Touchup Paint for Faber Steel Tanks

[scubafanatic]

I'm in the middle of repainting a few Fabers (repairing new hydro stamp paint damage). I'm using 'appliance' grade Black epoxy spray paint on my double 76's. (1st Rustoleum white primer, then black spray paint, then plan to topcoat with clear polyurethane spray paint) Similar process on my 'battleship' gray Fabers/OMS ones, except I have given up finding 'appliance' grade epoxy paint in that color and just decided to go with a Rustoleum 'automotive' grade 'battleship' gray paint instead. I elected to NOT use any galvanizing products on the Fabers as during my paint research it sounded like galvanizing products conflicted with the recommended paints.

I did use zinc cold galvanizing spray quite successfully on a number of newly hydroed HP PSTs, these tanks are MUCH easier to maintain/repair than the Fabers!

 

[NAM001]

What ever you do or how ever you do it make sure you can still read what you touched up. All markings have to be readable.

I'm in the middle of repainting a few Fabers (repairing new hydro stamp paint damage). I'm using 'appliance' grade Black epoxy spray paint on my double 76's. (1st Rustoleum white primer, then black spray paint, then plan to topcoat with clear polyurethane spray paint) Similar process on my 'battleship' gray Fabers/OMS ones, except I have given up finding 'appliance' grade epoxy paint in that color and just decided to go with a Rustoleum 'automotive' grade 'battleship' gray paint instead. I elected to NOT use any galvanizing products on the Fabers as during my paint research it sounded like galvanizing products conflicted with the recommended paints.

I did use zinc cold galvanizing spray quite successfully on a number of newly hydroed HP PSTs, these tanks are MUCH easier to maintain/repair than the Fabers!

 

[scubafanatic]

What ever you do or how ever you do it make sure you can still read what you touched up. All markings have to be readable.

Yes, I've been careful to not 'overapply' so that, when it's all said and done, the stamps are still visible. It's been a bit of a challenge, as some of the stamps are deeper than others, so doing THIN coats, let dry, see where I'm at, and final top coat with CLEAR polyurethane spray paint.

 

[NAM001]

the paint on my tanks are not for restoring a flush surface area like when new, but more than an effort towards metel preservation and whiting out the multiple hydro stamps as they expire.

Yes, I've been careful to not 'overapply' so that, when it's all said and done, the stamps are still visible. It's been a bit of a challenge, as some of the stamps are deeper than others, so doing THIN coats, let dry, see where I'm at, and final top coat with CLEAR polyurethane spray paint.

 

[scubafanatic]

the paint on my tanks are not for restoring a flush surface area like when new, but more than an effort towards metel preservation and whiting out the multiple hydro stamps as they expire.

Same here, I'm not trying to 'restore' the original 'flush surface' as that can't be done without completely filling in and covering the new hydro stamps, just trying to protect and match colors as best I can.