Turneffe Island Resort Review

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Pacific Diver

Registered
Messages
19
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24
Location
Washington, DC
# of dives
200 - 499
(I just discovered that I never posted this report written shortly after a 2015 trip. Posting it now in case it might still be useful.)

My wife and I spent a week diving in Belize in August at Turneffe Atoll. We stayed at the Turneffe Island Resort (more on that below) and did most of our diving at sites within a five minute boat trip from the resort at the southern tip of the atoll - specifically at The Elbow, Myrtle’s Turtles, Lefty’s Ledge, Front Porch, Gailes Point, Majestic Point, and a night dive at Sayonara. Overall, we’d rate the quality of the diving as at or above what we’ve encountered elsewhere in the Caribbean - Roatan, Bonaire, Curacao, and Little Cayman.

The density of fish and coral was not what we expected, we don’t know how much that might be due to the lion fish problem. The variety of fish is about what you’d expect, but there were a few notable things about the the dives around Turneffe. There were plenty of moray eels, and they were very active. In the past I’ve only seen moray peering out of their dens, but on the reefs around Turneffe they were out and about continuously, swimming over the reef unfazed by our presence. Very unusual. We also saw a fair number of black-tipped reef sharks, small, usually alone (though there was one group of four) and keeping their distance out in the blue. A fair number of turtles and lots of rays as well.

Visibility was fair. The water seemed murky. This was our first summer dive in the Caribbean and I understand visibility can suffer in the summer. Weather was fine, mostly moderate overcast which might have added to the visibility issues. We descended one morning in a heavy rain, but it had cleared by the time we surfaced and it ended up being one of the better dives.

We did one day trip (three dives) to Lighthouse Reef, first to the Blue Hole, then Tarpon Cave and Long Cay Ridge. Blue Hole is a “tick the box” dive; you dive down to 30-40m for a few minutes, note the stalactites, then make your way up to the surface. There were few fish to see on our dive. The other two dives were the best of the trip. Coral was denser and the fish more plentiful at the sites around Lighthouse than the sites nearer the resort.

It’s hard to find any faults with Turneffe Island Resort, particularly given the resort has no connection to mainland infrastructure - water, sewer, electricity, telecommunications. The resort maintains a high standard despite the disadvantages. The rooms were very comfortable, the food was terrific, and unlike a lot of offshore resorts, the water pressure was just fine. There is no cell phone service on the island but there is wireless internet, slow but adequate for keeping up with your email. The property itself was in very good condition, seemingly not suffering from the usual toll that humidity and salt air take on wood floors, furniture, etc. They maintain this standard by keeping a very high level of staffing. It seemed like they were cleaning continuously while we were there and they even brought in extra workers from the mainland to clear the sargassum from the beach. Of course, this comes at a price. The resort is not cheap, but we did get a pretty good deal because we visited in the low season.
 
Glad you posted your report. Got a question about a matter perhaps of interest to others who see your report. It's been said the best diving of Belize is farther from the mainland, such as Turneffe Island (land-based) and the Lighthouse Atoll region via live-aboard (e.g.: I did a Sun Dancer 2, now Belize Aggressor IV, trip back in 2015).

What factors led you to choose land-based over live-aboard?

Richard.
 
( There were plenty of moray eels, and they were very active. In the past I’ve only seen moray peering out of their dens, but on the reefs around Turneffe they were out and about continuously, swimming over the reef unfazed by our presence. Very unusual. .

TIR is one resort that will allow guests to spear Lion fish. I personally am in favor of it, and was one of those having a great time doing it while we were there. With that said, I think the Morays have learned to associate divers, particularly those with dead fish scent on their spear tips, with ringing the dinner bell. We kept a few of the Lion fish we speared but the majority of them get tucked back into a crack in the coral. Seeing free swimming Morays was very common on most dives.

We really liked TIR and are actually going back again this December.

