Uwatec smart pro battery

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The program was written using Microsoft Visual C++ 2010 Express, since C++ is the language I'm still most familiar with after years of not coding, and Microsoft's IDE was the only free one I was able to find.
I'm not sure .Net is needed, if you have VC++ 2010 runtime libraries installed, but then again it's Microsoft, so you never know. :wink:

There's not much I can do about connection issues - these devices are a bit quirky, have a weak IrDA and they like to hang up communication if the connection has been interrupted. Like you already discovered, the key here is persistence.

When i wrote USBRT, I tried to figure out if any other setting could be hacked like battery level. If i recall correctly I tried to find out how to calibrate pressure and set proper time as well, but I guess I made no progress with that. Also, you know, I experimented on my own two private computers, sending semi-random characters and each time crossing my fingers that they wouldn't be bricked. So once i found out what I wanted, I promptly stopped experimenting.

Another thing - you know that there is absolutely no need for the internal clock to be synchronized with anything, since the computer doesn't show current time anyway. As long as you get into a habit of uploading the logs to SmartTrak soon after a dive, and make sure to upload all of them before replacing the battery, you'll be all set. When downloading a dive, SmartTrak checks the device time, compares it to local time, and saves the dive to it's database using local time. So even if you had the battery go dead for years, then replaced it and dived, the next dive would be saved in SmartTrak with the right time. The old ones would be all wrong of course if you wanted to import them again, but you already have them in SmartTrak, right? :)

Cheers!
 
Off topic!
This is about Aladin Air Z nitrox.
Any body know if the final procedure for starting the unit is the same as Aladin Pro Nitrox ie. by using a 3V battery.
Much obliged.
 
Guys, please could you offer some advice?

I have followed the procedure described in the preceding 11/12pages on resetting the Smart Pro dive computer...to date, I have:

Soldered in new battery
Lifted pin 1 (mine came up without de-soldering or cutting it - I used an oring tool to gently lift it)
The device powered on and gave me flashing temp and spanner (service) icon
Reset using earth to pin 1 reset - a beep was heard
Temp icon stabilised and stop flashing a few hours later
Calibrated using dedegragonslayer USBRT tool - battery set to 99%

However, the challenge I have now is that the spanner or service icon is still showing next to the battery. I have tried desoldering battery and resetting again however as per one of the earlier posts this does not seem to avail itself or work - any ideas on what I need to do to reset the service status please?

Thanks!
 
However, the challenge I have now is that the spanner or service icon is still showing next to the battery. I have tried desoldering battery and resetting again however as per one of the earlier posts this does not seem to avail itself or work - any ideas on what I need to do to reset the service status please?
Thanks!
Give it 24hrs! It happened to me and all was well eventually..
 
Centrals: Yes.
Have to re-solder and then soldered the battery twice. 99% shown but the response is pretty erratic and slow! I could not acces to the dive plan mode but I can live with that.
Will test it in few wks time.
 
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Just for info and if you have not seen other threads on the subject, IrDA devices do not work with Windows 10.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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