Deep South Divers
Contributor
Sweet! 
Ultima Dry Glove System question
- Thread starter Basking Ridge Diver
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Another way without a tool. I used to do it this way but the glove would slip from the solid object (desk, table, my knee) when stretching the glove so I began using the clamp to hold the glove on the ring while I stretch the rest of it over,
The Ultima system system is identical to other round ring systems. This video shows how to install the glove side and suit rings. Obviously you have to use a different method with pvc gloves or latex gloves with a liner but the suit ring method is the same. I prefer to dive without seals but I still have to have a layer between the suit ring and the soft ring glued inside the cuff of the suit. I use eith an old seal or I us this method then cut the seal enough to fit my hands through easily.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Same here, Max... Diving "wrist seal-less" is awesome. No fiddly tubes or thumb loops, and donning and doffing is a breeze. I did the same... I cut the suit-side ends off of an old set of latex seals and sandwiched those between the suit-side glove ring and the soft ring glued into the suit that came with my SiTech QCS Oval rings.
Is the QCP (SiTech round) soft ring the same size? Can these Waterproof Ultima rings be used with QCP suit-side soft rings as well, or are the QCP suit-side soft rings a different size?
The last video you posted from Simply Scuba is the one I watched before assembling my rings. In it, the guy assembles a lined glove as an unlined latex glove. This is wrong and will most certainly lead to a leak.
Plain latex, neoprene or nitrile unlined "dishwashing" style gloves can be assembled this way... But anything with a liner - even a low-lint, plain fabric surface - needs to be installed in reverse... With the o-ring inside the glove rather than outside. This includes all black, orange and blue PVC-based gloves from Ansell or Showa such as the 440, 660, the KV660 and more.
...And for anyone following, it is THIS "o-ring on the inside installation" that is giving us problems.
I had so much difficulty with it initially that I installed a set of Showa 707's first, which are very thin, unlined gloves. I installed them with the o-ring on the outside, as is shown in the Simply Scuba video... Then wore a wet overglove ON TOP of that to protect the glove. I simply wanted to see if it'd work.
Worked great... Until I holed the right 707 between where my wet glove ended and the suit ring. Instant flood.
On that dive I still had a set of silicone wrist seals installed, with a thumb loop left poking out for equalization. My whole arm flooded. Had I not had the thumb loop poking through, my arm would have STILL flooded... Wrist seals are pretty much worthless on my tendony, muscular forearms. They leak everywhere, and yes, I think I've tried just about everything... Including wearing them high on a shaven arm and lubed with KY.
...Which is why I wanted dry gloves... So I could finally get dry arms.
Is the QCP (SiTech round) soft ring the same size? Can these Waterproof Ultima rings be used with QCP suit-side soft rings as well, or are the QCP suit-side soft rings a different size?
The last video you posted from Simply Scuba is the one I watched before assembling my rings. In it, the guy assembles a lined glove as an unlined latex glove. This is wrong and will most certainly lead to a leak.
Plain latex, neoprene or nitrile unlined "dishwashing" style gloves can be assembled this way... But anything with a liner - even a low-lint, plain fabric surface - needs to be installed in reverse... With the o-ring inside the glove rather than outside. This includes all black, orange and blue PVC-based gloves from Ansell or Showa such as the 440, 660, the KV660 and more.
...And for anyone following, it is THIS "o-ring on the inside installation" that is giving us problems.
I had so much difficulty with it initially that I installed a set of Showa 707's first, which are very thin, unlined gloves. I installed them with the o-ring on the outside, as is shown in the Simply Scuba video... Then wore a wet overglove ON TOP of that to protect the glove. I simply wanted to see if it'd work.
Worked great... Until I holed the right 707 between where my wet glove ended and the suit ring. Instant flood.
On that dive I still had a set of silicone wrist seals installed, with a thumb loop left poking out for equalization. My whole arm flooded. Had I not had the thumb loop poking through, my arm would have STILL flooded... Wrist seals are pretty much worthless on my tendony, muscular forearms. They leak everywhere, and yes, I think I've tried just about everything... Including wearing them high on a shaven arm and lubed with KY.
...Which is why I wanted dry gloves... So I could finally get dry arms.
