Uhoh?? compressor issue..

[pescador775]

Trichlorethylene or trichloroethane is my preferred cleaner. However, the EPA has such a burr up its butt that I just gave up and went over to ENSOLV (n-propyl bromine). The CRC product is interesting but I only use solvents on dive gear which is approved for oxygen; that way, I won't get things mixed up on different, DIY jobs, absent minded that I be. When in a situation like Scubadoo, I would use whatever I could get. If there is an auto parts shop I might look for brake cleaner or degreaser like CRC and follow with a flush. That might not work, though it would be worth a try. WD-40 is a lubricant of sorts, it is mostly kerosene and perfume with some other spirits thrown in. Maybe there is a secret ingredient, acid or something, because it has an interesting effect on some metals. It can clean electrical contacts like nothing else. On occasion, my boat has tried to auto-start the engines. The ignition switches on the bridge had become soaked with rain water. I filled the switches with WD-40 and added boots to the key holes. Problem solved.

 

[Scubadoo72]

Craig, no worries..nothing like a good heart rate boost to decrease the SAC...lol..

I did use a degreaser (Champion) actually before the water flushes...I was actually more concerned about that than the WD40 actually once I had done it...hence the multi flushes..it is fuel oil, nonylphenol polyethoxylate (whatever that is..)and a propane-isobutane-n-butane mixture..
Reading that and the warnings associated, I was concerned about residue left and the heat mixing..which again..made me wash in the soapy water extra carefully..

Are most of these cleaners you guys mention available at LDS's?

On another note...there is some sort of fish oil associated with WD40 (from my understanding) as they can't seem to leave a hook alone that has been coated in it WD40 is great for marine switches and the like..or anything electrical that condensation gets at as it (wd) dissipates the water from the area...A magic elixir of sorts...kind of like duct tape.

 

[pescador775]

I searched the web for the ingredients. WD-40 contains Stoddard solvent(kerosene), mineral oil and some other stuff, no fish oil. Ordinary kerosene is acidic but I don't know about the solvent version.

 

[oxyhacker]

I notice everyone is saying now that he has it running, he should replace the valve(s). Perhaps this would be a good time for a bit of discussioin on whether to clean or replace?

Older literature generally seems to recommend cleaning valves regularly, at intervals of 100 (Coltri) to 800 (early Bauer) to 1000 (recent Bauer) hours, or when any problems develop, and replacing parts as necessary on the basis of a visual examination (though Bauer currently recommends replacing them regardless at 2000 hours, due to the danger of fatigue failure).

Recently, it seems, the tendency is to replace the valves at the slightest sign of trouble, without trying to clean and reuse them. This probably makes sense if you are paying a tech to come and fix it, but the DIYer who is not paying for time, and can afford to have the compressor out of service for a while can save a lot of money by not replacing expensive parts unecessarily.

 

[pescador775]

Older type Bauer valves cannot be cleaned with the expectation that they will last. The problem is not dirt, it is rust. Newer valves seem to be more rust resistant. The mean life time was about five years per my experience with them. I was able to extend this to ten years by blowing water out of the final. This just means running under no load for a few secs. Measuring the hours is appropriate for industrial, commercial compressors under the theory that they will wear out or gunk up before rusting out. If Scubado's valves are not rusty it might be possible to save them but I wouldn't. As much as I like to talk about compressors I would prefer not have this same conversation for a while.

 

[Scubadoo72]

When I had the head off, (noting that I didn't have the proper wrench to remove the valve) I didn't notice much for rust..and really...didn't do a lot to clean it..washed it out..lubed it..washed..lubed it..blew lots of air both directions..didn't actually expect it to work once back together, as I didn't think I had actually accomplished anything.. It appeared to be more "gummy" than rusty..possibly because the machine sat for a few years...then I used it..then it sat for about a month again? Still..the machine will get replacements..as well, I will buy the manual and tools to deal with anything myself.

 

[pescador775]

My first experience with a Bauer was with a 1969 Purus. Lots of water in the oil and the Fichtel/Sachs engine would flood. Also, the SCUBA tanks would get damp inside very quickly. I added a Bauer back pressure valve and repaired the flooding carburetor. Sold it to a buddy for a fair price.

I bought a new, 1974 Capitano from MAKO. I added a Bauer back pressure valve, adjusted it from original 500 psi to 1800 psi and everything seemed fine. At five years, the #2 relief blew. I removed the third stage head and found that the valves were rusty but otherwise clean. I opened the interseparator and found lots of wax like gunk. Evidently, that MAKO oil contained paraffin. I removed the #1 coalescer and found rust. This was serious as the walls were rusty and the base plug which contained the venturi tubes was corroded due to electrolysis (brazed). Several more years passed and it became evident that some of my steel tanks were getting rusty inside. I added a large filter can with dessicant and charcoal. A 2400 psi back pressure valve replaced the original. The original hybrid coalescer/filter was left in place and the new can was simply added downstream. After I had begun the practice of blowing out the machine's cylinders before shut down the valves lifetimes stretched to ten years. The valve life might even extend farther for compressors in personal use as I think Bauer valves are presently more durable than in the past.

 

[oxyhacker]

This is not really so. A solvent like trichlorethylene will not carry away the heavier contaminants as it evaporates (that is, if it has dissolved them at all, but that's another story). The solvent will just redeposit the bulk of the contaminant back onto the part being cleaned as it evaporates, accomplishing nothing except maybe spreading the contaminant around more evenly.

To remove contaminants like oil and grease with a solvent it is necessary to physically remove the solvent and contaminant solution once the contaminant has been dissolved, and before it can dry. This can be done by flushing the part with more solvent or absorbing the solvent with a rag or paper towel. None of these methods will be 100% effective since some of the solution will always be left, and some contaminant always redeposited as it dries, so it will usually be necessary to repeat the process several times.

Using a solvent can often speed evaporation of things that would have evaporating anyhow, as when alcohol is used to speed the drying of water, but will rarely cause something to evaporate that would not evaporate all by itself, if given enough time.

The primary solvent is Trichloroethylene, which will evaporate, taking lubricants with it, while not leaving a residue.

Craig

 

[pescador775]

A couple years ago, I talked to an ENSOLV rep and he said that the residue after flushing, draining and evaporation was less than one part per million, or maybe he said one billion, I don't remember but it was way small. Regulator and valve parts cleaned with that stuff are squeaky. The beauty of it is that no machinery is needed, not even a toothbrush. Turn around time is measured in minutes. Heavy deposits of silicone are drained away with no visible or tactile trace. A perfect fingerprint can be placed on a part cleaned with the stuff. Moreover, ENSOLV Co state explicitly that the solvent is approved by them for oxygen cleaning. As to the specific comment related to evaporation "carrying away" contaminants, that won't happen except for trace amounts of contaminant. I placed some "EBay special" greasy valve parts in a coffee can half full of ENSOLV. I removed the clean parts after a few minutes and during the night the can of solvent evaporated away leaving a layer of silicone grease on the bottom. I have never seen anything work on silicone like that except trichorethane. I have tried soap and detergent to wash silicone from my hands and it took two or three attempts before the hands felt clean. As to Craig's quote on the subject, it looks more like a figure of speech than anything but no, I didn't catch it.

 

[Chariff]

Craig is absolutely correct....more than 30 years in this field...i would say it's 3rd stage suction valve. We still manufacture the 007790 style valve and the matching tool. (as well as the new version). Check New Parts - Hi-Psi Compressor Parts (OR 5000psi.com OR 330bar.com). It's probably prudent to replace both suction AND discharge valves at the same time.