Two questions about drysuit

[fjpatrum]

I just picked up a used DUI TLS350 and have a couple more questions...

First: The suit has a pee valve I'm unlikely to use anytime soon (I'm somewhat time limited on my gas usage as a newbie) and I'd like to remove the hoses but the drysuit course manual doesn't say anything in detail about these. If I remove the hoses am I likely to need to do anything else to prevent it from leaking?

Second: The exhaust valve exhausts slowly, or it seems to me to be slow. The dump valves on my BC, by comparison seem to exhaust at a much higher rate. It may just be a perception thing because there's so much more air in the suit (I've only tried it on in the house and checked it for leaks.) Is this normal or should I tear down the valve and clean it?

 

[BrotherBear]

I wouldn't be too quick to disable the pee valve. Hydration before a dive is a very good thing and having/using the valve will eliminate any worries about downing a bottle of water before you jump in. Besides, your time in the water will increase quickly.
That being said you should be able to screw the valve closed if you do pull off the hoses.


Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[Mitchell Teeters]

I'd say that removing the tube would not be an issue provided you have the bolt tight on the outside.

And the dump valve will not be as fast as the BC dump valve. The level of water tightness will be relative to the speed of the exhausting of the air from your suit.

 

[kathydee]

Congrats on your new suit!

Low profile Apex dump valves on TLS350's often dump much slower than the higher profile Apex or Si Tech dump valves - which was an issue for me. I was much happier when I swapped it out.

Drysuit dump valves do limit the flow more than BC dump valves. The limited flow helps with controlling the ascent. The best way I've found to dive dry is to just put enough gas in the suit to eliminate the squeeze, the buoyancy is mostly controlled by the BC.

Indoor plumbing is a luxury, even if your bottom time isn't long enough to justify a pee valve - it's very convenient to not have to remove the suit during a day of boat diving or on the surface interval and much healthier to not worry about limiting or timing hydration.

Have fun!

 

[elan]

I would keep the p-valve and start using it. It does not matter if your dives are short or long - you will notice that start feeling much better when you properly hydrate yourself. And if you do you might want to go more often.

As for the valve - they do not dump anywhere near as fast as the BC valves. Not even close so what you observe might be normal, but rebuilding it will not hurt if done by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[fjpatrum]

Thanks for the advice. I don't intend to remove the pee valve permanently, but I've never needed to pee during a dive. When I do, I'll start using the pee-valve. I stay plenty hydrated, but for now the tubes are in the way and simply won't be used.

I'll see how it goes for a few dives without removing the tubes and go from there.

 

[altaskier]

I believe that drysuit dumb valves are designed to keep a slight pressure difference across them, and that this difference is controlled by how you adjust them (turning them from the outside). That's how they are able to vent automatically as you ascend. If you have your valve too far "closed" it means it wants a higher differential pressure between air inside the suit and water outside before it will bleed air; too far open and this pressure differential adjustment approaches zero and you can get some water leaking in as the bubbles go out. This is one reason why I think most divers prefer to add air into their drysuits only to counter the squeeze, and use their BCDs for buoyancy control.

 

[GrumpyOldGuy]

The p-valve is one of the greatest inventions for divers, disconnect it you want but I would really try it a couple of times.

The dump does work much slower than a BCD. On the other hand, they are so easy to use (just lift your arm a little or roll to the right) when adjusted you can use them to control buoyancy easier then reaching for the BCD dump valve. It becomes automatic and I don't even realize I am doing it. Of course the first dozen or so dives you may find yourself unintentionally venting and wasting air until you get the hang of it.

So I may take some heat, but I actually like using the suit to control the buoyancy. If I am too heavy I do put some air in the BCD to keep from having a giant air bubble in the suit which would move too much and present a problem to dump fast enough. I am dialed into very close to my perfect weight already, so its not much. It might be more of an issue for someone with doubles, but for the little ups and downs along the bottom contours that are outside of what I can compensate for with my lungs it works easier than using the BCD and certainly easier than using both together.

 

[fjpatrum]

I knew I'd think of something different! So, reading my drysuit course manual, it talks about hoods that go over the neck seal and under the "warm neck collar". I currently use a hooded vest under my wetsuits and was hoping to continue using that under the dry suit.

Does anyone use hooded vests like this with a dry suit or does everyone pretty much use a bibbed hood that fits under the warm neck collar?

I'm not especially keen on yet another piece of accessory gear I can lose or forget someplace if the hooded vest will work.

 

[mathauck0814]

Unless I'm missing something a hooded neoprene vest under a drysuit will not allow a water tight seal. I've got a simple fleece hood by lava core that I'm quite comfortable in down to about 40'F that is nicely flexible and inexpensive.