Trip Report Trip report — Los Cabos, Gordo Banks, Cabo Pulmo, La Paz (December 2020)

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nippurmagnum

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Washington DC metro
# of dives
500 - 999
Just came back from my first land-based trip to Baja, and had some spectacular dives: a school of 150+ hammerheads at Gordo Banks, massive bull sharks at Cabo Pulmo, sea lions at La Paz and Cabo San Lucas, and mobula rays at the Cabo corridor — as well as an entire dive spent hearing very loud whale song.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hP5gPzLuxhZKoArCA

This was my first trip to the area, so I thought I’d share some tips.

Logistics: I flew into SJD airport on Southwest, using only 20K miles for my round trip ticket. Flights were only about two thirds full, despite this being high season in normal times. I was asked at the customs area whether I was a diver, and what kinds of cameras and housings I had. Showed them my Olympus TG5 and its housing, emphasized that everything was “hecho de plástico barato” and was waved through with a smile.

I rented an SUV from Enterprise for $400 for the week, and they gave me a brand new Nissan Xtrail with 10 miles on the odometer. The rate included $170 for the rental itself and $230 in mandatory liability insurance (I checked with Geico before the trip, and they confirmed that my US policy does NOT cover Mexico, so the liability insurance is indeed a must). I was very happy with the rental.

I rented an Airbnb for $55 a day roughly a third of the way from Cabo San Lucas to San Jose del Cabo, near the Costco, at a gated complex called Camino Del Mar. It was a townhouse with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a garage, and a very cool terrace with a view of the Ocean and the Arcos. Super safe, quiet, and a short 10 minute drive to Chileno beach, which had superb swimming and snorkeling, and virtually no tourists, with free parking and excellent facilities.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8LTpa9mLYLqxFmdU9

I got a SIM card at the first OXXO convenience store I drove by and for about $5 had a wireless signal the whole week on an old iPhone. This alllowed me to use Waze to get around everywhere. There are not many roads in this part of Mexico, they are well maintained, and I thought people drove slowly and courteously. I was wary of getting stopped by police looking for a bribe but I hardly saw any patrol cars the whole week and had absolutely no hassles.

I did not bother changing dollars into pesos. Every dive shop offered substantial discounts for cash payments, and I just brought cash in a money belt and settled up that way. The few times I had to pay anything in pesos (in total, less than $50 the whole week), I just pulled out some low denomination bills and they were changed on the spot at 18-to-1 — a crappy rate but very convenient.

As for food, I bought stuff from Costco and otherwise ate at restaurants only three times, always outdoors. Locals were generally very conscientious not only in mask usage but in social distancing. They want our business, but not our virus. Btw, I am part of the Moderna vaccine trial, which was approved by the FDA while I was in Mexico.

Next: the diving.
 
(Continued)

The diving was spectacular.

The first couple of days I dove with Dive Cabo in Cabo San Lucas, which was an excellent shop. Never more than 4 divers on a boat, and excellent staff in the shop and on the boat. We dove Pelican Point and Lands End the first day, which were full of dive boats but offered some great diving, including sea lions and my favorite sight, pelicans and cormorants diving into schools of fish while I watched from below. Viz was about 75 feet, water temp 75 F.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrZdpCai2R9fmswE8

The second day we dove Blow Hole and Gavilanes in the Corridor, and the highlight was mobula rays on both dives and outstanding visibility — as well as whale songs during the entire dive at Gavilanes.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sqQvTcPPXS5UaMyC8

The third day I drove to San José del Cabo and dove Gordo Banks with East Cape Explorers, the sister shop of Dive Cabo, which was similarly excellent. Here is a link to the GoPro video troné of the divemasters took — starts out with two mobulas at the surface, and then the enormous school of hammerheads.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ut7BQLhXfmmovEb7

There was only one other dive boat in the vicinity, and while we did our safety stop, they were in the water, and we saw a couple of humpbacks go by them — and a couple of lucky divers on the other boat saw them underwater.

The fourth day I left my Airbnb early in the morning (circa 5 AM) for the drive to Cabo Pulmo. Despite what you may hear, the road is certainly drivable, and the last six miles of dirt road are no big deal, provided you take your time, the main thing to look for are cows, goats and horses, as well as a few very high dirt speed bumps.

I dove with Cabo Pulmo Watersports, which provided an excellent divemaster from Barcelona, and a ver skilled captain, Misail. The highlight for me was the Vencemos wreck, which was absolutely pulsating with enormous schools of fish for which Cabo Pulmo is famous, but also had about a dozen truly massive bull sharks, which looked like they fed on the bull sharks I’m used to seeing in Florida.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/otecmRoZ44UCLG6W6

The viz was not great, maybe 20 feet, but the amount of fish life would have reduced viz anyway. We searched for a bait ball during our first surface interval (I did three tanks) but couldn’t find one, so dove a couple of other good sites, though not as thrilling as Vencemos.

