Tank Valve thread opening?

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if you bought the valve from someone who knows nothing about thread sizing or scuba, they might have measured it and sold it as 3/4" based on the physical size (and not the thread size).

If they are supposed to be a scuba dealer, they sent you the wrong valve.
 
I've got a US Divers J valve in 3/4 NPST that is freshened up and the J valve is good too - PM me your address and just pay for shipping - or - pay 75.00 for a modern "Kidde" (K valve) - I prefer the modern K valve on my tanks because the angled off handwheel and stem are easier on my buggered up hand to carry around - Hell, those LP Norris tanks are probably only 20 lbs MT anyway, right? 20 lbs each, I should say. MT
 
Another thing - many divers using vintage equipment prefer the J valve and will not run an SPG because they want to remain period correct in everything - That means no SPG on their gear and when the reg gets a little labored to breathe off of, you pull down the J valve and go into reserve to immediately begin your controlled ascent.

These are very experienced divers and can easily gauge their air consumption because they are well trained and are paying attention to their bottom time, depth, tank size, WOB on any particular dive and so forth. As well, They're all (mostly) using steel tanks and can accurately gauge their tank pressure by the buoyancy swing they are going to feel as the tank drains down.

If I'm diving a steel tank that I'm familiar with, or even somewhat familiar with, I will know to within 100 psi when I have a half a tank remaining because I can feel the swing.

Many divers in the misty days of diving past did not trust the "new" submersible pressure gauge because popular diving mythology held that the SPG was unreliable and tended to explode and spray glass and oil all over the deck when they did.

Whatever the truth is, I have never seen an SPG explode (hose ruptures, yes) when brought to full tank pressure and I like having something to look at besides fish so I always run an SPG even on diving equipment I use from the 50's and 60's -

I recommend you use an SPG until you're comfortable enough to feel that it isn't a required piece of your kit - which may be never.

If you'd like to sell that doubles manifold, there are plenty of interested people (buyers) around
 
I prefer the modern K valve on my tanks because the angled off handwheel and stem are easier on my buggered up hand to carry around -

And I prefer the J-Valve because I think they are easier to carry :wink: Six of one and a half-dozen of the other, please.

I've never seen a SPG explode either but some instructors are still teaching to open the valve slowly and face the gauge away from you, just in case.
 
That's the way I was taught, turn the SPG away from you just in case as to turn on your valve.

I was given this set of doubles, broke them down to singles to mess around in my pool and shollow dives. I had them Hydroed and tumbled, then took one (1) to my LDS to get inspected, valve installed and filled. The LDS valve cost was very expensive so I decided to buy a valve off line for the other tank--- Yes it was advertised as 3/4 but was really a 1/2 Lesson learned..
I am definitely interested in selling the Manifold if someone whats/needs it.
 
For what it's worth I have see 2 spg's come apart. One was a standard brass and glass and the other was one of the mini ones used on a (my) pony bottle, both sent the glass face across the room. I don't look at it when pressurizing them.

The lesson here is always wear your mask when diving.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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