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Lots of good advice here!
One of the things 27 years in Alaska taught me about staying warm is to layer my undergarments. If you are looking at a real cold water dive start with a layer of thin material (polyester, silk, polartec, smartwool). Follow that with a mid-weight polartec or other microfleece product.
Ended up at the same place by trial and error. I use a thin Patagonia Capilene longsleve top and bottom under my polartecs. I know that the Capilene is supposed to be for hot weather, but it makes the leaks so much more bearable.