig up to the surface (when the tank is full - at its heaviest point) without the aid of your wing or drysuit, or you cannot stay at the surface, you will need ditchable weight. If you find that neither of these are an issue, you can take weight off your belt.

Putting weight onto the back plate can be very helpful because it means that all or most of your weight is directly above your lungs, which may help trim you out better. But you'll just have to play with it to figure out what the ideal configuration for you is.
 
Thanks all so far.
I know I can shave weight off by switching to summer undergarments and using steel tanks but I'm going to mount doubles anyways and can't afford even more tanks right now. 36lb's is my worst case scenario (Al 80's and winter undergarments) that I am trying to solve for. Currently I have quick ditch pockets (from my other BC) that hold 10lb's each but I suspect they wouldn't be DIR compliant? I keep looking at those plastic buckles as a failure points.

Here's a pic to show some options I have thought of. Feel free to provide feedback:

99047.jpg


1. I could mount weights on the waistband (lead coloured weight).
2. I could securely mount weights on the plate itself (black coloured weights) this would be like the DSS plates.
3. I could do neither/either 1 or 2 and keep using the quick ditch pockets + belt.

Another question: How do I determine (given these variables)how much weight should be ditchable? If I'm close to neutral with an empty tank at my safety stop is the ditchable portion the weight of the gas (about 5-6lb's).

I never had to think about this before with my poodle jacket when almost all my weight was ditchable :confused6:
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom