Tank size??

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I dive doubled Worthington 130s and while I love them, there is no doubt that 100s are a better choice for most people. Even with an aluminum plate, a doubles rig with 130s weighs well in excess of 120 lbs--even if that's OK for you, other people (e.g., tank monkeys) may be a different story.

My vote is the 100s for anything single tank (130s and STAs aren't friends, IME), and 100s for doubles unless you have the frame and a need for the 130s unique pros/cons.
 
I dive doubled Worthington 130s and while I love them, there is no doubt that 100s are a better choice for most people. Even with an aluminum plate, a doubles rig with 130s weighs well in excess of 120 lbs--even if that's OK for you, other people (e.g., tank monkeys) may be a different story.

My vote is the 100s for anything single tank (130s and STAs aren't friends, IME), and 100s for doubles unless you have the frame and a need for the 130s unique pros/cons.

Thanks!!
 
HP100 is a great size
 
So you know the various sizes, brands and weights, here is a handy chart:

Scuba Cylinder Specifications from Tech Diving Limited - 928-855-9400

I personally dive Worthington HP100's and am quite happy with them. Due to dry suit diving in the NE, I would personally avoid Aluminum. I might think about going with a pair of Stl 119HPs at a later date, but would definitely keep the 100s. YMMV.
 
The high pressure steel tanks are quite nice. Plus the fact that you don't have an issue with them fitting in the tank holder on a dive boat.
 
I use steel 120's and sometimes wish I just stuck with 100's due to the weight and length. Most other times, I am happy to have the 20% more air but to be honest with you, I rarely ever need it. The benefit as an instructor is that I can get though most days of OW without ever having to change my tank. In the cold quarries of NC and PA with a drysuit, the steel 120's have proven to be beneficial for weighting purposes.
 
120s and 130s are pretty big tanks and can prove to be a pain in the..... I'd personally go with the 100s. I love mine! They provide a good capacity of air while still allowing the option of adding a pony without straining a regular BC's lift capacity. Seriously consider the option that 100s give you to double up later down the line. That's the way I went. Happy diving!
 
I like my 119s. They're shorter than an AL80, and hold 50% more air. If you're diving from a charter, the 8-inch diameter may be an issue. I'm diving a trilam drysuit and use 24 lbs weight with the 119.

Ron
 
You can't go wrong with the 100's as your first cylinder. If latter you find a need to dive with more gas then start to consider a bigger cylinder, doubles or bringing an ocasional stage. Don't overthink it, no one item will be perfect for all dives.

HP steel is the way to go in cold water.

Your take on the transfill whip is corrrect. In some cases you can optimize what you have. For instance... many of my dives only consume 50 CF. If I had 2 100's one full and one depleted to 50% (50CF) I could transfill them to balance at 75% or 75 CF each, enough for 2 typical dives with a 25 CF reserve each. Using 100 Cf cylindersd makes this illustration easy.

Pete
 

Back
Top Bottom