Last edited:
I bought a dozen pairs of gauntlet gloves on Ebay. They are longer and thinner than the Showa pvc gloves so they go on the rings much easier. They have slimmer fingers so I can only wear thin liner gloves inside them. I keep them as a backup in case I tear a thicker pvc glove.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Probably a good call. I should do the same... Or carry with me some spare PVCs and some sort of tool for replacing gloves with me at the job site.
What color are your eBay gloves? Do they have a brand name on them? Ansell? Showa?
What color are your eBay gloves? Do they have a brand name on them? Ansell? Showa?
They're a generic glove similar to Wells Lamony work gloves.
Wells Lamont Farm PVC Gloves
I haven't had a leak with them but they're not as warm as the Showa Atlas gloves with a wool liner or wearing a thin wool glove inside.
Wells Lamont Farm PVC Gloves
I haven't had a leak with them but they're not as warm as the Showa Atlas gloves with a wool liner or wearing a thin wool glove inside.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Nice.
Sounds like the Showa 660 ESD: SHOWA 660 ESD Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves
Lined, but a thin liner.
The Showa 660 is the blue version (same properties, different color and I think what most people are running): SHOWA 660 Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves
That's what I'm running.
The 660 with kelvar (for greater puncture and tear resistance, but with some loss in flexibility) is the KV660: SHOWA KV660 Aramid Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves These are the ones I WANTED to use, but wasn't able to get them onto the Ultima rings because they're even less stretchy than the regular 660's.
The 490 has a warm, "furry" interior that's basically a winter version of the 660: SHOWA 490 | Showa Gloves
All of the above are going to require an "interior o-ring installation."
The 707 is a very thin, totally unlined glove made of nitrile... Think "dishwashing glove." SHOWA 707 | Showa Gloves
The 707 can be installed with the easier "o-ring on the outside" method... Because the interior of the glove can be sealed easily... But as I mentioned above, it was pretty easily to hole, even with a protective wet overglove worn over it.
Sounds like the Showa 660 ESD: SHOWA 660 ESD Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves
Lined, but a thin liner.
The Showa 660 is the blue version (same properties, different color and I think what most people are running): SHOWA 660 Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves
That's what I'm running.
The 660 with kelvar (for greater puncture and tear resistance, but with some loss in flexibility) is the KV660: SHOWA KV660 Aramid Oil Resistant | Showa Gloves These are the ones I WANTED to use, but wasn't able to get them onto the Ultima rings because they're even less stretchy than the regular 660's.
The 490 has a warm, "furry" interior that's basically a winter version of the 660: SHOWA 490 | Showa Gloves
All of the above are going to require an "interior o-ring installation."
The 707 is a very thin, totally unlined glove made of nitrile... Think "dishwashing glove." SHOWA 707 | Showa Gloves
The 707 can be installed with the easier "o-ring on the outside" method... Because the interior of the glove can be sealed easily... But as I mentioned above, it was pretty easily to hole, even with a protective wet overglove worn over it.
Last edited:
Deep South Divers
Contributor
I haven't tried the 720's yet... They appear similar to the 660's, but are made of nitrile instead of PVC... Which in general, has better abrasion properties than PVC. If you look at the ANSI numbers, however, you can see that the 660's have superior qualities that one might want in a dryglove... Perhaps the 720's are thinner than the 660's and that negates the better material properties? SHOWA 720R | Showa Gloves
I did order a set of NSK 24's... Which look and feel like the 660's, but with a different surface finish and a much darker shade of blue. These are nitrile. SHOWA NSK 24 | Showa Gloves
There's several more there at Showa I'm interested in, too... And that's just the drygloves that Showa makes. Ansell makes a whole load of them too... And then there's our gloves that we like from each manufacturer that we use for wetsuits...
Literally, I have hundreds of different gloves in different sizes that we've tried for work.
I did order a set of NSK 24's... Which look and feel like the 660's, but with a different surface finish and a much darker shade of blue. These are nitrile. SHOWA NSK 24 | Showa Gloves
There's several more there at Showa I'm interested in, too... And that's just the drygloves that Showa makes. Ansell makes a whole load of them too... And then there's our gloves that we like from each manufacturer that we use for wetsuits...
Literally, I have hundreds of different gloves in different sizes that we've tried for work.
My favorites are the 460s. They're more difficult to get onto the rings and when they get wet you have to run them through a few cycles in the dryer but they're very warm. I can still manipulate my gear and push camera buttons with them on.
Similar threads
