Tech regs

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We tested a Scubapro Mk 17 on some long, deep, silty and cold dives (low 40's) over the weekend and based on it's perfromance under very demanding conditions, I have ordered two of them to replace my Mk 20's. It is about the same size as the Mk 16, which makes it very compact for a high performance first stage and the hose routing of both the Mk 16 and Mk 17 is very Poseidenish with it being very easy to rout everything straight down.

The Mk 17 is also fully sealed which eliminates the only real advantage Apex had over the Mk 16 or Mk 20/25. So in short, I have no reservations in recommending it for a technical diver.

As for second stage criteria, getting one that can be dissasembled underwater without tools is absolutley the last criteria on my list. It's one of those ideas that sounds pretty good until you think about it.

Disassembling a second stage to remove rocks, sand, etc, might work in a non silted non flowing cave (probably an oxymoron) where you could work on the reg while lying on the bottom, but in any kind of flow, in open water, or in a current in a current the job gets progressively harder with an exponetially increasing potential to lose parts. Once you get to the point of trying to do it in 35-40 degree water in dry gloves or heavy neoprene gloves with cold hands while hanging on an ascent line in a current, taking the second stage apart to fix it is not a viable option.

A far better option would be finger tight second stages and matched IP's so that you could swap out a malfunctioning second stage with one not currently in use. That is do-able in cold water with gloves and in a current. And besides, anything that got in the second stage came through the mouthpiece and in most cases you can shake it back out the mouthpiece.

So in short, pick a second stage that breathes well, breathes dry and is in general pretty durable and reliable. A simple downstream poppet designed second stage like a Scubapro R190 or R290/380/390 or Aqualung aquarius or Conshelf whatever can be made to breathe well and are really simple and bullet proof. Balanced regulators tend to breathe better and tolerate IP changes better, while regulators with spring adjustment knobs can be adjusted to accommodate normal seat wear over the course of a season without giving up performance. How many of the above features you want is a personal choice. Frankly, I have seen very few upper end second stages from major maufacturers that would not serve well in most technical situations.
 
So, what is the list price of MK17?

What 2nd stage is paired with MK17 in US market? I have seen MK17/R390 at $240.67.

DA Aquamaster:
We tested a Scubapro Mk 17 on some long, deep, silty and cold dives (low 40's) over the weekend and based on it's perfromance under very demanding conditions, I have ordered two of them to replace my Mk 20's. It is about the same size as the Mk 16, which makes it very compact for a high performance first stage and the hose routing of both the Mk 16 and Mk 17 is very Poseidenish with it being very easy to rout everything straight down.

The Mk 17 is also fully sealed which eliminates the only real advantage Apex had over the Mk 16 or Mk 20/25. So in short, I have no reservations in recommending it for a technical diver.

As for second stage criteria, getting one that can be dissasembled underwater without tools is absolutley the last criteria on my list. It's one of those ideas that sounds pretty good until you think about it.

Disassembling a second stage to remove rocks, sand, etc, might work in a non silted non flowing cave (probably an oxymoron) where you could work on the reg while lying on the bottom, but in any kind of flow, in open water, or in a current in a current the job gets progressively harder with an exponetially increasing potential to lose parts. Once you get to the point of trying to do it in 35-40 degree water in dry gloves or heavy neoprene gloves with cold hands while hanging on an ascent line in a current, taking the second stage apart to fix it is not a viable option.

A far better option would be finger tight second stages and matched IP's so that you could swap out a malfunctioning second stage with one not currently in use. That is do-able in cold water with gloves and in a current. And besides, anything that got in the second stage came through the mouthpiece and in most cases you can shake it back out the mouthpiece.

So in short, pick a second stage that breathes well, breathes dry and is in general pretty durable and reliable. A simple downstream poppet designed second stage like a Scubapro R190 or R290/380/390 or Aqualung aquarius or Conshelf whatever can be made to breathe well and are really simple and bullet proof. Balanced regulators tend to breathe better and tolerate IP changes better, while regulators with spring adjustment knobs can be adjusted to accommodate normal seat wear over the course of a season without giving up performance. How many of the above features you want is a personal choice. Frankly, I have seen very few upper end second stages from major maufacturers that would not serve well in most technical situations.
 
