V-weight

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jonnythan once bubbled...


The wing still bolts to the bp, right? That way the lower bolt will keep the p-weight from slipping out.

You can bolt the wing to the bp if you wish but will be hard with the channel weight in the way.You could always place a wing nut with a bolt and pour around it so you something to bolt the wing too. There is really no need to bolt the wing to the plate as the cam bands also hold the wing in place once everything is tightened.

It can be a pain to change tanks on boat with everything flopping around once the cam bands are loosened.
 
jonnythan once bubbled...
I'll probably be pouring this weekend if the bp is in by then.
1. Eye/face protection.

2. Well ventilated work area and/or respirator.

3. Dry mold... don't pour molten lead onto anything wet or it will explode in your face.

TIPS:
you can place a lumps of plumber's putty over the bolt holes and that will make room for the bolt heads securing your wing to the plate.

Also... regular masking tape will plug holes... two layers if you are concerned about burn through.
 
Uncle Pug once bubbled...

1. Eye/face protection.

2. Well ventilated work area and/or respirator.

3. Dry mold... don't pour molten lead onto anything wet or it will explode in your face.

I was planning on doing it in the backyard with a fan at my back, wearing work goggles, jeans, a flannel shirt, and a jacket.

Uncle Pug once bubbled...

TIPS:
you can place a lumps of plumber's putty over the bolt holes and that will make room for the bolt heads securing your wing to the plate.

Also... regular masking tape will plug holes... two layers if you are concerned about burn through.

I figured I'd use plumber's putty (I actually have some in the basement) and keep the lead from extending as far as the holes.

Don't I want to keep those free?
 
Neighbor #1: (as Johnny's Patton Fan whafts lead fumes and burning masking tape fumes over the once friendly garden wall...) "Whew....what is that smell...?"

Neighbor #2: "Oh, its just Johnny (cough)..."

Neighbor #1: "What's that (wheeze) wacky kid up to this time (gag)...?"

Johnny: (going Notting Hill because he can't find adequate eye protection, so he's wearing his back up mask... looking very mad scientist meets voodoo child - hovering over a cast iron dutch oven, a roaring crawfish broiler, a howling patton fan and sacraficing/throwing large turd-like objects into this cooking pot, he replies) "Hi neighbors! Just making a P-V-Channel weight for my ... (seeing the blank stares, and watering eyes of his kacking neighbors....) Oh, never mind... Want some cobler?"

Maybe the fan isn't the best idea for, you know - community relations. Just a thought.

Be safe.

K
 
I made a few v-weight of different sizes. They come in handy if you change drysuits or go from salt to fresh water.

I made a mold out of wood. Very crude and simple. Then I crumbled up aluminum foil to make space for the bands. Then I lined it with a sheet of aluminum foil so the lead wouldn't leak out. Works great. Then wait 30 minutes for it to totally cool. I made mistakes the first two tries. First time I didn't use aluminum foil and the lead leaked all over the driveway. Second try I took it out of the mold to quickly and it broke. Third, fourth, fifth, and sixth times worked great. (I've found a lot of lead over the years.)

I used a coalman camp stove and an old kitchen pot to melt the lead.

When you drill holes for the bolts be sure to use oil when your drilling. It made a huge difference for me.
 
a good primer is here:

http://diverlink.com/gear/diy-leadweights.htm

Be aware that if using an Aluminum pot it's a one-time use and the melt must be started slowly until the entire bottom of the pot is covered about 1/2" deep in molten lead. Aluminum goes into solution into molten lead, but it does go in slowly. Repeated use of the same aluminum pot, or overheating the pot, will eventually result in a "blow out" dumping molten lead about the area, and often over you. I have had good long term luck with cast iron and carbon steel melt pots. My big 400 pound and 2800 pound bottom drop pots are made from steel (old propane and water tanks) and I even have used welded steel #10 cans (not solder sealed ones) for a one time mix in a pinch.

Almost any oil or wax can be used as a flux. Beeswax is simply a bit less flamable. Be aware that it's not unusual for the flux to ignite when working over an open flame source, so site the pot to allow for it, and keep the hair at a safe distance while stirring it in.
 
That threw up a picture of their "first try" at melting the lead, that included a picture of a melted alum pot cast into the bushes and lead all over their driveway and stove...

That was a great pic. Scary stuff there...

Be safe
 
FredT once bubbled...
a good primer is here:

http://diverlink.com/gear/diy-leadweights.htm

Be aware that if using an Aluminum pot it's a one-time use and the melt must be started slowly until the entire bottom of the pot is covered about 1/2" deep in molten lead. Aluminum goes into solution into molten lead, but it does go in slowly. Repeated use of the same aluminum pot, or overheating the pot, will eventually result in a "blow out" dumping molten lead about the area, and often over you. I have had good long term luck with cast iron and carbon steel melt pots. My big 400 pound and 2800 pound bottom drop pots are made from steel (old propane and water tanks) and I even have used welded steel #10 cans (not solder sealed ones) for a one time mix in a pinch.

Almost any oil or wax can be used as a flux. Beeswax is simply a bit less flamable. Be aware that it's not unusual for the flux to ignite when working over an open flame source, so site the pot to allow for it, and keep the hair at a safe distance while stirring it in.

The link you gave is broken.

Flux? Everything I've been reading just says basically melt and pour.
 

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