Touching Up Faber Tanks Controversy

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Scene 1: I scratch my Faber tank on some rocks and expose the galvanized base coat. Call Faber and they say to use Rustoleum White Gloss Spray Paint. OK, I do that.

Scene 2: A couple of weeks later the touch up pretty much falls off.

Scene 3: I acquire a couple more scrapes and one of them looks like rust at the bottom. So I figure I will clean it up, touch up with cold galvanizing and topcoat with the Rustoleum.

Scene 4: I read the instructions for the Cold Galv and they say "Do not topcoat with oil based paints". The Rustoleum is oil based....

Scene 5: I double check with Rustoleum and they say their product cannot be used over any type of galvanizing including that which is OEM on the tank.

Now what?
 
Scene 5: I double check with Rustoleum and they say their product cannot be used over any type of galvanizing including that which is OEM on the tank.

Now what?

I leave mine alone.
 
Unfotunately this is what happens to Fabers and PSTs I had some whose scratches propogated under the paint, and I ended up being able to peel off in one piece about a thrid of the tank.

There is a reason why paint or any finish does not belong on scuba tanks. Often it's like the plastic bedliners in pickups hiding a bunch of rust and not protecting the metal.

I love unfinished aluminum tanks.
 
Have you checked on warranty? The tanks I bought were Worthington I believe, they came with a lifetime warranty on the galvanized finish. Maybe Faber offers the same?
 
Greetings,
I have been handling Faber scuba cylinders since the early 1990s. And, for a good part of the last decade I sold thousands of these fine cylinders. Before attempting to touch them up you need to understand the method in which they are originally coated.

Faber Cylinders have a triple coating.

1. Cold Spray Galvanize
2. Epoxy Paint (multi-layer sprayed)
3. Polyurethane Coat

This triple coating for the most part will keep these cylinders protected for decades proving you also do your part of not gouging the surface. But this does happen at times. To do minor repair on these dings and scratches you should follow procedure below.

1. Clean surface with alcohol swabs
2. Use fine Emory paper and carefully buff the damaged area about 1/4 " larger than the damage area. Just enough to feather any damage area -- dont dig down into it -- just clean it up.
3. Rustoleum or Krylon Appliance White Paint
4. Tape off the area that needs to be painted about 1' area larger than the damage area. (cover rest of cylinder)
5. Spray paint in dusting manner --- let dry -- spray again -- let dry --
6. take Emory paper and give a light buffing to smooth out any bumps --
7. Repeat last coating . let dry -- it should have a smooth finish.

Once you have a damage area is it always vulnerable -- so keep an eye on it.

NEXT ..... tank valve --- and neck dings --- Some dealers like to crank the cylinder valve down on the cylinder when installing. Sometimes this will chip the top neck paint. This will now start to rust. Cylinder valves are to be installed with no more than 120 inch-pounds of torque. About a good hand tightening is all it needs. if your cylinder has developed "neck rust" on the outside .... drain cylinder, remove valve, stuff hole with valve plug and follow above procedure.

I have some Faber cylinders since 1992 and they are the absolute best cylinders made. If you take care of them, they will serve you well for a very long time.

Hope this helps you.

Cheers
 
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Scene 5: I double check with Rustoleum and they say their product cannot be used over any type of galvanizing including that which is OEM on the tank.

Now what?

So my utility trailer will fail hydro?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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