My buddy who was trained as a SP rep can take apart a second stage in high flow. It happened to him while using an Atomic M1 while on a stage entering Little River during our cave class. The flow was above normal and the diaphragm somehow got folded back and began leaking after a few breathes. He fixed it in under a minute. The dive was not prematurely called. Of course he didn't have gloves on, but then again this guy could probably pull that off as well. I have no idea if I could do it. I think it would take a good deal of practice and one does need to be good with their hands.

DA Aquamaster:
As for second stage criteria, getting one that can be dissasembled underwater without tools is absolutley the last criteria on my list. It's one of those ideas that sounds pretty good until you think about it.

Disassembling a second stage to remove rocks, sand, etc, might work in a non silted non flowing cave (probably an oxymoron) where you could work on the reg while lying on the bottom, but in any kind of flow, in open water, or in a current in a current the job gets progressively harder with an exponetially increasing potential to lose parts. Once you get to the point of trying to do it in 35-40 degree water in dry gloves or heavy neoprene gloves with cold hands while hanging on an ascent line in a current, taking the second stage apart to fix it is not a viable option.
 
I have apex atx50, and i love it. its completle dry set up and its great for ice diving right out of the box. aqua lund is a nother great reg apex makes them. there a little more usa freindly. apex is uk.
 
DA Aquamaster:
We tested a Scubapro Mk 17 on some long, deep, silty and cold dives (low 40's) over the weekend and based on it's perfromance under very demanding conditions, I have ordered two of them to replace my Mk 20's.

hey, this sounds very, very good to me

were you testing the mk17/af r390 combo?
 
hoosier:
So, what is the list price of MK17?

What 2nd stage is paired with MK17 in US market? I have seen MK17/R390 at $240.67.
I am not sure on the package price for the Mk 17, but the LDS did note that the dealer cost for a Mk 17 first stage is $9.00 higher than for a Mk 16 first stage, so I would expect the MSRP will not be more than about $20 more for a Mk 17 R290 than for a MK 16 R390.

The reg the shop received and tested was a MK 17 R390, but a couple days after it arrived, the owner was advised by Scubapro that they are discontinuing the R390 and replacing it in the US market with the R290. So I suspect the Mk 17 R390 combo will be very short lived and will be replaced by the Mk 17 R290.

I suspect SP will follow the same marketing strategy they used with the Mk 16 and would expect them to package the MK 17 with the R290 and S550 second stages. SP's marketing strategy has been to package their first and second stages in entry level, intermediate and advanced packages. This more or less encourages dealers to stock these combinations and in turn encourages customers to purchase a more expensive Mk 16/17/18 first stage to get a balanced second stage like the S550, or the even more expensive Mk 25 first stage to get a G250, S600 or X650 second stage.

But in fact, SP will sell any first stage with any second stage on a special order basis by ordering the stages individually. So ordering a Mk 17 with an R190, R290, G250, S550, S600 or X650 would be an option. It costs a few percent more to buy them that way as you lose the package discount and you have to wait a week for the SP to ship it to your dealer, but you end up saving a bunch on the less expensive first stage compared to the cost of a Mk 25 first stage. And the same is true if you don't want a more expensive second stage with a Mk 17, as you save a lot on an R190 compared to everything else.
 
DA, I'm a little newbie diver but twice I've popped the cover and diaphragm off my regs to clear them out. Once while floating on the surface in a bay, but the first time was in the crazy currents of the upper Hudson while at 50 feet. I had 3mm gloves, it took about a minute, and wasn't a big deal at all.
 
The only potential downside with the Mk 17 for technical diving that I observed is that the heat transfer fins are vertical when the reg is mounted on its side as would be the case in a doubles arrangement and could potentially trap small diameter line that would otherwise slide off a reg like the Mk 16.

I have decided that a suitably sized piece of inner tube will be covering these fins on my Mk 17's. Based on the totally sealed diaphragm design, I don't see a reason for the fins other than for marketing purposes, cosmetics, and to fill the space between the body and the outer diaphragm.

I would be very surprised if covering them causes any problems. But if it does, I'll remove the innertube and live with the minor possibility of catching a piece of monofilament.
 
Captain CaveMan:
I have apex atx50, and its great for ice diving right out of the box.
Not really. The IP should be lowered to 125. The factory setting is close to 140 IIRC
 
JeffG:
Not really. The IP should be lowered to 125. The factory setting is close to 140 IIRC
Yup... mine were 135 and 145 psi out of the box. I lowered them both to reduce the chances of freezing when diving cold water.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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