Tank re-fill questions

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Scuba-dan

Contributor
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Location
Ottawa, Canada
# of dives
100 - 199
Hi,

I'm new to diving, just bought my equipment including an 80cpg Aluminum tanks. When i go back to the LDS where I bought the tank for my re-fills, it takes them about 3 minutes to do. The tank is hot but cools down.

I found another LDS closer to where I work and called them up to see how much they charge. They said that I need to leave the tank there for about an 1hr so that they can properly fill it up. If they do a fast fill I would then lose some air once it cools down.

Any truth to that?

Thanks,
 
Hi,

I'm new to diving, just bought my equipment including an 80cpg Aluminum tanks. When i go back to the LDS where I bought the tank for my re-fills, it takes them about 3 minutes to do. The tank is hot but cools down.

I found another LDS closer to where I work and called them up to see how much they charge. They said that I need to leave the tank there for about an 1hr so that they can properly fill it up. If they do a fast fill I would then lose some air once it cools down.

Any truth to that?

Thanks,

Yes, as gas cools it will lose some pressure (or the warmer the gas the more pressure there is from the excitement of the gas particles) it can be remedied with a bit of an overfill though but some shops arnt willing to do that. Some other solutions for the shops are to have a water bath so that the water speeds cooling of the tank, or filling the tanks slowly so that it doesnt get as hot.
 
Some other solutions for the shops are to have a water bath so that the water speeds cooling of the tank, or filling the tanks slowly so that it doesnt get as hot.

I would never take my tanks to a shop that uses a water bath. It's more than merely pointless, it can be one more way to introduce moisture into the tank.
 
FYI, the recommended filling rate is around 600psi per minute. So a typical AL80 should take 5 minutes. It will still get warm. When it cools it will probably be down 100-200 psi. It is perfectly acceptable to over fill a cylinder as long as when it is cooled to the standard temp (70 F/ 20 C) that it is at its rated temperature. So for me filling an Al80 to around 3200psi is fine as once it cools it comes in at 3000psi.

Sounds like the other shop like to ensure their customers get a nice full fill. Which means they fill it let it sit to cool and top off.
 
Yes that's what they told me. They fill it, then let it cool down, top it off. Plus they are cheaper to re-fill but I got lots of free re-fill at the other shop when I bought the tanks.

So I had my tank filled last week at the place where I bought the tank, look at the pressure this morning as I'm going diving and it was at 3200. I presume when I hit the water should go down a little.

Thanks !!!
 
I would never take my tanks to a shop that uses a water bath. It's more than merely pointless, it can be one more way to introduce moisture into the tank.

It's not pointless, I clearly notice a difference in the temperature of my tanks between a water bath and just air cooled, why is it soo hard for people to understand that water dissapates heat far better than air, ie. why people wear drysuits surrounded by air are warm vs. people that wear wetsuits and are wet are cold. As to introducing moisture into the tank, with some extremely simple easy precaustionary steps this is not an issue. (such as cracking the valve to blow moisture out before hooking up the fill whip etc.)
 
300-500 psi per minute is the fill rate I was taught in the PSI VCI class, which would mean 6-10 minutes from empty to full. Reduce that by whatever gas remains from the previous fill, of course.

As for your two shops' fill times, that sounds a lot like the quick fill is from a bank and the slow fill is from a compressor. I know at our shop, I can fill much faster (still 300-500 psi/minute or less) from the bank than from our compressor. I prefer to get my fills from the compressor, of course, as a slower fill has more time to dissipate the heat, meaning more gas in the cylinder. :D (I also live and work about a mile from the shop, so it's not like I need to hurry.)


Of course, you're not *losing* any air from a hot fill. It's just the gas laws, specifically Amonton's Law: P1/T1 = P2/T2

Let's say the hot fill is a hot but not scalding 120°F (580°R) and your summer temperature is 80°F (540°R). If the hot fill pressure is 3000 psi, once the cylinder cools to ambient temperature, the pressure inside will only read 2800 psi (i.e. 3000 psi * 540°R / 580°R). If the hot fill is a painful 140°F (600°R), the cooled cylinder would only show 2700 psi.