We were thinking strongly about doing the aggressor liveaboard and chose TIR instead. We still did 3-4 dives per day, which is typically plenty for us. The reef and fish life were better on the "Blue hole day" but I was also happy with the dives we did near the resort. I'm not exactly sure how many days the aggressor spends around light house and half moon but I'm pretty sure they spend a day going out and on the way back diving around Turneffe. I guess it falls back on what type of experience you want. We personally like the relaxation time on land after dives and at night.
 
Glad you posted your report. Got a question about a matter perhaps of interest to others who see your report. It's been said the best diving of Belize is farther from the mainland, such as Turneffe Island (land-based) and the Lighthouse Atoll region via live-aboard (e.g.: I did a Sun Dancer 2, now Belize Aggressor IV, trip back in 2015).

What factors led you to choose land-based over live-aboard?

Richard.

Cost and convenience, I think. We did like the sites around Lighthouse better than those around TIR, so we'd probably look at a liveaboard if we decided to dive that area again.
 
I've been on the Aggressor IV 3 times and it's never dove Turneffe when we went. They stayed at Lighthouse and Half Moon. I was told there's enough current at the best sites on Turneffe that it doesn't work well since they dive from the liveaboard which makes a lousy chase boat. Also that the diving wasn't as good. (Though I still want try TIR sometime. I'd read someplace there was a change of ownership or management a couple years ago and issues with the food and other things, sounds like maybe it has gotten better.)
 
From what I understand and someone may correct me, but I believe the owner passed away a few years back and his son has taken it over. The owner and some friends came the second half of the week we were there. I can't speak for previous years as we went last year, although I hadn't read much for previous complaints. I have no complaints at all for TIR. I thought the diving was good, no issues with the dive masters, food was excellent and the service was always great.
As I mentioned we are heading back this December and are looking forward to it.
(Well maybe one small complaint - The walls in the duplex cabins are very thin and you will have no secrets with your neighbors at the end of the week :) )
 
My wife and I stayed at TIR--they changed the name from "Lodge" to "Resort" right before our second visit--for a total of three weeks around 10 years ago. Loved it. Someone described it once as summer camp for adults, and I agree with that assessment wholeheartedly. Eat, dive and sleep. All the logistics are handled for you.

Management typically turns over fast there, at least every couple of years. They always bring in outsiders to manage the place, and I think the burnout factor is high. The staff, on the other hand, is all Belizean and most of them have been there for many years.

I've also noticed that the eels are out and about much more than in the past. Ralph, the co-owner of Splash in Placencia, attributes this to the Lion Fish Hunting that goes on with the other shops. Splash will take you hunting, but you have to bring back what you kill. Apparently the other shops leave them behind, and the eels have learned to track the divers to get a meal.
 
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We stayed at TIR March, 2016. Loved it. One great thing for me is that the resort is small, and some of the people staying there are only fishing. The result is that when you show up to dive in the am there is no crowd. And if you want to take a day off from diving, you can go out and fish, or you can on a Wed. or Sat. take the boat in to Belize City and visit a Mayan ruin.
Service is great, food plentiful. Diving as others have mentioned.
Only complaint: wife likes to walk a beach, and there isn't much beach to walk:)

This year we stayed at Blckbird Caye Resort. Like TIR better.
 
There are fish at Turneffe. I think that there are some spearing on scuba there. This time of year the Elbow has a lot of mutton snappers. And over the next three months, there will be a big cubera snapper (Lutjanus cyanopterus) spawn. The week after the full moons of those months, the place is alive with BIG snappers.
But I was there a few years ago, free diving. My buddy from the Philippines strapped on a tank to dive over the wall and see what he could see. No spear gun, just him. As soon as he got in the water, the fish disappeared. They knew bubbles. He came back, got in the boat and within half hour, the fish were back.

The Elbow is one of the fishiest places I've ever dived. Tubbataha, Sipadan to name a few others. But it's a narrow spot. You have to line up the big tree, right next to the cut you go back to TIR through, with the light towers. Follow that line to the drop off. Choke snappers, horse eye jacks, black grouper, permit, sometimes big king fish....awesome.
 
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