V-weight

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No STA. The whole setup is still in UPS' hands at the moment :wink:

If I follow the directions on that website, I'll have a bolt sticking out of the plate right into the center of the wing and tank, right? I see how it wouldn't be an issue for doubles.. that's just dead space anyway. The lateral bolt seems kinda clunky.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll send UP a link to this thread :wink:
 
sells P-weights for both single tanks as well as doubles. He also sells V-weights, but you are focusing on P-weights.

His prices are the best. I just bought a 10 lb V-weight in Hoodsport, of the Halcyon mold, and a 10 lb P-weight from Fred. If I'm not mistaken Fred wants around $25 + shipping, the other was around $55.

I cannot speak highly enough about the quality of FredT's work. I recommend you consider his stuff, unless you really want to pour your own.

Doc
 
Doc Intrepid once bubbled...
sells P-weights for both single tanks as well as doubles. He also sells V-weights, but you are focusing on P-weights.

His prices are the best. I just bought a 10 lb V-weight in Hoodsport, of the Halcyon mold, and a 10 lb P-weight from Fred. If I'm not mistaken Fred wants around $25 + shipping, the other was around $55.

I cannot speak highly enough about the quality of FredT's work. I recommend you consider his stuff, unless you really want to pour your own.

Doc

Actually, I really wanted to buy a FredT backplate, and had just gotten a complete price quote from him when I found the Halcyon bp plus harness for about 40% less than I could get the FredT plate and harness. I'm really quite broke right now, so I couldn't justify getting FredT to make the plate.

If my own weight pouring doesn't go well, I'll ask him. My plate is the Halcyon though.. I'll figure it out. I'd still appreciate comments on the pouring process though, I've never melted lead :wink:
 
Actually you dont even need a bolt to hold it in as you can make slots to pass the cam straps through the channel weight to hold it in place.Thats how i made the last one.Fred made mine so it can either be bolted to the STA or use cam straps.And yes fred does do good work :D
 
lal7176 once bubbled...
Actually you dont even need a bolt to hold it in as you can make slots to pass the cam straps through the channel weight to hold it in place.Thats how i made the last one.Fred made mine so it can either be bolted to the STA or use cam straps.And yes fred does do good work :D

That's another question I had. Do the cam straps go through the backplate as well, or just the wing? Some pictures I see (such as this one) don't have slots, but others (like this one) do.

I guess I don't need the bolt... even if the cam straps don't go through the plate, I can always just duct tape the weight into the channel. Making slots in either the plate or the weight seems like quite a bit of work, but I think I'd still like something a little more professional than duct tape, so I might use the lateral bolt idea anyway.

Hm.. will molten lead melt nylon webbing? :wink:
 
jonnythan once bubbled...


That's another question I had. Do the cam straps go through the backplate as well, or just the wing? Some pictures I see (such as this one) don't have slots, but others (like this one) do.

I guess I don't need the bolt... even if the cam straps don't go through the plate, I can always just duct tape the weight into the channel. Making slots in either the plate or the weight seems like quite a bit of work, but I think I'd still like something a little more professional than duct tape, so I might use the lateral bolt idea anyway.

Hm.. will molten lead melt nylon webbing? :wink:

Yes molten lead will melt your webbing.

Be sure to pass the cam straps through the backplate.If you use something to place through the slots in the back plate the lead will form arond it making the slots needed in the channel weight for your straps to pass through holding everything in place.

The only time the straps dont pass through the backplate is when you use a seperate STA.
 
jonnythan once bubbled...


That's another question I had. Do the cam straps go through the backplate as well, or just the wing? Some pictures I see (such as this one) don't have slots, but others (like this one) do.


The plates without the slots require the use of an external STA for use with single tanks.

The plates with the slots work with the newer style pioneer wing with the built in STA.

Do you have the newer style wing with the built in STA?
 
lal7176 once bubbled...
Do you have the newer style wing with the built in STA?

Yup. So it sounds like I needn't worry about the bolt at all, I can just pass the cam straps around it to hold it in place.

The wing still bolts to the bp, right? That way the lower bolt will keep the p-weight from slipping out.
 
channel weights are easy to pour if you have
a mold: a SS plate with the holes taped shut will work.

a means to melt lead: a propane crab cooker with cast iron pot works great for this.

lead: wheel weights work but you need to skim the scum and steel clips off of the molten lead before pouring.

Pouring slots for the cam bands isn't a big deal either if you drive a piece of aluminum stock through the slots and then drive it back out after the pour.

Making grooves for the cam bands is the tricky part and that is what I have done with the two I made. Instead of having to thread the cam bands through slots the bands just fit into the grooves to hold the weight in place. This means that the weight can be removed and replaced simply by loosening the cam bands.

BTW... I just poured a V-weight yesterday... and here is a tip:
level your mold before the pour :D and if the lead is lumpy on top use an acetylene torch to smooth it out. :wink:
 
Thanks for all the help guys, I'll probably be pouring this weekend if the bp is in by then.

I'll let you know how it goes!

-Jon
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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