Note: You may notice that I made sure to use absolute temperatures (in this case, Rankine for ease of calculation) and wonder whether I also needed to be *absolute* pressure. The answer to that is that you must *absolutely* (hehe) use absolute pressures as well, but in the case of an air fill, you don't have precise enough instruments to tell the difference between 3000 psi and 3015 psi, so I rounded the absolute pressure to 3000 psi, even. If you were talking about a few atmospheres of pressure (such as a salvage lift, perhaps), the difference could be significant, but it's lost in rounding error for cylinder fills.

It's not pointless, I clearly notice a difference in the temperature of my tanks between a water bath and just air cooled, why is it soo hard for people to understand that water dissapates heat far better than air, ie. why people wear drysuits surrounded by air are warm vs. people that wear wetsuits and are wet are cold.
Ah, rox, you're falling victim to one of the classic blunders (slightly below land-war-in-asia and sicilians-and-death). What you're clearly noticing is a difference in the temperature of the outside of your cylinders, and you're assuming that that correlates to a significant difference in the temperature of the gas inside that cylinder. It all comes back to heat transfer.

The metal cylinder is in direct contact with the water bath (ignoring coatings for this post), and water conducts heat away from the metal at a vastly higher rate than air. On the other hand, the gas inside the cylinder is still a gas, and the rate at which it transfers heat to the cylinder is the limiting factor. A water bath greatly facilitates conduction of heat from the outside of the cylinder, but the only impact it can have on heat transfer on the inside of the cylinder is by increasing the delta-T across the gas-cylinder interface.

It is plainly obvious that the increased heat transfer to a water bath does mean that more heat is transferred from the gas in the cylinder as it is filled, but it should not be assumed that the difference is significant. The experimental design to investigate the difference, however, is quite trivial:
  1. Drain two identical cylinders and allow them to reach thermal equilibrium (an hour should be more than ample).
  2. Place one cylinder in a water bath, the other alongside.
  3. Attach both cylinders to fill whips branching from the same manifold.
  4. Record the starting time.
  5. Fill the cylinders to the desired pressure, then close the valves.
  6. Record the ending time. (We really just need the elapsed time.)
  7. Measure and record the pressure in each cylinder (they should certainly match).
  8. Allow both cylinders to reach thermal equilibrium.
  9. Measure and record the pressure in each cylinder and the ambient temperature.

The pressures once the cylinders have reached thermal equilibrium will be a direct indicator of the temperature of the gas inside the cylinder at the point the cylinder was "full". At the end of filling, the pressures are identical, and at the end of the cooling period, the temperatures are identical. The volumes, of course, are constant (within the precision of this experiment).

If anyone wants to speak up, I'd be more than willing to collect and analyze the results of this experiment. (I should be able to perform a few iterations of the experiment myself, but I don't have fast-filling capability at my disposal.) It would be very interesting to see just how large or small the difference of water-bath versus ambient-air fills *actually* is. Once we have that knowledge, the "is it worth it" conversation can take place in a far more informed manner.
 
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Boyle's Law - Describes the relationship between the absolute pressure and volume of gasses. Submerging a cylinder in water will reduce the amount of heat, thus resulting in a "fatter" fill. Done correctly there is no chance of water getting into the cylinder.
 
Of course, *Boyle's* Law has *NOTHING* to do with *temperature*. Boyle's Law is one special case arising from the Ideal Gas Law.

The Ideal Gas Law: pV=nRT

The Ideal Gas Law has several pieces. Pressure (p), volume (V), and temperature (T) are obvious. The remaining bits are quantity (n, generally in moles) and the ideal gas constant (R), which can be looked up in all variety of units. If you're talking about a given quantity of gas with potential variations in the pressure, volume, and temperature at which you have it, each set of p, V, and T will equal the same nR, so you can say pV/T number one equals nR equals pV/T number two, and if you just leave out the unimportant middle, you get:

The Combined Gas Law: p1V1/T1 = p2V2/T2

This covers any variation in pressure, volume, or temperature for a given quantity of gas. You can use it any any case for all your diving ideal gas calculations. Of course, if you want to, you can cancel out the parts that you're holding constant.

Boyle's Law (constant temperature): p1V1 = p2V2
Charles' Law (constant pressure): V1/T1 = V2/T2
Amonton's Law (constant volume): p1/T1 = p2/T2

When you're talking about the quantity of gas you can get in a fill, you're really talking about the idea gas law itself (since you're talking about n as a function of p, V, and T. Boyle's Law is the wrong tool to use for the job, as it assumes that the very terms you're looking for are constant.
 
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