Finally, on the fifth day I drove From my Airbnb to La Paz, where I dove the sea lion colony and the Fang Ming wreck with Cortez Expeditions. The dive shop seemed to have undergone a fair amount of turnover in recent months, and communications with the shop were a bit slow ahead of the trip, but the Aussie divemaster who led our outing was very good, and Ana Hurtado the new office manager was quite helpful. The boat served an excellent ceviche for lunch that was probably the best thing I ever ate in Mexico. The dive at the sea lion colony was spectacular, with excellent viz, despite recent storms in the area, and i really enjoyed twisting and turning with the sea lions to get videos like this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JBWZiQRtncoxHn5EA

The Fang Ming had atrocious viz but was a fun wreck, with several resident turtles and easy penetrations, sometimes with the turtles leading the way. All in al, though, I would have gladly done both dives at the sea lion colony, and next time I’d try to find a dive shop that could ensure that.

i was supposed to do the whale shark snorkel trip on the sixth day (and had planned to overnight in La Paz at the Marina Waterfront Hotel next to the dive shop) but the winds picked up and the port was closed, so Cortez Expeditions offered me a refund of that, and I returned to Los Cabos, where I spent the sixth day snorkeling and swimming at Chileno beach.

ONE IMPORTANT WORD OF WARNING: The dive sites of Los Cabos, La Paz, and Cabo Pulmo are a couple of hours from each other. Make sure you take a careful gear inventory before moving on. It is customary for divemasters to offer to rinse your gear, which is a nice courtesy, but in one case I got careless and left several pieces of gear behind that the divemaster had not grouped with the rest of my gear. That resulted in m having to make the return drive of shame to reunite with my gear.

OK, that’s my story — happy to answer any questions. I will definitely be returning to Baja as soon as possible, it’s an easy trip and amazing diving.
 
Thanks for a great report and the topside logistical details like car rental (and insurance) costs, time to get between places and the living arrangement.

So, was the viz. around 20 feet at the site with a dozen or so really big bull sharks? I can imagine that getting spooky. The bulls I saw at Jupiter, FL, were maybe 5 or perhaps 6 feet long? Really big ones, like that thick-bodied rascal you linked a photo of, could be intimidating, given their reputation.

The region you dove is one that several years ago I'd not heard of, but since then trip reports have been trickling out with increasing frequency, or so it seems to me. If that's true, is it on more divers' radar these days? Wonder how total trip costs for a week stack up against popular Caribbean dive destinations, and then of course there's the land-based vs. live-aboard angle.
 
Thanks for a great report and the topside logistical details like car rental (and insurance) costs, time to get between places and the living arrangement.

So, was the viz. around 20 feet at the site with a dozen or so really big bull sharks? I can imagine that getting spooky. The bulls I saw at Jupiter, FL, were maybe 5 or perhaps 6 feet long? Really big ones, like that thick-bodied rascal you linked a photo of, could be intimidating, given their reputation.

The region you dove is one that several years ago I'd not heard of, but since then trip reports have been trickling out with increasing frequency, or so it seems to me. If that's true, is it on more divers' radar these days? Wonder how total trip costs for a week stack up against popular Caribbean dive destinations, and then of course there's the land-based vs. live-aboard angle.

The viz at the Cabo Pulmo bull shark dive definitely added to the atmospherics. The sharks were curious and made some close passes, like this one, where you can actually see the shark eyeballing the young diver with the cool pink mask:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/J3Mhubk6WVvFoGRZ9

As for the costs, they were as follows:

Airline ticket: 20k miles on Southwest from BWI
SUV rental: $400
Gasoline: $75
Airbnb rental: $400
6 dive package to Cabo San Lucas, Cabo Corridor, and Gordo Banks: $365
3 tanks package at Cabo Pulmo: $125
2 tanks at La Paz: $200
Snorkeling at Chileno Beach: free

So that’s about $1,500 for the week, and I was traveling by myself, as my dive buddy bailed on me at the last minute due to COVID fears. If we’d split the AIRBNB and car costs I would have shaved $400, making it a hair over $1,000 for a great week’s diving.

I have nothing against liveaboards and in fact had considered doing the Socorro trip instead, but given the potential for COVID cancellations, this land based trip seemed much safer. The Southwest ticket, AIRBNB, car rental and dives could all be cancelled with 24-48 hours notice. By contrast, the Socorro trips had strict no cancellation rules. So this was cheaper, more flexible, and still provided world class diving.
 
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