Yes, different doubles work best for different situations. I have a set of LP 108s that are great for caves and a lot of other situations, but I would really rather be taking something smaller and lighter on a boat dive. This is especially true when others I am diving with have those smaller tanks. This means that my extra capacity is wasted and often unnecessarily expensive, since we have to plan the dive based on the diver with the least capacity. On the other hand, when going on a much deeper dive, you want that extra capacity. See the next comment for more.> Regarding doubles, is there a size/metal combo that's most versatile or are different combos needed to accommodate different dives? Aluminum 80s, steel 100s, 120s...? Different inspection standards than rec?
Different people have different opinions on this. When I dive in Mexican caves, we use AL 80 doubles (or side mount AL 80s). I like to use a 5 mm wet suit. I have never been cold. Others use dry suits, even on relatively short dives.> Maybe a dumb question, and not so important right now but I'm curious - dry suits are probably very common but do guys dive wet in warmer locations (say Cayman) or do you tend to stick with dry to maintain consistency in your configuration?
One issue is matching the suit to the tanks. Some people are pretty insistent that diving with steel tanks calls for a dry suit for redundant buoyancy. Others say that in a hot climate, use a wet suit and a double bladder wing. Others insist that no one should use a double bladder wing. I have done more than a few dives when I absolutely needed the dry suit because of the water temperatures, but the temperature on land was about 100° or more. Believe me, that time on shore or on the boat while dressing out is no fun at all.