Swapping Tank Valves Yoke to DIN

[Rick Murchison]

The difference in 200 and 300 bar valves that matters to us as Scuba divers is that the 300 bar are "deeper" valves with more threads and cannot be used with a yoke, while the 200 bar can be used as either yoke (with an insert) or DIN. The "200" bar is officially rated to 232 Bar (3442 psi) but is commonly used at higher pressures by many.
The 300 bar (because of the deeper receptical and additional threads) does provide a more secure regulator/valve connection and can stand a bigger hit without damage than the 200, but I think that for Scuba regs and valves the failure points are not in the valve threads anyway, so it's overkill.
Personally I like the 200 over the 300 bar - more flexibility and fewer turns to put the regs on or take 'em off.
As for "not really a good thing to do" - I guess the translation is "We don't have the slightest idea what we're talking about when it comes to DIN valves, so we'd best discourage anyone getting them." Or maybe "If he gets a 300 bar DIN that means I'll have to buy a fill block or a DIN whip for filling his tanks... don't want to do that..."
That does bring to mind one more point in favor of the 200 vice 300 bar DIN - some fill stations in the States aren't yet set up to handle DIN, so there are fewer places you can get fills if you can't adapt to a yoke connector.
Rick

 

[Doubles]

That does bring to mind one more point in favor of the 200 vice 300 bar DIN - some fill stations in the States aren't yet set up to handle DIN, so there are fewer places you can get fills if you can't adapt to a yoke connector.
Rick

Rick makes a great point. When I bought my DIN regs and tank valves, I also ordered a DIN fill adapter which goes everywhere my tanks go. It's in the save-a-dive kit. Although I can also say that here in Florida I have never had to use it. All the shops here where I get fills all have their own DIN adapters or a true DIN fill whip.

Cheers

 

[Rick Murchison]

Just poking around I found $49 for the Pro at DiveRite Express.
Once upon a time I got a couple of OMS 200 bar with inserts for $15 each! (I hate the valves, but at that price a little aggravation can be tolerated, eh?)
Rick

 

[TeddyDiver]

There's a danger setting 300bar valve to LP tank. Some filling stations do have whips for 200 and 300bar DIN valves (In here everyone), and it's "read my lips" sure it's gonna get 300bar inside:11: How many cycles it takes before blowing:huh:

 

[realdiver7]

I use the Thermopro 200 bar DIN/Yoke insert valves for all of my steel (3442 psi) and aluminum (3000 psi) tanks. I have completely switched to using DIN first stages now. I like the flexibility of having both options, they are easy to carry, and they sell at ScubaToys for $49. No complaints at all!

 

[mike_s]

Well *IF* I had to change out my tanks, I'd go with the 200 bar (or 232bar/3442psi actual) valves. They'll handle the pressure I need and have the flexibility of both.

Having the ability to use Yoke regulators is a nice feature. Especially if you've got dive buddies that don't have DIN regulators.


Back to asking about that Sea Elite valve above. Anyone know who makes it or if it's any good?

 

[spectrum]

I just put the convertible valves up in the original post because it gave you the yoke option and met your pressure requirement. The 300 bar valve is a higher PSI vavle, but you'll never reach that with your aluminum tank.

Give some thought to your local fill stations too.

I know of 1 DIN fill whip around here. The others are all yoke. They may have 4 yoke whips and only 1 or 2 DIN fill adapters. I always run the donuts into my E-7s for fill. Gettng 6 fills would be an arguous affair with top-offs. The other upside is that by running my donuts into my valves I don't have a beat up dive shop DIN whip getting screwed into my valve. Just wanted to add to the confusion.

Pete

 

[terrasmak]

My old lds had two banks of whips , one DIN one Yoke and my convertable vales let ,me fill from either bank.